LaRssA

yay! my kits were in the mail the other day, so I've started soldering :D

That's true, Huck... Anyway, since I don't know that system, I'm suggesting that you compensate for all the cut-outs manually. Just fool the machine to make it 3mm bigger in each direction so the final result will be correct. You won't have to think about this for the 3mm holes, since they are being drilled. Lars

ah, so that's it... I'm used to work with G-codes for the different macros.. same shit, different wrapping ;)

Hi! I haven't been doing any solidcam before, sorry... Only EdgeCAM and Solidworks for milling in 3D. Anyhow - I checked out your code, and it seems to me like it's missing indeed. It also looks like your milling machine are using a different control-system then what I'm used to. I have just about only worked with FANUC, and there are some things I'm not quite sure what does in your code (B4): % G90 G71 G99 T2 S100 M3 <--The code suggests 100rpm, even though your video shows more. 3mm tool in aluminium can be run at 5000 rpm, if the machine can handle it. You can use A LOT of speed here, and a lot of coolant. (Did I mention coolant?) M7 G0 X54.483 Y54.053 Z10. Z2. G1 Z-0.5 E330 <---I'm not sure what the E does, that's why I don't think this is the FANUC-standard I know. X217.932 F1000 G2 X219.407 Y52.578 I0. J-1.475 G1 Y0. G2 X217.932 Y-1.475 I-1.475 J0. G1 X0. G2 X-1.475 Y0. I0. J1.475 G1 Y52.578 G2 X0. Y54.053 I1.475 J0. G1 X54.483 G0 Z10. G0 Z50. G0 X0. Y0. M5 M9 M30 % If you can find out this for me, I can check around for proper coding... On FANUC, you insert the tool radius as a value (either on the machine or in the CAM-software), and just include G41 X-value Y-value as the final line. It will then move up until the X and Y, compensating for the tool radius, and you can use the finished values as your X and Y without thinking of the tool radius. Lars

Hi Kartoska! I used to work as a CNC-miller... I might be a bit rusty, but I was pretty much hardcore at EdgeCAM and Solidworks in my day... Depending on the machine language you are using, check the CNC-code for the following code after the tool moves down on the Z-axis.. It should have "G41" when it moves in X or Y after that... That's the code for tool-compensation (left side.. G42 is right, and G40 cancels it) If it's not there, check your CAM-software. You are supposed to be able to add compensation there before compiling the code. Or you could add it manually if you know enough CNC to know the compensation-syntax. Regarding the cutting - I've done some panels myself, and it's a bitch to get it 100%... I'm assuming it's aluminium, so here's a few tips: - Use a tool with two cutters (this can also be used as a drill, but I'm guessing you know this already) - Use really high rpm, and a low feeding - Use A LOT of coolant. Not only will it help to cool it of, but it will help you remove flakes, and stop the tool from being packed. Since it's aluminium, the melting-temperature is really low, so if it gets too hot, the flakes will be packed around the tool, and it'll break. Also, use a steady tool-holder and make sure the plate is clamped really good and tight. Clamping it on a piece of PVC also work really good. You might even mill it in parts to make sure it's clamped good enough... Looks to me like you have "edges" after you've finished milling.. That's cause you spread it around like butter instead of actually cutting it. I might be wrong on this, though.. just looks like it. Let me know if I can be of any more help, and good luck! :) Lars

Hei! Har ikke sjekket ut de nordiske forumene enda ;) Jeg venter på resten av delene til å bygge 2stk MB-6582... Gleder meg til å komme i gang! Dette blir mine første MIDIBox byggeprosjekt. Lars

I got mine today.. Thanks! :)

I received mine today. Thanks a lot! :) Lars

hmm... I'll have to check this out for myself when I get them. It's a shame to put so much work into something that doesn't look right in the end in my opinion!

Hey! I'll be in for 2 kits with PICs. I'm also interested in 2 CS-kits whenever they will become available. (hoping we can pick the LED-color when ordering?? ..and that you talk to Wilba, so we don't get two of some parts, that's already in a bulk-order..) Lars

I'm also in on a couple..

Count me in for two sets!

I am an educated CNC miller... I know what a pain in the ass it is to make this kind of product... I'll be more then happy to pay the price mentioned!!!! I really mean it... you'll have to try it yourself to know... using a CNC milling machine for this is hell on earth... I hope the companies focusing on front panels use other ways to create them... which they probably do (did someone say laser-cutting?).. which is probably why they cost more then your avarage milling-job... the price aren't bad...

nice! let us know when you are taking orders... I'm in for two of each..

I see your point with the bright blue LED's.... But green or yellow LED's + matching screen would be of my interest then... (I'm colorblind, so I'm having a bit of a problem sometimes with red LED's in bright rooms.. that's why I liked those blue one's :P) So green or Yellow PLED-like time two for me!

if we're able to get those bright blue LED's that Wilba used on his original one, I want that negative blue one as well... ;)

Didn't I read somewhere about kits from SmashTV for the 6582? Or am I remembering wrong? anyway... if they won't include the LCD, I'm in for two (2)! Wilba, can you confirm that this model will work? I'm pretty sure, but doesn't hurt to ask ;) Lars

I bought one a little while ago directly from pactec with express shipping to Norway.. total was about $45 I think. But I've decided to build two of these bad boys, so I'm down for one also, if it's cheaper!

They are $20 each. Please PM Wilba and ask if there's any left of the spare-boards.

My motive is world domination... I've made this plan: 1. Pretend I am an OK guy on midibox.org, and then.. 2. Build Wilba's MidiBOX SID 3. ....... 4. WORLD DOMINATION!!! MUHAHAHHAHAHAHAAHAH *evil laugh*

Cool, looks pretty nice! Congratulations! :D Lars

I've got 12 SID's at the moment (4 more is on the way...) The reason for getting this many is trying to get the best matches as possible... Meaning I may have some left over when I'm done! :) Lars

I'm down for the front panel as well...! larssa (at) gmail (dot) com

I've checked about every possibility, and some say they sell it, but their out of stock... Allthough, I found a site stating that PLED-displays is going to be discontinued all over the globe, and every piece of information leads in that direction.... Don't know why, though... But good luck trying to get one! And please let me know if you find a source! Lars

ok, final post for today.... http://www.matrixorbital.ca/Members/Nick/pled I've checked around, and everything leads to this information... PLED technology will be discontinued all over the globe (don't ask why). So I guess the question is.. can the PSU handle a backlit LCD in addition to the 8xSID configuration? are there any other cool displays we can use instead? If Wilba is going to change the layout etc. anyway, it might be an idea to find a replacement-display so everything will fit nicely together... Any ideas/thoughts/comments? Lars