Futureman

Thats pretty expensive for what it is.. It also only does +/-12v (Only at 300mA or 0.3A).. You still need the +5 volt for the core which on a 6582 pulls over 1.2A on the 5v rail. Regards Mike

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MP3108&keywords=power+supply&form=KEYWORD This is from a local electronics store in Australia.. A touch expensive, but delayed switch on / switch off, low profile, zero heat. I'm sure you could find something similar locally. Regards Mike

I don't have my Seq with me (I'm at work) but from memory, doesn't one stay for one more step on the outer steps, ie 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,16,15,14,13,12,11,10,9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1,1,2.... and the other 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,15,14,13,12,11,10,9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1,2,3,4... Regards Mike edit - BAH.. beaten.

I used a switchmode PS in my SID synth.. http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,12413.75.html The Power Supply I used has a 5v & 12v output.. I regulated the 12v down to 9v for the SIDs. After A-B'ing it with a commodore 64 PS and the switchmode PS and I could not hear any difference in background noise etc.. Just my $.02, your results may vary. Regards Mike

I hope you are not getting annoyed with my questions etc TK.. but I've got another. ;] I use the "All" button quite a bit... (Well, my sequencers are at the hub of my setup) I've found myself, sometimes selecting a track that does not have a step in it while the "All" button is enabled. This currently switches on that step, but switches off all the other active steps. Is it possible that I can deactivate this sort of "inversion" of the steps? I realise I can should just make sure that the "All" button is off before I select a empty step, but it does seem counter intuative that pressing a un-active step would switch off all the active steps when "All" is on. As always, the kindest of regards Mike

Get a tape splicing kit.. or a razor and some splicing tape. Get an old 8track cassette. Take out the tape and join it with the tape.. (google how to properly splice tape) Good score!

Ben Heck's work is pretty damn cool.. His portable 2600's are pretty special.. def one of my 'too do' things on my list.

Maybe your PS is sagging under load? I had one that would sometimes work, sometime not. When you measure it directly (under no load) it'll show 5v+ ? But when you measure it while plugged into your 6582 it's showing less? my $0.02 Regards Mike

It might be a cheapy, but most vero is like that if your iron is too hot or if you apply heat for too long... Especially if you are desoldering. I buy the cheapest of the cheap, and it works fine for me.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/8-PROTO-TYPE-PCB-CIRCUIT-PANEL-SOLDER-DIY-90X70-BOARD_W0QQitemZ120321231927QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools?hash=item1c03b44c37&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 The above link is not strip board, but individual pads that you can link with solder or whatever. Search for protoboard or veroboard. If a pad has lifted, then all is not lost, you could still solder a wire to that pin on the switch. Regards Mike

yep, thats pretty normal. whats more, when you solder to the underside, as the solder cools, it will contract, pulling the board the other way. Make sure your vero is supported correctly with appropriate spacers / screw / nuts etc and it'll be fine and secure. Regards Mike

Congratulations! Your first question should probably be how to spell the companies name correctly.. lol (I know, I'm being a dick) (Seriously, tho, I'm jealous... )

Do you really 'need' a tempo light? (No disrespect) I'm just not that sure what a light blinking in time with the beat will achieve? If you are in bassline mode or drum mode, it's pretty obvious where the beat is.. (you get a nice scrolling led on the matrix) But that is for the MB-6582.. Regards Mike

Friggin hell! So organic... well done!

haha.. your a champion as always TK! Best regards Mike

Hey there, sorry to resurect this old thread, but I only recently uploaded the most recent version of the SEQ3 OS (3.4d) with a few changes for me (J5 gates enabled etc). It seems the 'sync to measure' throws the pattern out less than a step.. I also noticed that if i put a note at the start, the note gets stuttered, if you know what i mean? I do dig the sync to measure, because you can throw in any odd timing and know that in say 64 steps it'll get thrown back in sync. TK, I can imagine you are mainly concentrating on V4 (Which i'm can't wait to take for a spin) , but if you have the time, please re-visit this and see if you can fix up the 'sync to measure' (That is unless it's something to do with me being an idiot and missing something) Kind regards Mike

hmmmm..... blue things.

cool. have you considered how you are going to mount them to your case? My 2cents of advice would be to keep it simple for now.. just make it work in a cardboard box etc with simple (& cheap) buttons. Then after you have got it all working 100% and played with it for 100 hours, then you might better judge how you want to proceed with your 'finished' product... don't get caught up with the smaller details but look at the big picture which is - make it work & make noises.. Kind regards Mike

ha.. I've got some aluminium knobs with timber veneer on the top of them.. sounds crap, but they came from a damn classy stereo and they look bitchin.

Yep, those buttons are bottom of the barrel as far as i'm concerned. I'm in AU too, and Jaycar are not t h a t bad... yep, a touch pricey, but easy & local. I get most of my parts off ebay tho.. buttons are pretty easy to come by.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-RED-Momentary-OFF-ON-Push-Button-Horn-Switch-R33B_W0QQitemZ300108334847QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Connectors_Switches_Wire?hash=item300108334847&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A4%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A200 These are at jaycar too, but compare da price.. try the feel at jaycar, then buy online.. thats what I do anyway. Regards Mike (Sydney) edit- I see you need a small footprint for your buttons.. maybe these? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/5-Momentary-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-N-C-N-O-Push-Switch-3P1_W0QQitemZ300296705858QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item300296705858&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A4%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A200 they are a bit better quality than the ones you suggested..

hehe.. I had a sneaking suspicion your meter was acting a bit wrong.

Hey, just out of interest, when you put your multimeter to AC and measure the voltage across a 9V battery, what do you get? Regards Mike

Just out of interest, I actually got hold of an original CS-5 Service manual. (I do have a bad habit of collecting manuals & service manuals for stuff I have) If you are still working on this, and have any specific questions, let me know, I might be able to help you out. And before anyone asks for me to scan the whole manual, I'll preface by saying it has many fold out inserts etc and one massive fold out block diagram / schematic. Regards Mike

I'll prob use these for my frankenstein drum machine http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4-Sequential-Circuits-Tact-Led-Switches-Prophet-5-PB86_W0QQitemZ120314721650QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Connectors_Switches_Wire?hash=item120314721650&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177 They are expensive for 4, but HKSS is good when you ask them to invoice you for custom amounts. I used these in one of my sequencers, and I do like them. They are the same size as used in much oberheim gear, NOT any sequential gear as the add might have you believe (They are wider than Prophet 5 buttons) Regards Mike

I thought of two (Possibly) simple thing that I'd really like implemented. 1- Many of my synths don't have the ability to turn Local "Off".. It makes it a bit tricky sometimes while recording in a riff / pattern real time or even step time to hear the "Doubling" up of notes etc because the synth plays itself (When I hit the keys) and also the sequencer plays them a fraction later. If there was an option in the record page that could turn OFF/ON the 'immediate echo' of notes being recorded in that would be SUPER DUPER. 2- Also, Is it possible to distinguish what Midi input is being recorded etc? (ie the Core or IIC1 or both) Currently it's both. This can make for fustrations as I use the Core's midi in to supply clock, but sometimes it also has note info in it.. arghh. My lame trick is to stick a TR-707 in the way, which strips any note info, but passes on clock (And is also a fine punchy drum machine) I hope this makes sense?

I had a few weird things when I got mine going, but it was all because I didn't have a face for it, and didn't remember what each knob was.. A few of the knobs (Depending on the page) do not show up on the screen when changed, as do a few of the buttons.. I assume this is what you are talking about? Regards Mike