Futureman

Nice work! Looking good.

Shameless self promotion Modded TR-727 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130371852412&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

Still can't upload pictures. I'm not a fan of offsite pictures.. in a few years they'll be gone, and the post will be meaningless. The pictures is just a close up so you can see the way the timber is detailed / fits / etc near the mod section.. It's not important, just helpful. Regards Mike

hmmm... can't seem to upload closeup of mod wheel section.

Your list looks pretty good/complete to me.. (I've never built any MB controllers tho) I'm still thinking you should get the PC and software running & get a controller and take it for a spin to see how it handles before you fork out $$ on other bits. It's gonna be no good if the latency is poor. Have you done a cost breakdown? Still not sold on a S/H controller? I respect your choice, but it would not be mine. What about a midi merge to merge outside midi with the keyboard going into to the PC? I've heard about people doing it via the can bus I think.. you might need to research that. (Actually, you prob could avoid all that if you use a midi interface with 2 in's) For my Minimoog restoration (Had no keyboard when i got it, so put in a midi'd keyboard with midi-CV) and big SID synth (MB6582 with keyboard) i used midi merge's. Regards Mike

Ah.. thats because the back is not parallel to the front edge! The P5 has a bit of an agressive wedge shape. The back side (with the big heatsink & audio sockets) is at a right angle to the face (With the knobs) , where the front (Thin leading edge) is at a right angle to the base (The bit that sits on the floor). Thats why the base (the face that sits on the floor) is longer (415mm) than the total of the face in your pic (395mm) Hope that clears that up, and now the measurements should add up nicely (+/- a few mm)

Depth of control panel = 177mm Regards Mike

Have you desoldered, and rotated the buss bar on the Rogue? Good luck with the woodwork Mike

The cap that exploded was prob a tantalum cap, they often fail with age.. going short circuit, then going up in smoke. Quite a few things that I've gotten broken and fixed were due to tantalum caps dying.. I'm not 100% sure that the whole core + keyboard is a good idea.. I still think getting a S/H controller is still going to be cheaper and simpler. The rubber contacts have given me grief in the past, but only on old keyboards (Emulator II & PolySix) and on new keyboards that have had drinks spilt on them. but even then, taking the keyboard apart, and removing the rubber contacts and washing them, then cleaning the pcb under them has always fixed up the issues for me. Bus bar keyboards also have their issues to (contacts bouncing, causing double notes) and the only 100% proof way i've found of fixing them is to use silver conductive grease. A tiny smear on the contacts works wonders, and 2 years after doing it to my Emulator 1, I've never had a bounced note. Also, it sounds that it might be tricky to implement velocity on your keyboard.. and while the P5 is not velocity sensitive, it'd be nice to have the option. Regards Mike

Prophet 5 switches are the Same dims as the second link.. Approx 12mm x 17mm Regards Mike

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Sequential-Circuits-Tact-Led-Switches-Prophet-5-PB86_W0QQitemZ300372938372QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45ef9f4e84 HKSS often does great deals for bigger buys, so ask em if how much for x amount. These, however are NOT the same switches as used in a Prophet 5.. actually, these are the same as used in many Oberheim Synths.. I've bought plenty of these in the past, and used em for quite a few projects, including a midibox Seq. http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Sequential-Circuits-Momentary-Tactile-Led-Switch-PB87_W0QQitemZ270460290236QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef8b084bc these switches I'm not 100% sure if they are the correct dimensions.. but they look right. Regards Mike

As the proud owner of a Prophet 5, mine is very reliable, and I take mine gigging and use it daily. It's easily the coolest synth out there. Cutting up a second hand midi keyboard is no big deal.. I've done it on about 3 different projects.. The second hand markets (Trash & Treasure) are a good source of midi'd keyboards.. I've found a Evolution 4 octave controller for $3, and another for $5. Garage sales are also good. (Besides the obvious ebay) Actually, I once got a controller for $20 on ebay because the seller spelt "Keyboard" wrong. (Keboard) I would be really concerned with latency more than anything.. even 10ms starts making something sound sloppy... It's the whole immediacy thing, like you hit the key and the sound happens. even if it's tiny, that delay starts to make an instrument feel sloppy and lazy. What about the creamware rack version? you could pick that up S/H for a decent amount now. Where are you located? I might even be able to source you a Prophet 5 front panel.. If you want to go 100% authentic.. lol. (I'm in Sydney / Australia) Regards Mike

you should be asking this on prodigy pro.. you might have better luck. REV 7's are not bad either.

Mine did the same, so i replaced the PS with another. The one that 'sagged' on mine was a beige one, where as the one that worked well was one of those vented black ones.

Kinda sounds ever so similar to what I had when I installed the wrong hex.

Which Hex file are you uploading? The one Wilba sent you?

Don't lose sleep over frying the pic, it is pretty much impossible to fry. (Unless you really f@#ked up the soldering.)

Just out of interest, When you measure between the 5v & ground, are you using a multimeter set to resistance, or a buzzer? The Capacitors across the +5 & ground would for a short instance, make it seem as if their was a short between the two (While the cap is charging) Can you measure the resistance? if it comes up as something like 0 - 10 ohms, then thats a short. Just thinking aloud. Mike

yep.. that stuff is messy. Over to you, Wilba.

I don't think that should be a problem, unless you smeared it all over the pcb? I'd be looking elsewhere. You used the white stuff? Or is yours a black grey / silver grease? Regards Mike

I'm dunno why, but there are many Aussies around here. I can recomend a good cheap laser cutter in Syndey that I use. http://www.lcne.com.au/ Regards Mike (Sydney) PS, what about implementing wireless MIDI & battery power? (M-Audio MidAir) You don't want a controller like that on stage, with a big umbilical cord hanging off it.

I dare say that looks very much like a korg poly6 key, or maybe a emulator II key.

And with his Momma.

Awww... my SID Synth had a baby. how cute. (Yep, and I've s t i l l gotta put wood sides on the dad.)