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Whoops, I may have mislabeled. I can assure you that it is producing the +-12 though.

Here is the schematic of this particular circuit. It does not include the capacitors to keep it more simple. Though the pointless fork may confuse you, it's just there for the sake of the capacitors which aren't included. So you can see that on AC line is directly taken as GND. Is that kosher?

No I have not tried that. Is this a good thing or a bad thing? Also I am worried about grounding my +-12v power supply to my case, it's a Canakit where the middle gnd appears to be one of the AC lines. This does not seem kosher to me, but I have no idea about such a thing. I can't find a picture, but will take on this evening, someone on this page recommended it. It doesn't require a center tap and it uses a 7912 and a 7812. I can make one of my own if I have to, does anyone have a schematic? I have a transformer with two separate 15vAC and I have a single 24vAC I can use. I want to get this thing working finally, I feel very lazy for not playing with the actual synth yet. Too much troubleshooting. Also, would it be bad news if I applied power to the amps without the 5v being on?

How could such a large ground difference happen though? I have them plugged into the exact same outlet. Would it be better if I connected my GND to my metal case? This in turn is connected to the GND of the outlet.

They're not using the same power supply, but I don't really think there's anything I can do about that. My FM does not supply 120V AC, and so I'm pretty stuck on that part.

No, that' can't be. My outputs are RCA and they're very straight forward in regards to the audio pinning.

But strangly it works when I plug it directly into small speakers (except that there isn't much audio mind you).

Hey, I got a mixer and every-time I plug the audio cables into the mixer my MIDIBOX FM shuts off. If I pull them out again it turns back on. Is this an electrical issue? I'm not sure what kind of problem there might be.

Weird, I had it installed already, I guess it's default in this version. Thanks for the link though! Very helpful.

my switches are schadow to, thanks, i'll look for it EDIT: do you know the name of the plug in? I didn't see anything that sounded like the module you mentioned.

Well, I was going to, but I realized that if I were to make a 4x8 (or more) grid it will max out the vero that I have available to me. But I have some blank copper-clad that would be larger and might work better.

Anyone know how I can get an eagle library for something like these? I think it's going to make my life easier if I make a PCB.

More images

I was hesitant about making a SEQ because of the buttons, but I just found what I need in the scrap pile! Woo, buttons and panel mount midi connectors! Looking good now!

Still nothing?

2 for me

Please do give an update, these are very good looking buttons and I might be very interested if they're as good as they look.

How much did you get these buttons for ?

That's nonsense! "1" seems to mean jumper on to me! Well if it's opposite day I guess I'll leave it! Thanks!

So we have to cut the jumpers if we have no eeprom correct? WOndering if anyone has done this yet. I've built mine and it still connects to the computer even if in "eeprom" mode without a stuffed eeprom. Will it not actually send data though?

Hey, I got my package (sometime last week) and I've assembled it. Noticed that it had a 5v in. Is this actually necessary? It looks as if it's actually forcing bus powered usb anyhow (not jumper). I'd like to know if I might have issues if I want to go 100% bus powered.

This is fair enough, you're right. I suppose also it's not even to do with Wilba's thing, but the ultracore. Someone previously suggested to Wilba to add space for the USB port and the GM5. But supposing that it is indeed closed source, and scarce, it's not the best idea. Just giving my two cents, but I guess I lost .015$ of them by making a dumb suggestion. Ah well.

I got some very cheapo laser printer paper from Staples and it works fine! I've even done double-sided boards and they work perfectly, but you may screw up a few times over and have to clean it up and redo it. After 2-3 you get the hang of it. This method can be detailed enough to do SMD spacing even as I've tried it. I find 5-10 minutes at least. Buy some nail polish if you need to touch up any errors where it peels off.

Just to put in my two cents, could actually having a GM5 be cheaper and more space saving than all those IIC modules? For sure people would have to do some SMD, but it's good for the constitution. Which is why I tried to make my mistake of buying TSSOP 74hc195 chips into a whole SMD project! It works!

Thanks for the suggestions! I have no use for holes myself. But that's just the way I've been mounting my boards, as well as just how I've been using my banksticks. I just twist wire around them to secure them inside my case. I saw you board, but it's very complicated, with two sides. I don't need the plugs or anything like that. I figured if people want a dead-simple small bankstick they can use mine, or not. In my own experience, it's worth it to take the few hours to make a board though, I was having quite a time with my last stick that was a rats nest proto board. Figured it might help someone else.