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Mongbox Enclosure

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Hi All,

In my build thread I designed and built a Ponoko enclosure and promised to make it public with a proper thread on it. That enclosure had some bugs which prevented me doing so until I'd revised and verified the design. So here it is. Nearly.

This enclosure is designed to reduce the amount of screws exposed on the top panel as much as possible without deviating too far from the original Wilba/Midibox design. To make it fit you will need some extra parts listed below. It comes with an option for rear panel power switch and socket cutouts. Also included is a "Paintme" piece for testing label painting.

Parts Required

  • All screws, spacers and standoffs are m3 (3mm thread)
  • 10mm screws and nuts. I like black hex socket heads.
  • 1x 25mm standoff (f/f)
  • 1x 5mm standoff (m/f)
  • Many 10mm standoff/spacers
    • If using 10mm spacers beneath top panel you'll need 20mm screws to reach the standoffs under the CS)
  • 4x 35mm standoffs
  • 2x 10pin angled IDC male connectors

Note: You can make up standoffs from smaller lengths. Buy a kit from ebay around 200 pieces for <$10


SVG's on Github





Edited by mongrol
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#2 Painting


The template includes a handy "Paintme" piece for you to practise painting the engraved labels. The last time I used hobby enamel paint and it worked great. Paint over the engravinga, wait a minute for it to dry a little then wipe over with a nail polish remover (acetone) on a soft cloth. Generally you need to do this about 3 times to get a good fill.

I've tested painting with both paper on and paper off. The results are almost identical but the process with the paper on is so much faster. Don't be afraid to dollop the paint on. It'll dry in and you'll have a good fill. Peel the paper off and scratch off the little letter loop paper dots with your nail. Borrow someone with nails if you don't have any. Children are good for this.

Afterwards you'll probably find little artifacts where the paint is thin. Paint over these, wait a minute then wipe off the excess with some paper towel and nail polish remover (acetone).


Edited by mongrol
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#3 Base Layout and Standoffs

The core sits on the left with the 2 MIDIIO's underneath the displays. The top panel only has holes for the corner standoffs and 2 along the long sides (rear panel are keyhole nut/bolt style). All the other holes can be used to hold the Wilba CS upwards without being exposed on the top panel. I only use the ones in the picture below but there are plenty spare if you like that extra structural stability. You can use a 30mm to CS then 10mm (male downwards) standoff to top panel. This gives good rigidity without needing more holes in the top panel. Recommended if you're a gigger.

Fixings detail

  • The Core and MIDIIO's are on 2-3mm spacers. I use m3 nuts.
  • All CS standoffs are 30mm with the exception of....
  • ...the front left standoff on the core is 26mm (3mm spacer + 2mm core + 1mm washer + 25mm standoff + 2mm CS + 10mm = 42mm)
  • From the CS to the top panel you need 10mm standoffs. This gives nice clearance for buttons. You can experiment here.
  • The displays sit on 35mm standoffs.
  • The back right display corner needs a 5mm standoff/spacer to the top panel. This is a corner bolt.

Other Notes

  • The sides are 43mm high.
  • All my standoffs are female both ends with the exception of the 5mm LCD->Panel which is male downwards.
  • Plastic spacers can be used instead of hex standoffs but are hella tricky to insert.
  • Ensure everything is tight. You have multiple parts screwed end to end. A middle one could come loose and spin leaving you stuck on the outside. :happy:



Edited by mongrol
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#4 Displays

This is where a custom part comes in. The displays sit on top of 35mm stand offs in order to not having any bolts on the top panel. However, this means the standard vertical IDC connector can't fit between the standoffs. So we need to fit an angled one, and it needs to go the right direction. These are just as common as vertical ones and can be picked up at mouser or any leccy store.

Observe the angle of the pins. They aren't quite right angled but point down a little. The is to allow the IDC female socket connector space to fit between the pins and the PCB which sometimes has little springs or other components.


  • Solder the pins in place with a female socket connector on the pins. This ensures proper clearance from the display PCB
  • If desoldering existing vertical pins be GENTLE and SLOW. Oled's especially DO NOT LIKE HEAT. Snip the pin array into little separate pins and desolder carefully.



Here they are mounted. Note the 5mm standoff on the back right corner.


Edited by mongrol
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#5 Power Socket and Switch

teUSB power for the SEQ is rubbish. It ties up a socket that could be driving a synth (more synths!!!) so Mongbox comes has a back panel option with switch and DC socket holes.

These are fairly standard 6mm DC jack and a 19x13mm rocker switch.

  • Make sure you remove the USB power jumper
  • Ensure your external power supply is 5v only. STFM04 won't take more.
  • Get the polarity round the right way.
  • Route the positive through the switch.


Edited by mongrol
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#6 Finished

Here's the finished result fully assembled with dark grey tinted glass inserted. I don't gig so these just sit in instead of gluing with acrylic glue. I've tweaked the glass template so future cuts may snap in tighter.



Thanks go to some named person who I've still neglected to credit properly in all my threads for the initial Ponoko panel template. :)



Edited by mongrol
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

So it turns out my SVG files are barfed if you open them in Inkscape. This is due to Illustrator missing some scaling information that Inkscape needs when it saves it out. I've uploaded a fixed version with "test" in the name that should open properly in Inkscape.

Disclaimer: The $150 laser costs are at your own risk. I haven't had anything cut with the "test" file.

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Thanks for figuring this out!  I had already started working from the "test" file when I received this reply from Dan at Ponoko:

"Looks like the templates are causing issues in the new version of Inkscape. The easiest solution is to copy and paste the designs into a new template and then scale up the artwork by 124.999%.  It should be at the right scale after that."

I'm just going to continue working from "test", but this info might be useful for others 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi, thanks for this great enclosure. I am unable to open the scale-corrected version in Inkscape, and I don't have Illustrator. Also, I get the error message at ponoko when I try to upload it. Is it possible to get an updated version, or perhaps a DXF?



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On 3/28/2018 at 2:49 AM, goyousalukis said:

Hi, thanks for this great enclosure. I am unable to open the scale-corrected version in Inkscape, and I don't have Illustrator. Also, I get the error message at ponoko when I try to upload it. Is it possible to get an updated version, or perhaps a DXF?



Are you sure your downloaded the "raw" file from github? If you rightclick the file and save you'll end up with an html page instead of the actual file.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The glass is 3mm dark grey acrylic. Cut at Ponoko along with rest of it. It's sized very slightly larger than the hole to include the laser's width (called kerf). So the finished product should just fit into the hole snugly and not fall out. You just pop them in. Well, that was the plan. But kerf factor is variable on all sorts of things so my first attempt fell out when turned upside down. I don't gig so I just left it like that.

I don't have my Midibox anymore so can't send you close ups.

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