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Everything posted by dwestbury

  1. You could chose to tap the primary Arm2SID and route the cables yourself to get into 2nd / 3rd SID capabilities. Having the second (dummy) Arm2SID is a convenient choice for intercepting chip select and routing audio-out for a second SID. There's some fairly useful documentation on the site: https://www.retrocomp.cz/produkt?id=20
  2. I guess I should also add that the Arm2SID is capable of emulating up to 3 SIDs and includes FM synthesis capabilities... These features won't matter much for a MIDIbox SID build, but hey, they're solid extra features for your C64 ;-)
  3. The recommendation to modify the board was based on speculation. This turned out not to be necessary in my testing... You can simply drop the Arm2SID set into the required sockets and jam away. The second (dummy) Arm2SID is basically only there to intercept the Chip Select signal and pass it along to the active Arm2SID, which performs it's double-duty, then passes the audio-out for the second SID back via the bridge cable. I'd imagine that the only real reason that someone might want to purchase an Arm2SID over two regular ArmSIDs is to save a little money. The Arm2SID set costs ~48
  4. The status text should show that Programming and Verification are complete.
  5. This process can be very frustrating when you're trying to figure out where a particular problem is. My own posts in these forums can certainly attest to that. I spent days and days struggling through various dead ends, until I finally found a process that ultimately worked well for me (e.g., the document linked above). Along the way, I realized that the MIDI interface I was trying to use (a Native Instruments Komplete Audio 6 Mk2) was not properly passing SysEx messages to my PICs via MIOS. This was one of my first issues. Unfortunately, I had completely destroyed my PIC and base PC
  6. Good to hear you nailed it. Cheers and congrats.
  7. From the same spec doc (link above), you can get a sense of the power supply current draw and total power dissipation to expect. 6581 SID Characteristics Stresses above those listed under “Absolute Maximum Ratings” may cause permanent damage to the device. These are stress ratings only. Functional operation of this device at these or any other conditions above those indicated in the operational sections of this specification is not implied and exposure to absolute maximum rating conditions for extended periods may affect device reliability. Unfortunately I'm not qui
  8. That minor of a variation shouldn't be a problem. According to the specs posted here: https://www.waitingforfriday.com/?p=661, the 6581 can handle 17v, although I'd never risk that! Given that your SwinSIDs are working properly, you shouldn't have to worry about your audio out (SID pin 27) or the amplifier circuitry, but you could still have an issue with either your filters capacitors (C1L, C1R, C2L, C2R) or your audio-in path (J6LR 1/4" jack for Audio in, or either C6L or C6R). SwinSIDs don't use external filter caps and they don't support external audio in, so issues in these are
  9. If you're following the official sammichSID build guide (http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=projects:sammichSID_build_guide_v1_0.zip), you will have undoubtedly noticed the voltage test chart on page 18. The chart is great, but it's slightly incomplete, in that it leaves out the voltage test for VDD in the upper right corners of the SID sockets, which should read ~12v for 6581s or ~9v for 8580s respectively. Here's an updated chart that includes the additional test points. According to the build guide, a 12v reading is ideal, but any read
  10. Depending on where you're located, the back and forth shipping costs, combined with the costs of cores themselves, could make the whole process untenable. It might be cheaper for you if I simply create four fully functional cores, with: > Bootloader v1.2b > MIOS 1.9H > MB-6582 Firmware (e.g., setup_mb6582.hex) > Individual device IDs (e.g., 0 - 3) This would cost about $50 USD + shipping (in a CORSTAT antistatic box). Cheers, -Darrell
  11. dwestbury


    What version of the MB6582 PCB are you using? I’m noticing a more open layout, with a bunch of smaller SMD parts.
  12. Agree with @m00dawg regarding the need to specify that the PICKIT should provide power to the Chip during programming. That’s spelled out on page 2 of the doc I linked to above...
  13. That’s awesome @m00dawg. Glad to hear that this approach worked out and your long standing project is moving ahead! Cheers...
  14. The jumper settings you chose on the expansion board pictured should follow the recommendations printed on the bottom of the board for a DIP 40 IC (e.g. a dual inline package chip, with 40 pins) > J1 = A > J2 = pins 2 & 3 > J3 = pins 2 & 3
  15. Couldn't agree more... In hindsight I made 2 rookie mistakes: 1) only buying the 150 ohm SMD resistors (leaving myself with no choices) and... 2) testing with a 6.6v battery source, because I was only concerned with functionality and I didn't even think about final state brightness levels while I was building Now I'm thinking that a useful course correction could be to install one of these thumbwheel pots into the side of my case, since that would allow me to adjust the LED levels to taste, depending on room brightness, etc. Keep everyone posted if I ever get
  16. Encoder backlighting could add as much as ~840mA in power draw to your MB-6582 (e.g., ~14 encoders with 3 * SMD LEDs @ 20mA peak ea.) Before I decided to go for it, I measured the total load of my MB-6582 @ ~650-700mA, which included the mainboard (with 8x 8580 R5 SIDs) and the standard fully populated control surface. My build is using the RECOM 5v SREG @ 1.5A (mouser: 919-R-78B5.0-1.5), which still has plenty of headway, but I decided to tap into the 9v line anyway, based suggestions in Dale's documentation (https://github.com/dwhinham/encoder-backlight-pcb). As I mentioned a
  17. These RGB char displays use 18 pins instead of the standard 16, which means there's separate power input for Red, Green and Blue. I posted a pic in the gallery of the approach I took with one of my MB-6582's. Basically I was able to use a single pot on a tiny piece of protoboard to send variable power into Green pin. I sent the full 5v source into the Red pin, then used the pot to mix in a bit of Green and voila, a nice Amber color that nicely matched my LEDs ;-)
  18. If you need a standard LCD color, like green or blue, I’d suggest sourcing from AliExpress, because you can get a few of them for ~$3 USD each. If you need a unique color like Orange/Amber, I’d suggest getting the Adafruit RGB display and connecting your 5v power source to each of the RGB inputs through a set of 3 * 10K pots, which you can adjust individually to achieve the exact color desired.
  19. Humbled to be part of such a distinguished group! Appreciate all the effort to demystify the process and make the tools approachable :-) -Darrell
  20. The procedure here might be useful: https://1drv.ms/w/s!AtmSvwylfFJaggnN1TtalEzGQK1C?e=sRlAiG
  21. As far as I know, ARMSID emulates the latest 6581 and 8580 releases (R4AR and R5 respectively), so the best sounding versions of each chip. Delta was definitely composed for the 6581, whereas my ARMSIDs are setup to emulate an 8580, so there's going to be some character differences there. I also have a pair of SwinSID Ultimates coming in the mail (one of these days) from Poly.play, so it'll be interesting to hear how they stack up.
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