dwestbury Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) I'm following the updated Base PCB Construction guide, which includes this "one power supply" topic as Option E As I read and re-read that material, my newbie mind is a little confused about about some of the notes, related to the different power supply options. I'd really appreciate any insight on the questions below... Question 1: If I'm using Power Supply Option E, is it safe to assume that I can completely omit many the components outlined in the notes below for Options A, B or C, as only some replacements are called out in the Option E build guide (such as C3 & C4)? 1. Parts B1, C1, C2, C3, C4, C11, C12, J1, V1, S1 are for PSU Options A or B. 2. Parts V2, V3 are for PSU Option B only (for +9v and +12v supplies, mixing 8580/6582 and 6581 SIDs. 3. Parts C13, C14, J73, J74, V4 are for PSU Option C only. Question 2: For the components that are skipped, do I need to jumper any of the open connections (e.g., I assume jumpers are needed for C13 & C14)? Question 3: Further up in this thread, there's mention of the power switch being disabled whenever a MIDI cable is plugged-in. Adding the bridge rectifier (B1) back into the build was suggested as a possible fix. Has this been tested and confirmed? Thank you! Edited March 4, 2020 by dwestbury Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_duckchild Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 On 3/2/2020 at 10:43 PM, dwestbury said: Question 3: Further up in this thread, there's mention of the power switch being disabled whenever a MIDI cable is plugged-in. Adding the bridge rectifier (B1) back into the build was suggested as a possible fix. Has this been tested and confirmed? Thank you! It's actually plugging an audio lead into the separate outs that is causing this on my build, and I'm pretty sure it's something I've caused myself rather than something inherent in option "E" as it doesn't seem to repeat on other builds. Have not attempted putting the bridge rectifier back as not really causing me any issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_duckchild Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 I'm going to let someone else answer the other Q's for certain as I didn't even get it right... but if you didn't see this as well as this thread it might help:http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582_psuopte Don't take this as gospel, but IIRC I don't think C13/C14 need jumpers, they were originally smoothing power so they're just between the power input and ground. Option E means they're now the other side of the voltage reg, so they're pointless, but them being missing doesn't interrupt the circuit. In fact, on that basis putting jumpers across them to ground would be bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwestbury Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 @the_duckchild Really appreciate the insight re C13 / C14... My newbie mind assumed that leaving them empty would cause an open circuit... guessing they're in parallel vs series.. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwestbury Posted March 7, 2020 Report Share Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) Answering my own questions: 1. Yes, all those Components in the notes can be completely omitted 2. No additional bridges / jumpers are needed beyond the ones that are explicitly called out in the Option E how to guide. 3. I went ahead and added the bridge rectifier back into the build, “just in case”. At $0.59, it wasn’t a big deal. So now, my Base PCB came together nicely and all voltage checks are looking good! Sincerely appreciate the wealth of tips and insights available in these forums. Many thanks to @jaytee and @Altitude for this deceptively simple power supply option. Now I’m off to follow the @Hawkeye control surface build guide... Cheers all! Edited March 9, 2020 by dwestbury Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
necro2607 Posted February 4, 2021 Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 Hey @dwestbury -- looking at your photo you have the header at J1A.. I assume this setup was only during the build (correct me if I'm wrong) ... What did you end up doing for the final product? Did you put a DIN socket and use a DIN plug for your power supply like others on here, or did you do something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwestbury Posted February 4, 2021 Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 1 hour ago, necro2607 said: Hey @dwestbury -- looking at your photo you have the header at J1A.. I assume this setup was only during the build (correct me if I'm wrong)... Yes, exactly. I had the headers in place as an interim step, while I waited for 7P circular DIN connectors to show up in the mail. The final Base PCB build looks like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
necro2607 Posted February 4, 2021 Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 2 minutes ago, dwestbury said: Yes, exactly. I had the headers in place as an interim step, while I waited for 7P circular DIN connectors to show up in the mail. The final Base PCB build looks like this: Ahhh nice, OK, I was leaning towards this approach and I think you helped me finalize that choice. haha :) Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6040 Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Hi all I am trying to follow this instruction to get a mixed sid setup working. I did everything until the following part. In the instructions it says: - You must install an additional jumper wire between the input of V3 and the main 15V line. J72 pin 1 is an obvious place to connect to V3, and the J25 pin “9V-11V” (possibly unused pad) or pin 1 of V1 (shortest possible jumper) are good places to connect to the 15V line, though you have plenty of choices. I am certainly no expert in soldering but on my pcb there is already a connection between the square pin of V3 and J72 pin 1. Did I make a bad solder connection somewhere or is this normal? Thanks 60/40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6040 Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 Hi all I figured it out myself after reading the sentence a hundred times. So this one will not be soldered but connected with a removable cable instead. Any particular reason for this? Cheers 60/40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaytee Posted September 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 Sorry, could be clearer I guess. I’ll break it down. You need a connection between V3’s input and 15V. Yes, as you say, J72 is already connected to V3’s input. I am not instructing you to connect these two points. I am just telling you that J72 is a convenient place to solder a jumper wire. With a wire connected to J72 at one end and 15V on the other end, you will have successfully made the connection between V3’s input and 15V. Not sure what you mean in your second comment there. Solder it all, no need for a removable cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubber Posted November 26, 2021 Report Share Posted November 26, 2021 (edited) FIXED! Sorry I had put in c2,4, 11 and 12 as in the original pics and these are not required silly! And as you can guess from.my measurements below generate 12v Apologies Ignore comments below this ;) Having problems with this myself :( Going for the 8580 exclusively so it will require 9v and 5v measurements I have installed v1 as the recommended 7809 and at v4 the 5v recom 1.5a but on measuring I am getting 12v in and out on the 7809, and the same.on the 5v recom? I have everything as in the pictures and jumpers underneath soldered with wire as in the guide? any ideas? I'm using a 12v dc multiadapter with +12v on the pin and the - on the 0v pin? But using a multiadapter had +12v and -12v on each side doesn't it? What have I done wrong? thanks Edited November 26, 2021 by scrubber Mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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