latigid on
-
Posts
2,516 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
147
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Posts posted by latigid on
-
-
Awesome job!
Almost forgot your serial number #34
-
1
-
-
Yep, the case hardware screws won't work perfectly with the Mouser part. I would personally recommend to use the 4-40 MF standoffs that come with the DB-25 socket as case mounts and keep the black screws for another day. Then you can properly mate a DB-25 cable. If you prefer the look of the >>panhead<< screws, feel free to mangle the thread in the DB-25, but you need nuts on the inside to keep it tight.
-
1
-
-
Building an RH
Building an LH
But Peter shows you the differences here. So if I understand the assembly video you can change the location of the longer cable to suit your case variant.
-
Nice that you got the FLUXTEST working!
Cables should be almost the same lengths for RH/LH, as they have to travel from the left to the right for both cases' cases. :)
-
1
-
-
-
Quote
When there is a Midiconnection from any Loopa MidiOut (DInSocket) --- to a synthesizer --- then it dont boots up >>> now Midiloops because no Input Connected on the Loopa.
Quoteworkaround for now is to connect the Midiouts every time new before booting up the LoopA ---- but i dont want to stress the MidiSockets for ever....
These statements contradict each other. Can you get a state where the LoopA is running and sending MIDI? Or do you mean "boot the LoopA and then afterwards connect the MIDI outs"?
Curious whether you installed the scratch washer and hence grounded the case -- or not? Sometimes these sorts of peculiar things come back to grounding. We can't of course rule out hardware issues (e.g. we know of one dodgy Waveshare Core) or your build process e.g. stressed or overheated pins, shorts etc.
Maybe there is flux residue on the MIDI sockets? Worth another look there.
-
Hard to say if that's a hardware issue or software. IMO best practice would be to make all connections before applying power and avoid hot-swapping...
The LoopA shouldn't care what its outputs are connected to. For your case #4 above, what is connected to your MI1/2? Do you have a MIDI loop? MIDI outs have the 0V connected, so you should consider how the other parts are powered: maybe a so-called "ground loop"?
16 minutes ago, Phatline said:what can that be?:
* the loopa is totally unconnected... then plugin usb cable --- loopa and display boot up - normal
* the loopa is tottaly unconnectet... then plug in midiIN1 or 2 ---then plugin in usb cable --- all ok
* the loopa is totally unconnectet... then plug in MidiIN1 or 2 ---then plugin in MidiOUT1 or 2 or 3 - but without connecting a synth on the other end --- loopa boots up - all ok
* the loopa is totally unconnected... then plugin midi''IN1 or 2 --- then plugin in MidiOUT1 or 2 or 3 - connected to a NordRackII or Dipcore - loopa dont boot up (power led blinks 7 times i think, then it stays on power)
when i then disconnect the Midiout plug after a time it boots up
the last case, isnt pysical stressed --- i connect on one of the midi outs with a loose cable (without a synth on the other end...) --- then it boots up normally.
i tested it with a Nordrack III and DipCoreV2 (cc-looper)
workaround for now is to connect the Midiouts every time new before booting up the LoopA ---- but i dont want to stress the MidiSockets for ever....
-
What did you have in mind? If you want, you could assign it to any function in the HWCFG
SR Pin
1/7* 6*1 for LH, 7 for RH
There is a Moog v-trig converter on there, so a positive gate at the tip of the jack should pull the 165 pin low and enact a DIN event. How about clocking in an analogue tap tempo?
The 3.5mm ring is connected via resistor R4 (USB PCB) to SR pin 5. Probably the 10k value is too high, rather go for 4k7 or less (e.g 1k/2k2). So shorting the ring to 0V will trigger a DIN event there.
And a post from 2011 illuminates the actual intention:
QuoteRômulo aka. Midilab started to implement a footswitch function which is especially useful for live recording and track modifications while playing on a keyboard.
Press&Hold the footswitch to enable record mode, release it to disable record mode. Tap the footswitch shortly to delete the track.
The footswitch can be assigned to a free DIN pin in MBSEQ_HW.V4
So:
# SR Pin BUTTON_FOOTSWITCH 1 5or for RH
# SR Pin BUTTON_FOOTSWITCH 7 5Please test it if it sounds useful!
Best,
Andy -
Good job!
-
Thanks for the feedback and ideas!
We know there is a bit of LED stray light going on. Some people like it as it reminds them of their backlit mechanical keyboards. But for indicator LEDs it can be suboptimal.
For the smaller 2x3x4/2x5x7 LEDs, a good technique we found was to use a piece of heatshrink tube. It's a great idea to roughen the top too if that is preferred. Sometimes you can also make the LED cloudy e.g. with acetone (nail polish remover) but needs to be tested.
For blocking the light from adjacent Matias switches, we have another solution in the pipeline (more info soon)
-
2
-
-
Never heard of DFU. SWD (or JTAG) is more common.
-
4 hours ago, zaordsword said:
Hi Here,
I would like to know if it is possible to flash the mios Bootloader and mios applications on other cards than STM32F4-DISCO, for exemple on this boards :
https://github.com/mcauser/MCUDEV_DEVEBOX_F407VGT6Try it! Report if it works.
4 hours ago, zaordsword said:I would like to know how it would be difficult to make Mios studio working with newer stm32 board like Teensy 4.0 or Stm32H743 board like https://github.com/mcauser/MCUDEV_DEVEBOX_H7XX_M
Possible but would take much more effort.
-
@keelhauler that's super cute! We do try to make designs cat-friendly :)
-
Awesome!
Thanks for the positive and informative debug reports and have fun with the LoopA :-).
-
Glad that the OLED issue is solved! Could I ask where/how the broken trace originated?
For the DIN problem, you can recheck the soldering on Core IC1B especially pin 13 (RC2). Make sure that you get contact all the way through the header when the sandwich is assembled. Please reflow the joints to get "volcanoes" rather than "balls".
You will have to be careful not to move the individual pins around because the plastic part that normally holds them together is gone. My approach to soldering the J89 pin header is different to Peter's. I found that you don't have to push the pins all the way to the bottom of the corresponding socket on the Core and there is no need to remove the plastic. The plastic prevents solder flowing through the holes and making blobs that might short out other pins.
----- if you have any spare 2.54mm pin sockets you can use this temporarily on the long end to hold them together.
On the Plate PCB can you provide the part number of the resistor networks? If it is an isolated type the DINs will not work. The orientation is also important.
-
Hmm, did you try reflowing the joints? How is the unit being powered? Is the LoopA firmware loaded? Are you running in test mode (no SD card)?
You could check the above-mentioned pins for shorts to 0V/3v3 or even to each other, so check a) adjacent pins on the J15C header and b) pins on the waveshare breakout,
Happy to take a look at the soldering of the other boards. You can also load MB_NG and check if your DIN is working as expected from MIOS Studio (set debug on).
-
Ah, one more thing: make sure that you use a decent PSU for the USB/power. If the PSU is weak or noisy you might get unstably power for the display. Good luck!
-
Seems mostly good but I would check the soldering on the waveshare pins again
Is the 10uF capacitor correctly oriented? Probably it is but I can't tell from your picture. What is the voltage at the reset pin (should be +3v3)?
Below is the J15C pinout. You can check for interconnections at the top of the waveshare pins. I.e. make sure that you get contact all the way through.
Net N$9 is the chip select signal that goes to pin 15 of IC2 (also check the soldering there).
And here is the same for the display/plate with the connections labelled.
-
Hi,
Maybe the jumper powering the display is not installed? Could you post a photo of both sides of your Core PCB?
Best,
Andy -
Your proposed part substitution should work.
Check the interboard spacing:
16mm M2 spacer
3M FF header socket 8.26mm
TE thru-board header 6.5mm
14.76mm, you have >1mm to spare.FWIW I've used large strips of FF sockets for years, just cut down with a dremel-like tool and you lose that position as the tool "melts through". But it works fine and is cheaper than individual sockets of the right size.
-
Right, there are no F buttons on the midiphy SEQ v4+. Here are a couple of approaches:
- Press 'Exit' until you reach the menu then the 10th button
- Assign a bookmark to the page; see seq_ui_pages.h for a list of pages to jump to
- Freely assign any other button that you don't use (e.g. metronome) in the hardware configuration
- Hack the firmware/code yourself
- Request such a feature
-
Hi, sure is!
Top row is equivalent to Wilba GP buttons. They action items on the OLEDs or e.g. in track mode toggle gates/triggers on and off.
Bottom selection row changes function depending on the selection LEDs (around the datawheel/dial). So instead of Wilba's 4x track groups and 4x tracks, you have all 16 tracks available on individual buttons, (up to) 16 step views or whatever the track supports. Likewise you have up to 16 layers available, whereas you only had layer A/B/(C: multipurpose) on Wilba's. Layers are either parameters or triggers, check the amazing user guide here.
Other than that it's quite similar, so most of the smaller dedicated buttons will be the same. Shift = Select!
-
7 hours ago, Altitude said:
Solved!
And this is some crazy ass shit too: I was friction fitting the core with the mainboard to see if removing the TVS fixed it (it didnt) so the plan was to try the temporary headers like andy suggested with the minimal setup but my trimmed down, solder coated ones were not fitting the sockets i had so I decided just to put new headers on the core, not a big deal, suck out the solder and pull the pins out one at a time. When I did the first row and pulled off the plastic header there was a fair amount of solder where the plastic was (like it puddled there). I just ignored it thinking it was from the desolder gun and cleaned it all up but after the clean up, and new headers, it fired right up. In hindsight, there was way more solder there than should have been, I was sucking out solder through one end and pulling the pin out through the other, what was left there after I removed the plastic was in the shape of the plastic header like a mold, there is no way that came from the desolder gun especially since it sucks solder out or from any other soldering I did since those were on the other side of the header. I checked all the IO pins for shorts to ground and +5 but NOT to each other which seems to be what was happening here, must have happened in the wave machine when those headers were soldered on at the factory. Just dumb luck i decided to replace those, I would have never found it otherwise, should have taken a picture
Wow, what a saga! I'm really sorry that you had to go through all of that. I'll discuss with Peter as to how we can compensate you for the trouble. It's the first time we've seen something like this and of course it will be reported to the manufacturer. Seems like fab errors crop up from time to time but it always sucks to get stumped by them.
Well done again for sleuthing it out. Hope the rest of the build goes better.
Best,
Andy -
Just now, lp1977 said:
I'm about to pull my clear caps off and address the light bleed. Thinking about using some 3/4" heat shrink tubing cut into rings. I saw you settled on black magic marker.
After that, I will be installing the windowed keycaps. It requires a lot of hand pressure to install the caps onto the switches before inserting them into the PCB. With you having installed different key caps and removing and reorienting them a few times, did you have any issues pressing them onto the switch with the switches already soldered in the PCB?
Any advice?
Thanks
Getting a bit OT here... Peter and I have been working on this and will have a solution ready for light bleed that could work for existing SEQs too. If you bought the midiphy L4 caps, they don't really like to come off again after insertion. The fully clear ones are safer in this regard. So for L4 caps you might want to wait a bit...
Or, there are other light-blocking ideas. Heatshrink doesn't work consistently enough as the bottom will pull away from the switch body. Something like LiquidTape could be a good bet but it is very stinky and you should work outside with it at least or even wear an air filter mask.
For keycaps, you could use a nail file (or borrow the better half's) or sandpaper to gently scrape around the stem of the cap, at least at the very tip to bevel the edge somewhat.
Enclosures?
in Parts Questions
Posted
For what project do you need an enclosure?
Protocase is awesome and very reasonably priced for one-offs where they take care of everything for you. A great company to work with. The other way would be to machine your own but this requires tools and skills on your part