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latigid on

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Posts posted by latigid on

  1. I have the same "IDC crimping tool" but favour simply using a bench vise. For micromatch MOW cables I leave the polarising tab outside and it works well for me. If you have different tools that work for you, all good!

    As far as testing other cable types go, there is a plan to build a "backpack"/"shield" that spans across the IDC16s. Then in theory any connector could be wired in. 

    It's a really fun project to build and you can see it working straight away. :)

  2. Hi Alistair,

    Generally I would only populate parts where there is a silkscreen indicator. This is certainly a double-sided board and the Core is quite a basic circuit, so you won't need any jumpers I am 99% sure. All pin headers seem to be indicated with a J prefix.

    Any plated holes that don't have a corresponding silkscreen mark are probably vias that join the top and bottom copper planes. You will probably be able to see the copper tracks leading to the vias from the difference in colour. Or if there is no track, the via connects to a 0V/ground plane But yes, it is harder to make out with black solder mask!

    If you are unsure, put your multimeter in continuity test mode (or resistance) and check the electrical connections. 


  3. You could write an NGR script to address LEDs in sequence:


    It is a very hacky script and could be much nicer with a few for loops.

    You can use the MIOS terminal command

    set dout all 1

    (or 0 if the cathodes sink into 595 inputs). It really depends on your setup, whether you have transistors, whether you drive LEDs in a matrix etc.

    You will need a better +5V PSU though as whatever MCU you are using might drop out of regulation with too much draw.


  4. Not sure if it is supported as I think it expects a Standard Control Surface (SCS). 

    To change the "LCD configuration" you first must upload the bootloader app and choose the appropriate LCD type (including OLEDS :) )

  5. Some people noticed that the LoopA can get stuck in booloader hold mode. As a potential remedy, install resistors R101 and R102. If you don't have the exact values it doesn't really matter. JPA0 should be left unjumpered except if you want to enforce bootloader hold.

    With the resistors installed the state of PA0 is properly defined rather than floating. If you don't notice the issue, no need to change it! The BOM is updated to reflect this.

  6. What other CAD software experience do you have? If it's all new and you'd rather not learn, Protocase is still okay. With the possible costs of e.g. a Fusion subscription and a few design iterations of the first attempts you do, probably that $340 is pretty good. If you want to develop your skills and do more case work in the future, definitely go down that route.

    Another option would be to design the panel as a PCB, have it fabbed and find a matching case for it e.g. the PT-10. Yet another option is to design an acrylic case that can be laser-cut in 2D and snaps together.

  7. For what project do you need an enclosure?

    Protocase is awesome and very reasonably priced for one-offs where they take care of everything for you. A great company to work with. The other way would be to machine your own but this requires tools and skills on your part

  8. Yep, the case hardware screws won't work perfectly with the Mouser part. I would personally recommend to use the 4-40 MF standoffs that come with the DB-25 socket as case mounts and keep the black screws for another day. Then you can properly mate a DB-25 cable. If you prefer the look of the >>panhead<< screws, feel free to mangle the thread in the DB-25, but you need nuts on the inside to keep it tight.

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