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cimo

Programmer
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Everything posted by cimo

  1. pues.. esto no nos interesa para nada, de toda forma mucha suerte con tus estudios y el asunto esta donde tendria que estar, hay todavia un forum para ello yo tambien y miles mas, que mas da? por cierto justo ayer estaba pensando que quien sabe hacer PCBs y quiere sacarse unas perras extra podria apuntarse aqui y ofrecer sus servicios simone
  2. pues... mmm mumble mumble a ver querido vladimir se supone que tendrias que haberle pedido permiso a TK ante de empezar tu negocio, asi que ya empezaste mal; sin embargo tampoco te estas enriquezendo con eso, por lo que sabemos. Si fuera en ti: 1- pararia las ventas y le escribiria a TK para saber lo que piensa el 2- entraria abiertamente en el forum, todavia estas a tiempo para ser parte de nuestra familia ;) sin ser la oveja negra o sea una de las ovejas negras por como la veo yo este es un ultimatum, o dentro o fuera.Por supuesto la mia no es un voz oficial. No se si con esto significa que vladimir ya esta mirando este forum, por si acaso, Alogic invitale aqui. saludos simone
  3. hi i got used to for any kind of info in this forum ... and it works!! so i have this friend who is a flight simulator freak! (who deosn t have a frined like that!) he s got as a present a small home made clutch if that s the name for the airplane "steerig wheel".It connects to a serial port and of course it needs some repairing and probably new pots. Does anybody know where i can find some info about the connection needed between the pc and the pots? txx simone
  4. hi i think that J... Jimp referred to MIOS debouncing i used those buttons in a modified Alesis floorboard they were the same as those ones used by Alesis and you can be sure that wi ll work in a MB without any extra debouncing hardware, to be honest i think i remember i didn t use any software debouncing either, i will check that later. simone
  5. that Glanzzinn EXTRA 3211 goes into my next conrad order..
  6. hey hey hey we don t need to freak out now and accuse anybody just because he s buying or willing to buy boards on a multiple of any number anyway since you guys took out this argument let s give yankohurta the proper explanation, SmashTV won t give out his layouts (aside because it s his own work) because there have been people series producing MBs and selling them, for example, on ebay. yanko we had a nice chat yesterday and i am sure you re an honest gut, nonetheless (does this word really mean anything?) you won t get the layouts.as dot please contact mr_kholl, if he didn t contact you yet, he may help you or just advice, he s from brasil and he got boards from ST. and, after all, i think i convinced you enough to use TKs layouts and etch, well, can i say it? use that cnc machine you have at home and make your own boards, moving the bridges to the top layer is a piece of cake. best regards to everybody Simone
  7. ST = SmashTV ;D ;D
  8. tell me it won t interfere with audio (as audible) signal and i ll buy one, this guys use to emit slightly audible frequencies, thus useless if you are using instruments simone
  9. ok here is my experience: this is for the joystick sold at conrad (the cheapest one, ps2 style) pn: 425608 open the four little brakets/legs in the bottom using a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver or similar, beware: only one chance, if you try to reopen the case again the legs will probably break. push the white plastic part apart from the metal case. inside the white part there is the black part, the spring is contained inside there there are 4 rails where the inner black plastic part moves inside the white one, in between 2 of those rails you can see a little fissure, stick the screwdriver (you need a very small one) in that fissure and push, gently the black part out of the white part, probably you ll break, if a little bit, a little pin that keeps the black part from being thrown out by the spring remove the spring and trim it so that it will be just about 5mm deep (about 1 and a half turn), this will keep the joystick free from autocentering but not wobbling put everything together, there you go simone
  10. hey those buttons are top quality small bear is the coolest diy components dealer, after ST of course. don t worry buy safe simone
  11. tell me it doesn t create sub harmonics at 20, 10 Khz etc and i ll buy one! simone
  12. ;D ;D this stuff will let set patches and combinations of inputs and outputs (in you case guitar effects) and also can be controlled via midi and therefore sequenced and synced , am i right? xcool nice one! simone
  13. i ve forgot to mention that i also liked the stiffer version, i find the encoder with the bent ring (without removing the ring) too easy to toggle and therefore more prone to be moved by accident, the pitch between encoders in my box is 25mm, even less than in the 6582. With "Voti" s encoders i didn t have the same problem, those ones are stiffer than bourne s and just bending the ring was ok for me. simone
  14. hi once again about hacking parts This time about ST encoders, i proceeded as usual to de-detent them but iwas unsure if i had to remove the copper thingy or just to cut away the small lip causing the clicky feeling.I tried both methods and as a result i had 2 encoders: that one with removed ring was stiffer (more pressure among the components), the other one easier to spin. Saturday i went to a birthday, one of those reunion of people who are used to rubber pads, encoders, buttons, etc and brought with me the 2 encoders with knob (those beloved waldorf knobs) and run a test: well the stiffer encoder beat the other one, everybody liked it better. Now first of all i d like to know your opinion, if any. Then i have a tech question: do you think that an encoder without that copper ring could fail easily? after all being without copper ring is being out of spec, and if it is stiffer is because there is more friction inside. thanks for reading simone
  15. hi let s see if they are the same: the spring in mine is contained between a bigger white piece of plastic and a black "cap" that can move vertically inside the white piece, right in the bottom of the joystick , don t ask for photos cause my camera decided to stop working without asking my permission, anyway.. removing the black part implies spoiling, if a little, some little pins that will retain the black part from "jumping off" the white part.I managed to take apart the whole thing and remove the spring but i couldn t do a perfectly clean job. I was also wondering if anybody has just shortened the spring instead removing it so that you can have a "no auto centering" joystick but still the pressure feeling of the center position. simone
  16. for the chronicle.. i ended up buying 2 "pyle pro" at ebay for 20 euros each with shipping.. i had too many projects sitting on my desk and i needed to play with my new setup (ms. pinky) last weekend... it s all good i haven t tried to play normal vinyl yet.. thanks for the info anyway simone
  17. hi and welcome aboard i am not an official voice but i can tell you you won t get those .brd easily. That said i don t want to discourage you at all, don t you have a friend in the states who can ship you, as a normal letter, the boards? simone a little edit: the .brd you can find in ucapps.de are the same sold by the european "dealer" for midibox: Mikes shop.While the boards sold by SmashTV are created and designed by a multitude of bots working secretly in Tim s backyard.
  18. hi has anybody opened the conrad joysticks to remove the spring? The ones i have are different from those pictured by Phattline, mine have the switch sitting beside (outside) the little box containing the mechanism the spring is contained in the bottom of the box and i haven t been able to reach it i would spare a broken joystick if anybody has already done that simone
  19. hola mm pues nunca utiliza un puerto COM pero adivino que sea como un puerto midi, te aparezera en el software que estes utilizando (MIOSstudio, MidiOX, MidiMonitor etc) lo eliges ya 'sta.. a ver si el amigo alogic te lo puede confirmar sabes no es que no quieran hacerlo es que no somos muchos andando por el forum en espant.. en espanol simone
  20. i was just wondering when you do NOT have ideas about KNOBS eh sure no comment once again The birth of the "Knob addict" a world wide spreading virus ;) peace simone
  21. hola mientras todo el mundo piensa que ucapps.de sea un lugar donde aprender algo de electronica, la verdad es que aqui se aprende mucho sobre las relaciones humanas (te parece una respuesta sin sentido pues...) uffff hasta aburrirme/te a) es un estereo, improbable pero posible, suelen tener 6 b) hay una pata mas solo para mejor fijacion en la pcb si le sacas una foto te comentamos algo si tienes un multimetro y algo de IQ lo podrias descubrir tu mismo saludos desde los tropicos
  22. compramos uno y le sacamos las huellas ? eeeehhh capullo de primavera, que te estamos hacechando!! que te vamos a pillar un dia veras
  23. ciao ducasuono complimenti! questo te lo porti in giappone? che casio hai utilizzato? simone
  24. jeshu... si no te lo da a ti, el pan.. dios ... estamos todos bien j++++os eh? (a ver si consiguo armar otra pelea semeologica intercontinental) amen ah perdon, la parte seria: pues el aconsejo general que se suele dar por aqui es: es normal que las primeras 4 semanas no te enteres casi de nada, nadie dijo que era sencillo! se precisa aclarar eso: es un poco incorrecto decir "utilizar el modulo ltc en vez de midi" porque el modulo ltc ofrece una interfaz alternativa (COM) a la "DIN 5 pins" pero el protocolo es lo mismo, o sea MIDI si tienes un PC (no laptop no MAC) te aconsejaria de comprarte una interfaz audio/midi PCI y olvidarte del asunto, lo haras de toda forma muy pronto, conociendo el iter tipico de un midi maniaco ;) suerte! simone
  25. "fairly young italian man got arrested while attempting to open a car door with a desoldering pump, says: <I only wanted the knobs>"
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