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latigid on

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  1. Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    1. Please edit the post to not include such a long string of DIN messaages. A few lines will suffice. 

    2. Please upload the images to the forum so others can be helped when the offsite links no longer work. 

    The typical error here is an incorrect part or soldering for the 10k resistor network on the JA board (see previous posts in this thread). 

  2. Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    1 hour ago, niles said:

    Lastly, I was able to load the project.hex file posted from Hawkeye in an earlier post, but is there a newer, official build by TK for this?  I have been looking and only found the SVN, no idea how to compile..was hoping the latest firmware binary would just be able to download somewhere obvious. I have a ways to go in this build and can only work a little bit at a time so I'm not too worried right now. However, if there is a seq v4+ firmware version specific to this kit, might be helpful if it's available on the midiphy page. Just a suggestion.

    The latest official firmware files are available from http://ucapps.de/mios32_download.html. There is also a thread where "pre-releases" are sometimes available:

    I would prefer to keep firmware in one location. I added the link to the parent page on midiphy.com, but unfortunately I'm not clever enough to make it clickable. Perhaps Peter can sort it out ;)

     

  3. Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    Just now, niles said:

    Thank you - I wasn't sure how much of that cable I'd need for this kit and was hesitant to tear it apart. 

    Recommended cable lengths are given at the end of the BOM here.

     

     

    Just now, gotkovsky said:

    Hello!

    I'm almost done building all the PCBs, and I'm having another issue uploading MBSEQ App on the Waveshare, just searched a few hours on the forum but couldn't find an answer.

    So I got MIOS Studio 2.4.8 running (on MBP High Sierra), but the MIOS32 midi I/Os don't show up on MIOS Studio (just displays << none >>). I tried several options but nothing worked so far (tried booting different versions of MIOS Studio, restarting MIOS Studio or PC several times, MIOS Studio on another Macbook running Mavericks too).

    Here's all the infos I could gather: 

    —Red PWR led on the Waveshare is lit.
    —VBUS led on the Waveshare is not lit.
    —Checked the soldering on all PCBs and nothing looks wrong.
    —Waveshare's pinheaders are not fully engaged on low-profile headers (but I can't seem to push them further).

     

    I'd greatly appreciate a bit of help is anyone has a clue, thanks in advance!

     

     

    Did you use the drop-down menu to select a MIDI port?

    Check all jumper settings and try to use the onboard USB micro to connect to your computer.

  9. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    Fast work! IMO the bleed is okay even without any blocking, and with the blocker it would satisfy 99.9% of users as shown in your image -- even using clear caps. We can always strive for perfection, but the basic goal here is to clearly indicate the state of a step.

    Given the complexity (and fragility) of the designed piece, I wonder if it's actually an over-engineered solution? Simpler and cheaper would be to use some reflective tape on the topside edges of the Matiases. This is less fancy and more hackish, but might do the trick. As a benefit, you might get a bit of reflection and increase the brightness slightly.

    This is just my observation/opinion. Don't let me discourage you from building the instrument of your dreams :).

  10. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    Great! I wonder though if it would be better to use a foam (although those go bad after a few years), rubber or other soft material, as we also have to take care of the diodes on the plate PCB? I think a laser cutter/waterjet would be needed though.

  11. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Elektruck said:

    I'm interested,... but the LED window is way to small for me. So I don't think this is an option for me, although I understand the feeling about the shining through the neighbour knobs.

    Last weekend I did my first gig with the sequencer, There was a lot of smoke, lasers and other flashing lights and I totally loved the big coloured buttons, it felt very sturdy/secure! So obvious what you are doing :)...

    kernafval-live.jpg

    Wow!

  12. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Antichambre said:

    Fichier%2007-03-2019%2012%2007%2017.jpeg

     

    Bruno, that's an extremely sexy sequencer! Chapeau! 

     

    You understand, that we are invested in the clear caps now. But if you would like to try with the small windows, please go ahead. We actually have a set of "relegendable" caps that are intended for the LoopA, so maybe that could accomplish the same thing with a mostly opaque top? Hmm, but the sides would still be clear...

    One idea I had was to have a plastic "light blocker" part machined from opaque acrylic (e.g. black) and to put that just underneath the keycaps i.e. on top of the plate PCBs. I don't know how much vertical spacing there is for a depressed key, which would determine the thickness of the acrylic. Bruno, would you like to try and cut one? I could send you the DXF for the plate.

     

  14. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    Hi Andy,

    i would like to keep the red LED after all, meaning i would go for red/cyan/white scheme. in this case, if i understand correctly, i simply need to add another RJ going B-->3, correct?

    This can be done, but now you are splitting the current through the green and blue LEDs. It will be slightly higher through two LEDs than one, but the current passing through each will be lower than if there was just one LED.

     

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    i don't really see the green admixture anymore.

    I don't understand the question: if you have the combo RJs, (red, green+blue), then your colours are red + cyan. Normally the green will be stronger than the blue, so the blue needs a smaller resistor value. Play around with the resistor values to suit your brightness/colour preference.

     

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    should i try a larger resistor (any experience here?)

    Peter @Hawkeye might have a suggestion as he tried this first.

     

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    or do i need to add also something to SJ ?

    It's got nothing to do with any SJ. Just match the SJ to whatever is on the RJ A buss (red/1).

     

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    (in fact, i am not sure how SJ come into the game, could you perhaps share the part of the schematic showing a leMEC switch "column"?)

    Try on the troubleshooting thread; also as explained above the SJ just connects to the A buss. If you connect an SJ to the B buss, then you have to reconfigure the LEDs in the HWCFG file.

     

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    another question regarding the Matias LEDs. i find the bleed is quite strong. so i did my homework and went back to read the entire design thread and i know this was considered and the current solution is the best possible. but i still wonder if anybody has tried to isolate, for example by painting the sides black? i don't see much space to insert light shielding, due to the caps.

     

    2 hours ago, gotkovsky said:

    I'm currrently building a V4+ and also thinking about painting the external sides of the DSA keycaps (probably in white to match the case, which should block the light sufficiently). I think it would provide a clearer indication for the eye, and shouldn't be difficult with some spraypaint, varnish and good masking tape application. Painting the internal sides is not a good idea IHMO, as applying tape inside the caps would be almost impossible to do accurately. Or maybe painting the inside in black with a small brush, and the outside with white spraypaint?

    Sure, try it and post results!

     

    5 hours ago, southpole said:

    and one more thing ;-) we should talk battery ;-)
    to be fully portable it would be great to have a battery.
    for example, a mobile phone power bank could be attached with velcro tape under the right leMEC. there are some that switch automatically between charging and discharging. but i am not sure if / where it can be hooked up to the core? and we would need a switch which i know was decided against. but it should be easy to retrofit a round latching switch above the core breakout just to attach / detach the power bank.

    together with a WiFI SD card and Yamaha wireless MIDI plugs we would have a completely wireless SEQ V4+, that could be played like a keytar. for example.

    Sure, give it a go. You could connect the battery power to the internal USB micro plug of the Waveshare 407v. Would the battery packs sense an external charge from the normal SEQ v4+ USB B plug and charge that way? Not sure...  You could wire the +5V on the wCore (e.g. the micromatch connector) to an SPDT with one side to the battery and the other to the USB breakout PCB.

    Do you intend to connect through USB to a computer etc.? If not, why not just plug the power bank into the USB B?

     

     

     

  15. Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    Hello,

    Don't worry about it! The only thing that might be damaged are the ICs (74HCT125 x2 and 74HC595). You will easily see if these are bad though, as the displays won't initialise (595 chip) or the SRIO chain doesn't work (IC1B).

    If you weren't applying heat directly to the ICs though, I think they should still be fine.

    Try and see! If there's an issue, it might be wise to invest in a hot air gun to swap the ICs, which ironically would be really nice for popping out pinheaders too :).

  16. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    Looks like the LPK25 can be battery powered as well? I don't have any experience with this device sorry, so I can't help you there.

    The current case revision should have correctly positioned cutouts to support the edges of the MIDI8 board. It's not possible to use the central mounting points as these would conflict with the rack version/blind plate metal. Older cases could be drilled out if really required.

  18. MIOS8/32 repositories now hosted at Github

    in MIOS programming (C)

    Posted

    It's a nice idea, though SVN was still fine for a passive user like me. 

    This was discussed elsewhere, but just to be clear: you (TK.) prefer to keep control of the master line and review all changes, and you will keep the same license terms as non-commercial for personal use only (no GPL/CC-BY etc.)? This is not a request for you to change anything you don't want to of course.

  19. Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    1 hour ago, rbv2 said:

    hi,

     

    I would recommend to desolder the pins one by one and cleaning the soldering joints afterwards with the desoldering pump. just heat them up and use tweezers to pull them off.

     

    +1, remove the plastic part if possible and just go one pin at a time. Normally you can get a flat tool or blade underneath and the plastic part should lift out. 

    By gold pinheaders, do you mean shrouded headers? If you don't have replacement parts available, normal unshrouded pinheaders also work (I normally use those and check the orientation carefully before connecting IDC cables.

  22. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    Hello, OTG works with some things and not so well with the others.

    First to check the power jumper on the USB board is stuffed? Note: this is a very basic spec for OTG (no overcurrent regulator etc.). So please be sure that you know what you're doing!

  24. midiphy SEQ v4+

    in MIDIbox SEQ

    Posted

    @gbrandt It should be possible to swap the RJs from 1:3 even without disassembly. But you've probably used position 1 for SJs, meaning if you don't use the red LED, the MEC switches will also need to go to the same position as was done for the red.

    For RJs, 1 = red, 2 = green, 3 = blue. For easiest hardware mapping, the MEC SJ should always be the same number for whichever RJ1|2|3 -> A.

    The least work might be to desolder the RJ A->1 resistor and cross the [new] resistor over the top of the "B -> 2" resistor, so A -> 3. Then on the SJs, swap the resistor from 1 to 3. This would keep the hardware mapping the same.

    To do a tidy job and make A -> 2, B -> 3, the LED colour functions will be inverted as you see at the moment, but I think you can swap them in software. For completeness, if you do the tidy job method, then the SJ should connect to #2 for all MECs. 

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