lief138

Bwaa get the bleach... bahhhh!!!!!!

Hey dude, if your going to build a fatman, go for the panel mount version and make sure to check out Scott's site with lots of mods to make the fatman a 3/4 ways decent jammie. It will give you lots of modding practice and additonal functions http://home1.gte.net/res0658s/fatman/index.htm

Have you been to Smashtv's website? http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/buy.html You will still need to get SIDs, best bet look in the group buy section for Wilba's SID sale. If you are just interested in the sound and you have a computer that can send MIDI you can be in biz for less than $100 You can make the case for free if your crafty but for the full blown MB6582 you will spend $500+ Your best bet would be to read much more. After you can answer the question of what modules you will need you will have a better idea of what your going to spend. Also as other have said a million times your case and control surface are going to eat up the most of your money. If you you want it to be pretty its going to cost lots.

You need three hands or a soldering clamp thingy like the third thing down in this link http://www.mediacollege.com/misc/solder/accessories.html or a weight to hold the solder in place... or perhaps a small animal that is well trained....

Sorry dude, your probably not going to see that in 09 either

OK Phil, You make a good point, plus ou prob know what your talking about. I spent a coulpe minutes minutes looking and found this http://pinouts.ru/Motherboard/MbCpuFan_pinout.shtml Then I got to looking more and see that some people choose to run their fans on 7V to make them quiter. So I will just plug 9V into the 12V pin and see what happens. I will prob get a chance to check it out tonight as I had company over last night. Thanks for the advice. As we find whereas and suchforth and likesuchas a little googling goes a long way...

OK Everyone knows I ask dumb questions so here is another one. I finally got around to picking up a fan with LED for the box. It has 3 wires. I assume that since its a computer fan it wants 12V and the led is going to want 5V. I assume the fan would be ok with the 9V that goes to the SIDs. but I guess I am wondering were other people plug the fan in. Ok thanks in advance Lief

Hey Werlin, I’ve been around here for a bit but still consider myself a bit noobish. I will tell you now that if you really need some help you are going to have to demonstrate to people here that you have done your reading. However the link you have provided contains all the info you need. I know because I have followed those same instructions and was able to get the keyboard working np. You will need to get the parts. I would suggest going to SMASHTV's website and buying a core kit and LCD at least, If you bought a din and dout kit, and some ribbon cable/headers you would have everything major you need to get this project going. You might even be able to work out a special order with smash for just the parts you need but I don’t know too much about that. You would want an LCD for testing, look around here for all the info you need to pick the right one. Here is the link to smash's store http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/buy.html Everyone buys from him and he is very professional. Good luck with the keyboard. Not only might you find it is useful for your needs but also that if you get the c64 for cheap you get a cheap case with lots of buttons for your controller but also a free SID chip for your next project ;) Have fun Lief

Yeah Dude, I had the same problem when I was getting the MB-6582 setup. If I cranked the mixer up all the way I could hear it way deep down there. The problem turned out that I was an idiot and never gave power to the sid chips. I would say to quad-drupal check all the power to make sure, if that is not it I have no idea. Either way good luck

All this talk of newspeak and no one has mentioned the boot yet.... shame shame... "If you want a picture of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face—forever"

I got 6 chickens. The eggs taste good.

Hey Dude, I think you did a great job, for whats worth. You ended up fixing the issue with help from the usual suspects. I have had problems with just about every project I am up to but people around here help out alot. Specially if you listen to what they say. I want to tell you to keep up the spirit of salvaging stuff. Give the old junk a new life. Your efforts will keep that stuff from poisoning the planet for a bit longer plus save you some loot. Alot of people around here make such nice looking boxes, I hope that doesnt discourage the dude that makes ugly box out of someone elses trash that rocks just as hard... I am still trying to take my own advice... Ill shut up now.

You might need to scroll down http://www.mpja.com/email/10-28-08.asp?r=CL288315#13680+pa MFG: LEADER P/N: A4809100T Input: 120VAC/60Hz Output: 9VAC @ 1A Specifications/Features: AC OUTPUT Plug transformer.3 blade input, 6ft. output cord with 3 Pin mini DIN connector. UL/CSA listed. Price: $ 0.99 Availabilty: In Stock Units: 200 you would still need to cut the plug off. but for a buck thats cheap power for a core. Stryd and cimo say its for wimps. Well that not exactly what they said but somethign like that.... Hopefully this helps someone. Lief

Well I would go in on the group buy. At next month I would organize it if people are interested. Umm the stay puft hasn't shown up yet so Ill definitely not cross the streams... I can see full on might not be appropriate at all times.. its hard though because it goes against my personal philosophy "why kill when you can overkill?" or "why eat a hamburger when you can eat the hell out of a hamburger?" or the recently dropped "why show up late for work when you can never show up at all?" OK well lets see what we can do about those pots? Thanks for all the info people

My problem is Im pissed off at this point as I just ordered the pots from mouser along with a couple other things I needed for another project and when I got done spending $2.5 each (when Im used to paying $.5 each) get them home and realize I made the mistake I was warned about and got the big ones. They dont come close to fitting. Now with nothing else immediately needed I dont want to spend the extra 7 dollars for shipping as I hate the idea of 4 pots costing me $30+. My new question is why cant you just use a normal pot and solder two wires (1 from both SID) to each lug? If this wont work I a dug up some 3 position dpdt switches (on-off-on) I was planning on having up be all on, down go through 250K resistor and center obviously off. Perhaps Ill do this until I come across the right sized pots.

I got lots of switches and not a single daul ganged pots. I figure it would be the same as if I switch the jumpers of from on to off. I like the full feedback on sound. Do other people tend to tweak those knobs regularly? Does anyone have a compelling reason why one might not want to do this? Also what about some rotary switches in there? I have some of those that would fit also. I figure it would be kind like a pot if I used different resistors? Im just looking for some feedback from the cool kids.... ok I guess the un-cool kids could pipe up also ** Lief

Well never mind. I uploaded the program again and this time it said 'C64 Keyboard test' which is much more like it. Then I pounded on the old c64 keyboard and strange and wonderious letters started revealing some kind of secret code on my LCD. Ha worked the second time. Thats not bad given my track record. Now to figure out somethign cool to do with it.

Hi Folks, I put together the circuit describe on the wiki for the midiboxKB http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midiboxkb_-_using_a_c64_keyboard_as_input#midiboxkb And I loaded the program onto the core (which works fine) and after the upload -smart upload says "Upload process complete" The LCD is blank. It says all the MIOS stuff before hand... http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?id=midiboxkb_-_using_a_c64_keyboard_as_input&cache=cache&media=kb:c64-keyboard-test-v2.zip I have tried with and without the additonal circuit connected to the core. Either way nothing n the display and nothing happens when I press keys on the keyboard. Im expecting something to happen. I would be ok with the idea that I did something wrong with the circuit but my main question is am I expecting anything on the LCD when I turn it on? Thanks Lief

Frailn Well if you are not in too much of a rush things work out. My 2 chips came today. What a long wait but you notice how no one freaked out or anything. I think my package was in the same box as wilba's package ;) OK thanks for the chips dude. Lief

Hi People, I am almost there with my wilbabeast. I just seem to be having one or possibly 2 more issues that I was hoping someone could help me with. 1) All leds will light up except the sync (above the lcd). I assume it would light up as I could get the other 3 leds to light up. Do I need to do anything special to make it light up and if not any ideas why it wouldnt light up. I double checked that it is oriented the correct way. Can I test it to see if it works while its still connected? 2) It seems as though the top left switch for the matrix is not working. I say this because when I push it the top horizontal row does not light up. When I press any of the bottom switches of the matrix the lleds light up as expected including the top row. I have confirmed that all other switches function as expected. I am trying to avoid unsoldering if possible, not because Im lazy just because I want to avoid the possibility of damaging something. Anyone have any ideas? Also so far thanks to wilba and nils and bugfight who have been keeping my on track and sane... Dont think I forgot TK and everyone else who helped make this real. I just want to do that thanks at the right time... Thanks Lief

So I havnt received my chips yet either. Im in US so I figured I would get them early on. Just making sure nothing odd happened with my package? Lief

do a search, it has to do with LCD i think it has to do with 8 bit mode or something, I think its for a jumper point and not a part.... I know I read about it in the past..

Good Sweet Mother of God! Sids work alot better when they get power. Core 1 and 2 loud and clear. I couldnt wait to test the last two before I told people what a fool I am. Either way dont forget the jumpers! OK Thanks for the troubleshooting Wilba.

OK unfortunatly I am work now again, but.... I used power supply option A I didnt put any jumpers on the board at all with the exceptions of the feedback jumpers becasue I do not have the pots yet. When I measured the power I touched the J1_SID1 9V pin and the ground pin ofJ? in the power supply area. and yeah I meant J2_SID1 So Now I am feeling extremely stupid because I did not put those jumpers on. I can understand now that obviously the jumper would pick which power actually went into the SID, so if you had the PS option for both 9 and 12 you would just change out the caps and swap that jumper to change out for the 6581... Well now Im thinking about going home sick ;) I will let you know asap if this was the problem. Also, I am going to go back and figure out what part of the instructions I ignored. Thanks a million Lief

OK I loaded the testtone on to each core. I was able to hear the tone from the 8 and 27 pins load and clear on each sid socket. I put back in the two sids and measured the 9V on J1_SID1 and J2_SID2 and got 9.3V. I still do not get the tones from either sid? I reloaded the setup_mb6582.hex and I can still hear the sounds. I have also confirmed that I am getting the sounds from both left and right so it seems both sids still work? I have failed in my mission to get another 7809 today. My place had none.... I also checked with another c64 power supply and still have the same issue Any other ideas????