lief138

Oh Im not hating or anything. The brute force comes in the form of cutting the resistor network or in your case bending it back and forth until it breaks. At that point using the solder iron will be a piece of cake to get each leg out. I was just trying to say that one should not be affraid of pulling the pad as that will result in not doign anything. Plus I would guess that lots of people besides myself have done so at some point and I would also guess that what ever they were working on is not dead as a result (hopefully). But you are right about all that you said and much more elegent than my description. Either way homeboy should get on the good foot and get it done. And lastly I was just trying to tell him not to be affraid of effing it up as it wont really be broke.

Dont be affraid, Even if you damage the pads (which sucks) you can always conenct a piece of wire or something. Just cut one pin at a time. Youll be fine. Once you break it and fix it again, youll be that much better! I can talk as I have pulled more than one pad in my day...

it would be hard to get that part off in one piece. Just get brute force on it and cut the black part off with wire cutters then you can heat up each whole and pull the pins out one at a time with plyers. You can always get another piece or even some regular resistors to replace that. Right?

russian nukes

Im Just now reading this and although its late I thought that I would add that I too had the same problem. It turned out that I was "Daft as shit" and actually missed soldering 2 pins when making the cable connections. After wasting a bunch of time (maybe 2 days tring all sorts of stupid stuff) I finally got serious with the multimeter and found the problem in a couple minutes... Dont be daft as shit like me and use the heck out of your multimeter. Ill go back to my cage now.

Baby, you make me wish I had 3 hands!

The dude is a troll obviously. Best bet is not to give him your attention. How many post has his 15 dribble fueled pcb requests generated? He probably rub one out each time someone makes the trouble to respond. Oh BTW Stacky all three of your moms called from Craigslist and said you need to get back into the basement and do your chores.... I guess he is not the only one who can be moronic....

I just got done watching the video posted. Just one question. Is the gaint ashtray and also the weed pipe included?

One more thing. I seem to remember that I also had an issue with the connection between the base and cs board. Have you double checked all those points?

Im not sure if this will help but I had a problem that was very like this. My problem was that certain encoders only went up and not down. ie I could twist it either way but it would only register the increasing values. I tracked this issue down by first investigating the input matrix and hunting down which (registers?) controlled each of my funcky encoders. It was real easy from that point as I found that one was responsable for all the encoders that were acting up. From there is was a simple matter to find my poor soldering spot and fix it. At least this is what I remember... I never really know whats going on... good luck...

Hey Stryd, I want to take a step back because I want your feedback but I think we have a misunderstanding. I wasnt thinking that the user would wear the pads themselves. The plan was to have a target to hit in a given time frame. I spoke briefly with the instructor yesterday and he invisioned at least a 3X3 grid of pads on a surface (perhaps a shhet of plywood) that could be bolted to his wall. We would want to be able to program the sequence, set the time in to the CS and hit start. Then the user would have say 1 second to hit the target before it is no longer valid, repeat on next target, etc. Ideally he would like to have a system that generates a score based on the number of valid targets hit and the time taken to hit them. The idea there being that if you hit the target quicker you would score higher. Also, as soon as one target was hit the next would become active. So far he does not feel to concerned with measuring the force of the impact although he does say it sounds interesting. from what I have read about the piezos and vibrations, I would probably need to do somethign to isolate each from the vibrations of the board. Perhaps somethign could be done on a software level to prevent false triggers from being counted. So does this make more or less sense?

Ok thanks for the feedback. Somehow it does not surprise me that stryd asks about the specific martial arts style. Its mainly for some semi traditional tae kwon do. No wing chun wooden man fighting dummies needed. I looked at the piezo triggers from edrum. That looks like it could work. I guess some drummer would bash these things pretty hard. I will try to make a trigger and get that working as the first step.

Oh Im not trying to call anyone out. Im just staying... if it makes Wilba excited it must be good. Again thats real nice looking.

Neato. That sure is nice. I think I know the secret code fnp. This looks like a nice little box that wont end up on ebay making blue lantern even more hated. If thats possible. Are you going to share the snr that is not like puking baby? Again Neato and thanks for the entertainment today!

Hi Folks, I am trying to make a midibox for my buddies martial arts teacher. The purpose of this contraption would be as follows 1) A series of ‘pads’ with internal switches for punching or kicking 2) A console that can program a user defined sequence of pads to hit. 3) A user controlled time that would indicate how long the pads have to be hit 4) A start button on the controller that would start the timer 5) Each pad would have some light to indicate it is the next one to be hit 6) 2 sounds (or perhaps two separate lights) to indicate if the pads were hit on time and/or if the correct pad was hit. 7) Bonus a nice timer display that will have the reaction time for bragging rights 8) Double bonus storing and exporting data for future reference (like in spreadsheet) 9) Triple bonus Pressure sensing pads and some form of readout that indicates force applied Making the hardware seems easy enough. Core, DIN, DOUT and maybe an LCD for the console. Bugfight suggests FSRs for the pads. The software also doesn’t seem like it would be too complicated. I think the main difficulty would be to make the pads with an appropriate switch or FSR. Bugfight also mentions that this device probably already exists in some form. However, This teacher and myself are keen to make this a midibox project. So anyone got an idea of what this pre-existing device might be so I can research. So anyone got an idea of how I might make the pads So anyone got an idea of any thing I might have missed/wanted to add So anyone got an idea of any problems I might encounter So anyone got an idea of why am I a Rasta Man OK thanks Lief

I might take it if you could throw in a couple of those 6583s ....

Well my clone works great. No problems yet. It does have a cheaper feel then the Weller but I attribute that to the lightness of the case. The weller was much heavier. Either way it was been working great. Thanks Stryd. I still hope someday to figure out what went wrong with the weller and fix it....

The chips have not arrived in boston yet...

Well Damn... Are you still going to send them out? Ill take all 104 if no one else wants them... like I said before I don’t care if they are imaginary. *w*

Well it seems a time warp happened. In still in.

Thats good stuff. Here is somemore for those who want to think even less. bigger list http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html Capacitor Calc http://www.muzique.com/schem/caps.htm

I found these bargraphs on futurlecs site. I know I know they are the devil and all but 30 cents each seems like cheap money. They are 20 cents each for 100. Thought it might be useful to someone. http://www.futurlec.com/Specials.shtml scroll down

ok Ill bite..

Lief says woohoo!

Ill Second Nebula on the 6582 being easier to build and also a hell of alot more expensive. But for an ultra noob I think the fatman would be easier for the simple fact that you cant go wrong with the directions. plus if you FAIL you can always send it off, pay some cash, and have it back working. Everything else Nebs says about the 'special qualities' of the finsihed product are sadly true also except for the part about it being truly analog ;). I dont think you can get cheaper than that though and as I said before scotts site has some excellent addons. All that being said its nothing compared the the mighty SID synth.... Oh well I suspect I might be rambling now... have fun