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My new favorite word: Lazertran


Altitude

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Here is an other site that has some info on the use of lazetran + some other tips on making front panels.

Yeah, saw that.  that is the old lasertran which you have to bake.  the new stuff is just water and clear coat.  Plus the lasertran results they got look awful

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Yeah, saw that.  that is the old lasertran which you have to bake.  the new stuff is just water and clear coat.  Plus the lasertran results they got look awful

jeeez... that looks like shite. i hope i will get better results. what do you mean with "old lazertran". as far as i got it the baking process is optional to give a more durable result. i was also planning on doing it this way.

on their pix it looks like it is impossible to get a dark surface without bubbles and scratches, but when you look at the whole stuff they built all the devices have black fronts with just the lines scales and letter in alu-color. can anyone recomend covering big areas with black color with lazertran. i have my panel made from satin stainless VA-Steel and i might do it like that. but if the results are that bad it might be better to apply black lines on the brushed (or white sprayed) panel

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Well, he says that the temperature was too high and that he baked it too long. But I also think that the printer that he uses isn't all that good (too little toner).

If you follow the "Tips from another DIYer." link on that page you can read and see the experiences of an other DIYer.

This looks much better (as far as I can tell from the pictures).

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what sort of lazertran is preferable for frontpanels? laser or inkjet? It seems like these are completely different mechanisms. If i understand it correctly laser has to be printed mirrored, while the other has not. It is also stated on the site that the background of the inkjet version becomes white which implies that this material is thicker than the laser version.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok. i now have everything ready for order. i still have another question before i spend my money on lazertran. the new lazertran seems to be non-transparent, producing a white background. they say you can make it trasparent with a varnish, but does anyone haven an experience of how transparent it will be? as i sais i have a shiny steel surface that should appear as "natural" as possible, where not covered. btw. at the office we have one of those printers/copiers that is listed to be compatible with the old lazertran.

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LMFAO! all pics have over 1000 views, except one:

I also couldn't help but notice the name was a bit "casual" about rinsing the ferric chloride soaked enclosure in his sink. ;D

I've stained many things with etchant which should've been weak and diluted enough not to do anything. Still have a nice line down a stainless steel sink at my aunt's house from a droplet of "mostly water".

Thanks too for the links. I had read that tip on cutting air relief holes in prints before, but had forgotten about it. I'll remember that on my next transfer. Bubbles are something I've always had trouble with.

So is sanded "slush" from the spray paint,etc. all that guy puts in the etched areas? I like that look. I've been into aluminum with black text lately, but am doing the toner directly to the metal and leaving it on. I'd like to see how clean a print I can get with the etched method.

BTW- Unfortunately, it looks like that nice muriatic acid post was one of the casualties of Friday the 13th.  :'(

I had to etch with some again the other night and went looking for it. Can't find a local copy either, but could've sworn I saved it.

Take Care,

George

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nah i don't think that would happen, the reason the air bubbles get stuck, is because the transfer sticks to the metal/whatever. if it's all done underwater, any water bubbles stuck underneath would soften the glue around themselves, and should pass out unhindered. try it out, and post your results.  ;D

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Yeah,

Thanks for the cool link! ;) Must try ecthing a frontpanel sometime. (only done it to make paint stick better to the aluminium)

Props for noticing that modnaR! I was rather disappointed to see it, although hopefully people read the message, and just didn't open the pic :)

Actually, I disagree a bit. Lets say, the strong points of the FeCl are: It smells sorta bad, it stains everything - But it's not really that poisonous or environmentally harmful.

I'm not saying You should try it as a blender for Your favourite Vodka or to do etching in Yer moms kitchen sink, but used and diluded solution can be easily disposed. Probably the domestic cleaning fluids You're using to TRY rinse off FeCl stains are more hazardous to You and the environment.

Moebius

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