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Posts posted by latigid on
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You can get plugs of this form that have solder pins, but maybe you want to hack one together with a normal IDC (ribbon) plug?
Take an IDC and remove the crimping part, then bridge all of the pins required, except leave the supply voltage (or 0V) floating to avoid shorting the power supply.
Or take a ribbon cable and do the same? Just leave one conductor free.
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Nice track!
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Hehe!
Yes, plenty more than 44 sold but some people are not aware that this thread (or even this forum!) exists.
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Haha! Honestly I had the PCBs built for a while but never found the time to put everything together. I had to test a PCB revision anyway so though it was a good opportunity.
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Awesome! Glad that you could get to the bottom of it and that the caps didn't explode too violently!
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Congrats #43 ! Looks great in the rack!
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Yes! Just switch the jumper appropriately.
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Hi Laurent,
For euroceiver versions 1.5 or older there is a J0 jumper above J19, near the USB.
There is a jumper on the line transmit board but it basically supplies power over the DB cable, which you don't really want as there is a big voltage drop.
If grounding is not the issue then I would typically expect power supply (e.g. noisy USB), bad cabling or similar.
At least you can test directly without the line drivers now the SEQ is open.
Best,
Andy -
It is important with older euroceiver boards that the J0 jumper is installed. This grounds the two systems. Is yours grounded?
To rule out the line drivers, you can bypass them but you'd have to open the SEQ case of course...
Something else to try would be a different power supply e.g. the USB+5V instead of the regulator etc.
Best,
Andy -
That pad (pad 3) is not connected, so you can ignore it!
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Hello,
Not sure sorry... But you should be able to interrupt the J8/9 header with your module.
Best,
Andy -
It should press fit but Peter has a technique to use Scotch tape to hold it in place before lowering the case.
For me, I slightly roughen the back powder coating (say 120-grit sandpaper) and apply drops of superglue to the corners, away from the edge. Then I carefully place the protector in. If you mess this up though, you'll get a nasty smear on the plastic, so tape is probably safer and sufficient.
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Excellent job!
Regarding the light|shield/standoff collision, I had the same experience but like you say, it is simple to just cut out a little bit. I also found that it was useful to cut out a bit of the waveshare JTAG header (the side near the crystal) to avoid collisions with the THT resistors on the back of the base PCB.
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We have seen a case where trying to flash with the PA0 port left floating could lead to a corrupted bootloader. Hence the resistors R101 and R102 seem to be very important (that were not installed on your initial build).
The footswitch/gate LEDs are driven by the buffer chip IC6, so it is expected that they don't illuminate with no inputs.
Anyway, great that it seems to work well!
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Restart MIOS Studio?
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Were the CN3 jumpers removed from the DISCO board? Otherwise the SWD programmer is connected to two STM32F4 chips.
To my knowledge the circuit shown is correct but it has been a few years since I tried it.
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Connecting over JTAG might be a good try. You'll find some documentation for that on the wiki, especially flashing with an ST-LINK/DISCO board
http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wcore -
If you think an available commercial device can fulfil your needs, then get one! DIY is a different thing. It is potentially more expensive and you have to put in the tools and effort to finish things, but the journey can be very rewarding and sometimes you can obtain tools that are not found elsewhere, often for the very reason that they would be impractical or uneconomical to produce in scale.
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Looks really great!
Depending on the width and power draw of the modules, you might want a few more bussboards/PSUs. See how you go!
Best,
Andy -
Well done! Are you building the CS too or somethin else?
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Sorry, the extent to which I could help is already in the posts above. If you have more specific questions there might be others who are more into code modification. But at the moment it is hard to know what step you are on. It sounds to me like you are stuck right at the beginning, and I think it is rather up to you to learn how to modify the code to get what you want out of it.
Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+
in MIDIbox SEQ
Posted
Yup, that's a common one! Actually Peter shows you the Mouser part number in the video but of course it is not 100% obvious and the part numbers are fairly similar.
If you used leaded solder, you should be able to remove it easily. Flux can help but it is not 100% necessary. Normally I try for about 300°C and a relatively high airflow for this. If you need higher temperature it will probably be okay for the RN, but you'll need to take care of the other chips, MEC switches and encoder.
When removing the chip, you might need to wiggle it to get the solder moving. When I do it, I always try to slide the chip laterally along the leads i.e. towards/along the long sides of the pads. This tends to keep the PCB pads intact and doesn't bend the chip leads, hopefully also the leads don't get too messy with solder blobs.
When done, if necessary clean up the PCB pads with flux/braid to make the surface flat again. If necessary do the same with the chip. If it's not possible to easily get things flat, you can add flux and use the reflow hot air station again.
Good luck!