Building Sasha's x0xb0x

[Kartoshka]

Just find normal DC adapter and connect the wires directly to the trafo secondary.

please, say what? ...   ???

[Sasha]

lexan paper isn't it ? beautiful 8)

No, it is not Lexan. It is Rowmark (french company) Texture. It is material based on acrylic for outdor usage with special coatings to protect it from UV and other weather conditions. It is extremely scratch proof. I think Lexan overlays are printed, my panel is laser engraved.

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please, say what? ...   ???

Vlad, why you think there are something risky about doing it? There are only 2 wires going out of the transformer. As you don`t wanna use any electronic just solder the wires before rectifycation diodes or remove the PCB completely as you don`t need it. Thet is what I did. I`d let  my mother do it with no worry.

[Kartoshka]

ok, i got what you mean, i think?

The problem is that PSUs i have here are way different, and i don't understand that much in them. those are much smaller, weighting about 50-100g, like those from cellphones, laptops, scanners printers and zip drives.

Are those useful too?

[Sasha]

No, use a wallwart DC adapter, not naked transformer. You don`t wanna make any kind of housing, don`t you?

EDIT:

This is the phone adapter I modified

[Kartoshka]

i'd like to go with wallwarts, yep... the problem is the components inside [those psu's i have seen] are bizarre!  8)

will keep on looking

[Sasha]

Just desolder the PCB and you`ll left with only 2 wires. Don`t use the adapters that has multiple voltages. Find single voltage adapter and you`ll have no problems find 2 wires. ;)

[julienvoirin]

[those psu's i have seen] are bizarre! 

you talk about "switching PSU" ? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

you don't need that stuff ! Sasha is right, the best is to get a very basic 9V DC supply, already prepared to plug in the wall, opening it, removing the diodes and the capacitor used to transform the AC in DC, and directly connecting the wire to the power jack for the x0xb0x.

[Kartoshka]

why modify if you can have original? and for free, too?  :P

edit: china meets china...  ;)

[Sasha]

That one looks right, and it can deliver enough juice so you can illuminate whole box. ;)

[Kartoshka]

naaaaaa-a-a-a-aaaasty!  :P didn't think of that. will see where this route gonna take us.

[julienvoirin]

enough juice

my stock x0x works with a AC adapter : 7V (8,9peak) 320 mA.

[Sasha]

It works, but I would feel bad to supply it with just 7V. 320mA is fine if normal LEDs are used.

[julienvoirin]

not the sasa x0x but the Julien's x0xWASP a custom model based on the Ladyada PCB  8)

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[Goblinz]

Nice paint job!

[Sasha]

not the sasa x0x but the Julien's x0xWASP a custom model based on the Ladyada PCB  8)

...then, this is a wrong thread to post it. :)

Anyway, looking good. Do you think the color on the buttons will last? Even it is paint for plastics I doubt it.

What do you connect to DB port?

[malekko]

Well, after lots of building, i decided to give you guys the first peek at my progress as i'm waiting for my rare parts and two knobs to arrive.

A couple of things for people who haven't built it, 3mm LEDs instead of 5mm, (the original x0x calls for 5mm, so if you go off the BOM for the x0x, change this) The stansoffs should be a little different, 3/8 is a little much, i just bought some 5/16 (they're not here yet) and i think that should be good...i'll update everyone once its done. LED standoffs, dont use the ones on the BOM...they arent tall enough.

Here are a couple of pics, i liked the "slimmer" look of Sashas so i did it...the dark part is silver although you cant tell because it's dark.

I'm building two, they are going to be gifts one for my business partner (Paul Barker formerly Ministry etc) and the other for our employee Dwayne Dassing (Mentallo and the fixer)

[Sasha]

For those of you that like to use 5mm LEDs, you can widen panel LED holes. I tried it today on a panel leftover... it is not fragile. But, pay more atention on subpanel. Use sharp drill bit and slow penetration. I advise you to have some piece of wood under the subpanel if you are using handheld drill.

[malekko]

i would not recommend drilling these, the numbers are too close to the holes, so if you drill it it would look very bad, just keep them 3mm.

[Goblinz]

Use sharp drill bit and slow penetration.

Fnaaaar fnaar.  :P

[nebula]

Another word to those building:

Most projects that use trim pots work best with multi-turn pots, similar to those used on the AOUT board variants.  Sometimes, a single-turn pot works best, like for the brightness/contrast on a Core (where you don't really need ultra-fine control).

If you're sourcing parts, and you have a choice, use multi-turn pots for your x0xb0x.  Having just calibrated my power supply and VCO, I can tell you that plain ol' cermet pots are a bloody nuisance, ESPECIALLY in the x0xb0x.

My status:  I think I may get all the electronics done tonight, leaving only hardware issues (spacers etc) for tomorrow.  My (completed) VCF section is not making a sound when tested according to the instructions on Ladyada's site, but I'm still trying to retrace my steps...

[Sasha]

Another word to those building:

Most projects that use trim pots work best with multi-turn pots, similar to those used on the AOUT board variants.  Sometimes, a single-turn pot works best, like for the brightness/contrast on a Core (where you don't really need ultra-fine control).

If you're sourcing parts, and you have a choice, use multi-turn pots for your x0xb0x.  Having just calibrated my power supply and VCO, I can tell you that plain ol' cermet pots are a bloody nuisance, ESPECIALLY in the x0xb0x.

I agree and I just don`t understand why Limor haven`t use the multiturn trimmer, or at least leave enough space so one could install it. I soldered multiturn trimmer tilted and with some wires to the power PCB but as it looked bad I removed it. I wished I had more eagle knowledge at the time I was working on PCB. I would change it much more. Probably some better design will happened when time comes.

Good luck with troubleshooting.  ;)

[nebula]

Thanks :)

Troubleshooting was easy.  I didn't notice that the level coming from the VCF is much lower, so I needed to adjust my scope.  Duh...

[Sasha]

You had luck. Adjusting the scope was much easier to do than kartoshka`s troubleshooting procedure.  :P

[Kartoshka]

:P

[nebula]

As luck would have it, I had 7x 10mm aluminum hex spacers on hand.  After assembling the panel against the board, I decided I needed 8 mm.  (I cut my pot shafts fairly short I suppose, but it was suitable for the Sifam knobs).

Rather than ordering a set of 8 mm spacers, I filed my existing spacers down to 8 mm (+/- .5 mm).

Then I went to attach the panel. Unfortunately, the little square hole in the sub-panel for the toggle switch prevents the sub-panel from going low enough.  So I think I'm going to remove  a bit of material from the sub-panel. I might just hacksaw off that corner of the subpanel - after all, the corner of the main panel will still be supported by the PT-10.