SLP

yep. it is. ;D I think I should better improve my poor english instead of laughing about other people speaking german as a foreign language...

what about the encoders of an old wheel-mouse? Not the ones that are used for scanning the movements of the ball, but the encoder that is connected to the wheel between the 2 mouse-buttons.

ICs plugged in the right way? Are you using the right ICs? (no joke, I once changed a 6851 with a 8580. gladly not the other way round) ICs damaged? Regulator damaged?

Vorschlag 1: Du verwendest weiterhin einfache taster, musst dann aber durch die CC werte durchsteppen. Sprich: Filtersweeps funktionieren so nicht. Vorschlag 2: Du findest kleine Drucksensoren, die Du dann anstelle der Taster unter die plastikabdeckungen setzt. So kannst du über den Druck den CC wert bestimmen. Aufwendiger, aber praktischer. Wie kannst Du es nur wagen am schier unerschöpflichen Potential der MBHP zu zweifeln? ;D Dürfte alles kein Problem sein. ... aber frag lieber jemanden der sich damit auskennt ;D

ouch... but perhaps we could misuse one of those cheap USB-SD-card-readers which you can buy everywhere.

Doesn't Sasha usually use a laser cutter for his projects?

Alright...I was just wondering where to connect VIN, and pin 10 was the only one left...

no problem,.. I read tha datasheet, so I already got that point what do you mean by that?

Thank you very much, jimp bugfight! Is is correct that I have to connect Pin 10 to VDD (VBAT)? uln.JPG

And how are you going to screw the panel to the enclosure if you eliminate the holes for the screws?

coincidence? I'd call it "soulmates" ;D

All the time since I've ever touched a soldering iron until now I've always been building things where a complete schematic was already available. And now as I need to do something *myself*, my knowledge of electronics has pretty fast reached its end. Here's my problem: I've got a simple circuit with a NE555 (timer/clock IC) and a CMOS4022 IC (8step counter). Everything is connected to a 12V battery. Now I've got 8 LED arrays that run with 12V and draw 150mA each. I want to connect each LED array to one output of my 4022. And that's the point where I need a transistor. I know of course what a transistor is and what it does, but it's not that there is just one type of transistor available. There are thousands of types. I know that I need a NPN one, but I gave up searching for the right one when I came to those characteristic curves and to several I's and U's. Including the ICEO. (what's a CEO got to do with transistors? ok - that was a joke) So,.. Does anybody know how to proceed in such cases? Or, can anyone suggest me a transistor that works in my case? thank you very much, regards, matthias

....Sold! for 6€12 to asafnetzer! bad luck socrates ;D You *should* be able to reuse the EQ-pots as they are usually linear. You won't be able to use tha faders. they're definitively logarithmic (as cimo said)

well,.. you can quite sure re-use the case. And depending on where the beer was poured over, the pots and faders *should* still work if there didn't went any beer directly into the fader-slots.

probably those: http://www.radiohm.com/switches.php?subcat=9 I'm using the same ones... and they do suck.

something not midibox based would be cheaper ;D

well, it would also be pretty easy to "decode" any 7 segment display using an eeprom. http://www.mcamafia.de/nixie/ncp_dt/nix_deco.htm this way we could also use a cheap radio-controlled digital clock and then simply replace the LED-display or LCD with nixies.

yeah.... that's the point.. ::) Unfortunately I've got *no* programming skills at all. what about a midibox based nixie-clock? ;D

exactly! I've bought them from the "nixiestore". a Lot of 20, NOS with sockets. I like the way the guys from the Sowjet Union just turned the "2" 180° to make a "5" ;D the only "simple" designs I've found for complete DIY (open schematic, etc) are working with a 1Hz clock source and several 4017 CMOS chips to divide the clock signal and control the MPSA42 transistors. http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/nixclock.html and that's a german one with easy to understand schematics: http://www.mcamafia.de/nixie/ncp_dt/ncp.htm

Awesome clock! :o I've got to say that I'm a bit of a clock fetishist, too. at the moment I'm planning a Nixie-clock. (just in case any one is looking for some sowjet IN-12B Nixies with sockets, I've got some spares I can sell)

Awesome :o btw.: In the last picture I saw your "toolbox". I think I've got the same one. They are pretty cheap and low-quality. I've got them always with me just in case I've got to repair something just before a gig. The problem is the rubber coating of the tongs. AFAIK those are often made with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), that cause cancer when they penetrate the skin. That's why I've put some sticky tape around the handles. ...just FYI... :)

nice stuff :)

By "existing chips" you mean the original/old ones that were in the mixer when I bought it, right? Anyway, thank you very much for this information! :) I can't imagine what would have happened in case I'd have connected all 3 tabs together ::) yes, of course. That was the first thing I've tried, but thi doesn't work when the pins are broken directly at the housing. It would have been possible if there would be one or two mm of the original pin remaining. Anyway, thank you very much, guys :)

äh... also ich weiß jetzt nicht ob ich Deinen Gedankengang richtig verstanden habe, aber es geht hier *prinzipiell* nicht um Widerstände die sich ändern, sondern um Spannungsteilern, also das Wichtige ist hier das Verhältnis der Widerstände zwischen dem Abgreif-pin und jeweils den End-pins. von daher ist es *eigentlich* keine große sache jetzt 5 statt 10 KOhm zu verwenden. ....glaube ich ;D ...

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