tos

For that 3-state/4-state/n-state button you can use a 3/4/n possition rotary switch in conjuction with resistors: .--------.--[R10k]-. vcc--->| switch |--[R5k]--|-->to AIN `--------'---------'

Three cheers for audiocommander, the smoothest solution [ever, I think].

transport controls do not necessarily need to be duplicated - true, but please do her a favour and make at least two transports, while on stage you do need at least two transports. I will be tweaking mb64 app to support my idea of switching one trasnport set among n players(i.e. left transport set can be switched between players A & C and right between B & D). Switcing of active deck can be achieved via pushbuttons[each for one deck, on cycle], selection via pot is not implemented yet. You can make midibox show you the last pressed button but the problem is that thiese leds won't b updated if you change focus in traktor. [T3 still does not support sending MIDI messages, only clock and OSC but I think I've read somewhere that they plan to implement it] 1: multi purpose buttons. Problem is that MB only can intuit @ what state is current deck 2: Choosing pots vs encoders. If you plan to, like kontrol two decks with one set of pots (ie one line of eq Knobs) it is better to use encoders as even if traktor would be abel to send you the status of eq on change of active deck, you'd still need a motor-pots. Use encoders, they are relative. [is anyone saying nondetended pots and diff value??] encoder for pitch bend is almost a must, your choice is what will you attach to it, a wheel or dial or something worse, heehe. U can add pitch bend buttons to that [only T3 i think] bkz Traktor can bind multiple inputs to one virtual control/button/whatev. My advice is to build one small, "joystick" with 2-4 100k lin/log pots, 2-4 buttons, download mjoy.exe joystick to MIDI konverter and test all of the controls in traktor that you are unsure of the way they can be controlled.

Khm, khm...C128 user here, I built my MB into the C128D case and have a detachable keyboard with....so to speak....too many pins[D-SUB 25]. Any hope I might connect this somehow and not bloat my MB with extra DINx3+1?

The beauty: [link]http://www.mackie.com/home/showimage.html?u=/products/d2/images/d2_crossfader_lg.jpg[/link]

David, you are one of those people that just don't listen. He asked for info about what dj mixer is using a linear fader and you are talking to him as with a newbie, giving him Mushroom Treatment. Conrad delivery to the country that Sasa and me are living is ~20-30€ And, me too would pay for a normal xfader rather than use crappy radiohm. You talk like you never worked with a mixer, the xfader should move if you blow some air at the handle. If you don't have the answer, don't answer.

Wow, just stumbled upon this tread. I was about to suggest the female usb connector for goose-neck lamp as those are easier to find and probably cheaper. Second, kill switches that Rogic mentioned can be worked out via: - software (in your MIOS app) - hardware (toggle push switch that would connect the gnd to the corresponding pot's "output pin") I'd go with the (simple software sollution) About those buttons and frontpannel and...well...everything: Prrrrrrr.

nifty....but i have bigger plans(that probbably aren't gonna see the daylight bkz of the amount of work that I have). Anyway, look at the Pioneer DJM-909 to get the idea.

Errrr, why not write a simple PDA app that holds all of the bitmaps or at least optimizes the drawing so you don't have to send(and store on PIC) whole image via serial?

I just roughly tested output of electro-motor from an old SONY Discman. When i spin it with my hand i can get +/- 0.6V. How about using something like this for scratch input [instead of optical mouse reading, encoder input] would anybodey be kind enough to help me develop a circuit between a motor and AIN. As much as I guess it could be done using some sort of comparator circuit and a x15-x20 amplifier. But what it would actually need, I don't hane an idea. conception: -when motor is not moving, the ain is fed with 2.5V (at least I have such need) -when motor starts moving, the voltage on it's output is amplified by 15-20 times (min/max 0V/5V) -since it is a simple discman application, it can simply be used with some cd that is broken. Will someone help me with this? I will assemble a circuit (as long as it is not too expensive or complicated) and test/document this application(if it get's working) once I have circuit on paper that has a chance of doing something.

??? I'm not sure it will work, What about the situation when you release the touchpad and it gets back to (0,0) Latch will pick that up too. The real way is to use another layer of some conductive surface (eg. Al foil) and connect it as a touchsensor. That way you can detect touch and start recording the values to PICs RAM.

neodjandre, if you need some help with Traktor+MB Let me know. If you have some "ideas" let me know. If you need ideas...well, you are on the right place.

Try with some of LCD control programs....they might have a preview. Use mios studio.

I like the layout & it has that industrial-look. Just....too much wasted surface on front pannel (in the corners). Lovely toy!!

Looks like youre core gets rebooted while uploading update. It is either that or a semi-bad wire-ing/cabling. About your pic id I'm not sure but it looks to me it is "1", you can find on the forums that info.

[volt]=[amper]*[ohm]

Shall I post the pdf?

DIN x 4 Or DIN times four.

But, it is not a nessesity. Works this way. Oh and by the way: R=U/I

It is simple and easy. Using software solution would lead to: -basic reprogramming -another row of dout-s [for showing states] -more wires from core. [heh, like that ever represented a problem] I'd go with software solution. Otherwise, you have a schematic in one of my prevoius posts. I'm not sure about one thing, if you set the encoder to some higher sensitivity there is possibility that you get a increase or decrease by one unit when you switch on/off a channel.

It aint that hard, ju just connect some pot...wires...ain...core and there you are. Anyway, AIN - Analogue INput is used to connect pots(10KOhm), DIN - Digital INput is used for pushbuttons, buttons, switches & encoders. With AIN there is a problem if you leave connection open(, flying, unclosed circuit) bkz chip suceeds to read a resistance value that aint there and problem is that the reading is different every time(so you just get a bunch of random readings via MIDI).

If I'm on the right track you need double, twostate switches. EDit: If you are really mad you can use some perverted switches that are like 3-state and connect like this: 1. all off 2. din1 -> bit1; din2 -> bit2 3. din1 -> bit2; din2 -> bit1 Then you can select what control is beeing increased and which one is decreased. I've done something similar with one pot that is producing two separate midi messages which are then controlling two sliders [wet & dry] connection.GIF

I have made a vectorised version, with minor difference, marked #1 pin. Artesia, may I post this rewised version to public (in pdf format)? Sneak peek:

Can't wait to see test results.

Binary...hehe....i liike binary....