tos

Ok, so here is the idea: you can take some old turntable, fixate it's Platter and make a hole for a mouse optics, stuff all that inside and then put some old record ontop and sratch away. I neeed that mouse interface. Hope it's doesn't need an extra CORE and can be implemented within existing projects [i'm shooting at MB64e here :) ] Ad how come I've stumbled upon this tread this late....hm....must be some of that evil Microsoft influence.

So, I hope that all of you saw Infinium noncontact faders. Nice piece of hardvare and fairly expensive. How about we make a replic? What most of us have layin' around? Mouses...and even if we dont they are quite inexpensive thiese dayz. I think I've seen some [chinese crap probably] optical ones in computer stores for 3-5 euros. Laughable. Idea A for this we would reqire: nice gear-wheel binded with the encoder axel of mouse straight geared line (quite frankly I dont know the english term for this) And offcourse a fine casing[/ul] Idea B Now here we've got a nice idea but: how exactly does the optical mouse works(I'll get my hands on one of thiese one of thiese dayz) what chip to use & how to read the values And offcourse a fine casing[/ul] Suggestions, "u r nuts", ideas, improovments.... dev-optofader 1.GIF

Sorry, this is a bit offtopic but wouldn't it be possible to feed the CORE with, let's say, 16V? I see that TS7805 can get up to 35V fed.

Why [tha hell] do we need all that ground pins & wires?! We can just ground the ground from the core to the casing and do the same with dout/din/ain/lcd/etc...

Midi as mixer/sratch pad

That's why we need a Intranet MBHP module and OSC Support. [just ignore this one, OK :-P ]

Oh, no, It's just that not every PC PSU outputs the Voltage as declared, this one had 22,5 on the connector wich means that the actual output vas +11.25/-11.25 instead of 12.

TK maybee you should add to the MIDI debuging guide a pover supply check. It seems to me that PSu is a "troublemaker" with many failed MIOS uploads. Just something like: "Check the voltage on J2, if it is ______V than everything should be ok with your PSu."

And, we don't like that, right. Soo are those trackballs mechanical? Let me tell you something about mech-track-balls [second option is optical]. Ever since I've bought mie first PC I use trackballs. First one was Genius trackball [mechanical offcourse since back then there were no optics yet(God of electronics, bless them)]. The neat problem with mechanical TBalls is cleaning. You see on mechanical mouse you have a rubber surfaced ball [wich is robust by itself] and the traction is transmited to the plastical axels. To clean them we usually just scrape them [using nail, screwdriver, boxcutter]. With trackballs the ball is [well, mine is] made of some kind of ceramic or nonscratch plastic and traction is applied to the tiny-little-cute-rubber-cover on some kind of axel. Cleaning those biøtchez once-a-week is a real pain in the ass. Too often you might say, nooo, I'm not that neat, I [as most people do] clean mie user input devicec once the fail to do the input correctly. And this one did got messed up once per week. Hope that u don't get that issues. [PS: I'm now proud owner of optical trackball and the old one is getting the mushroom treatment as it deserves(stoopeed genius)]

It occused me of SPAMMING!!! I can't put this on my userspace wiki page: {{http://www.freewebs.com/tosys/root/tos.gif}} Who should I contact 'bout this?

DavidB, u can't go trough life that way. Not everyonr is like that.

I can't donate, I don't have credit card, but, I will put it on a TODO list, let's say 5e 4 TK @least. TK, you r the man.

dont touch them. They r lovely. Or you can saw them down, cut out one piece and then make a hole in a handle and put a screw+glue to hold it together. I hope you get this.

Bought the freaking batteries, fixed one bad soldering issue and flashed, verified...let's power the core. BTW: I've found out that alcatel charger declared as 12V has 16V output :-\ And I've "invested" batteries that won't b used ever again(instead of buying 2 pots). Thnx ppl for helping out.

Sooo, anyone knows the thrills of going out on saturday evening/night and buying batteries (on the flow)? Fun fun fun. Anyway, I was stuck with this problematic idea of mine: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=6906.msg44302#msg44302 Now It's solved, I have flashed the PIC and am moving on to powering my CORE and uploading mios. EDIT: MIOS uploaded. I'm powering the core with PC's +5V works fine.

Just stumbled upon this ...err... thingy....LOOOVELY!!! Gotta tell you, you should'we make those scratch-encoders bigger. I know I would. Anyway, really nice job with Light-buttons

Like the joysticks, small, hard to move them unintentionally. The faders are (IMHO)to high from the FPannel. Nice casing, really nice & clean.

Heh, yesterday I almost made a new tread about OSC. I wrote about i screen of text and then trashed it. TK/stryd_one: you should be able to tell us, how hard(in exp. and money units) is to make a Ethernet module for MBHP? Osc would be an interesting stuff to play with (ex. Traktor 2 can control other Traktor via OSC)(I'm kinnda Traktor oriented) Let's say that there is no other way of reading if some pushbutton [that acts as toggle in app] is down or not [so you could control a led associated with it], this way, you must assume their initial state and then just toggle leds intuitively, there is some more stuff but this troubles me @ the moment.

@stryd_one: What do you mean after the recitifier? Like, to bypass it? I wasnt lefting the recitifier out, it was connected to ~ pins Yeah, tnx Michael, I've read that somewhere but this is the only [reusable] power source that I could find and not pay for it. :-)

Ouch, i jus saw the price, but i like ittttt. Just imagine stuffing that screen in the middle, sorround it wth pots/sliders/encoders and than you can have multiple presets. Like sifferent screen controls setup + diferent kontrol midi messages for every setup. I know it is possible withouth the Lemur but you can write on screen what pot does what... Ouww, the idea is to good it hurts. If I'd find someone to buy/sponsor such device (from me) so I could just build it. Now I know what I'll ask 4 the next christmas.

What else than ___x4 boards. If I ever get the need for more components I'll just stuff more IC's. -AIN moule needs shorts to the GND to avoid random readings "out of thin air". -DIN needs no short circuiting bkz data is all on one bus, just need to adjust the number of reads from DIN. -DOUT needs nothing if i'm right Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd b glad to do a page on wiki user space. The downside is that I dont have the digital camera (only the Phone T610) but I can alwas contribute th community with solutions and new research.

Huh, oook, actually it is exactly 22,5V but ok, I'll try wth the batteries. Makes sense. I checked the active components today, they show fine state....we'll see if batts do the trick. Orderlist: This is where I got the 22V idea please change this line in mbhp_burner_orderlist.txt if it is not correct to feed so much Voltage to the burner.

I'm planing a Traktor 2/3 controller with: ~22 Pots/faders ~30 Pushbuttons/switches 2 Encoders built from mouse wheel & n LEDs [this will be decided later] That should be CORE+AIN+2*DIN+DOUT Question: -Should I use a MB64 as a jump start and code my way out [i intend to optimise code because there is no need to scan non-existing buttons/pots] -Is there any special wireing (as with DIN) if I dont intend to use all ICs on DIN/DOUT? -I intend to use this post as a build-blog for this project, is it ok with you?

No, PSu is from an old P1 and burner is plugged in my new PC. The power connection for AT motherboards have gnd,gnd,+12,-12,+5,+5 on one of the conecctors [there is two] so I used +12v and -12V. A shortcut...I doubt, bkz, when the burner aint connected to the LPT the PC ps works fine and I can adjust the woltage & stuff, but when I connect it to the LPT it dies. BTW: What are the odds that some TR or C is fried? I mean there was some large current going trough that pcb line (thats why it fried (it's quite thin))

Burner: hand made, on a etched pcb(ordered from a local etcher) Power suply: 22V from a PC AT power supply [+12/-12] What happened: I connected the power supply to BURNER and trimmed the voltage to 12.5V +/- 0.03. Then I [literary] plugged the burner to LPT and got some fireworks. Dunno what happened. FWrks came from a pcb line that connects the far out power pin to the recitifier so I got that fixed by hard wireing and now what do I get. I plug-in the burner into LPT [green LED on] and turn on the power supply, the green led dimms, PSu's fan starts and then just stops [it's like the short circuit protection] I'm getting thiese results with and without the 74HC14 plugged in. Can anyone help me, I don't know what I may have fried, why did this happened or what to do, what to unsolder, check, replace...etc. Tnx ppl. [i intend to post my Frontpannel design thiese days, just to get this pic flashed and test the whole setup, hope to get this enigma solved soon.]