dwestbury

Cheers @Hawkeye! Not to change topics, but I really appreciate all the hard work you put into the control surface build guide. Super clear steps and photos - very nicely detailed... I actually copied it into a Word doc for my offline reading. Happy to share the file if there's interest. Best!

Not sure if this is 100% accurate, but I put together a simple chart to follow when testing voltages on the Base PCB. Clearly inspired by the sammichSID Construction Guide ;-) It's showing 9v on the SID sockets for 6582 / 8580 SIDs, whereas 6581s would clearly require 12v on those pins. Cheers...

Answering my own questions: 1. Yes, all those Components in the notes can be completely omitted 2. No additional bridges / jumpers are needed beyond the ones that are explicitly called out in the Option E how to guide. 3. I went ahead and added the bridge rectifier back into the build, “just in case”. At $0.59, it wasn’t a big deal. So now, my Base PCB came together nicely and all voltage checks are looking good! Sincerely appreciate the wealth of tips and insights available in these forums. Many thanks to @jaytee and @Altitude for this deceptively simple power supply option. Now I’m off to follow the @Hawkeye control surface build guide... Cheers all!

@the_duckchild Really appreciate the insight re C13 / C14... My newbie mind assumed that leaving them empty would cause an open circuit... guessing they're in parallel vs series.. Cheers

I'm following the updated Base PCB Construction guide, which includes this "one power supply" topic as Option E As I read and re-read that material, my newbie mind is a little confused about about some of the notes, related to the different power supply options. I'd really appreciate any insight on the questions below... Question 1: If I'm using Power Supply Option E, is it safe to assume that I can completely omit many the components outlined in the notes below for Options A, B or C, as only some replacements are called out in the Option E build guide (such as C3 & C4)? 1. Parts B1, C1, C2, C3, C4, C11, C12, J1, V1, S1 are for PSU Options A or B. 2. Parts V2, V3 are for PSU Option B only (for +9v and +12v supplies, mixing 8580/6582 and 6581 SIDs. 3. Parts C13, C14, J73, J74, V4 are for PSU Option C only. Question 2: For the components that are skipped, do I need to jumper any of the open connections (e.g., I assume jumpers are needed for C13 & C14)? Question 3: Further up in this thread, there's mention of the power switch being disabled whenever a MIDI cable is plugged-in. Adding the bridge rectifier (B1) back into the build was suggested as a possible fix. Has this been tested and confirmed? Thank you!

You definitely don't need all of those voltage regulators. it all depends on which of the power supply options you go with. As of now, there appear to be 5 options (A-E). Personally, I've gone with option E, which is by far the simplest. It uses a basic 12v 1.5A "wall wart" supply and a swItching voltage regulator (SREG), which I've edited into the parts table in my previous post. Cheers.

Apologies if this is redundant, but I didn't see a similar post anywhere else in the forum, so I thought I'd share.. As I started to piece together my bill of materials for an MB-6582, I realized I would have to do a lot of sorting and counting from the tables in the wiki. I decided to copy & paste into a spreadsheet for easier pivoting and here's what I came up > Covers parts for the Base PCB only > Assumes 4xCore Modules & 4 x SIDs (either 6582 or 8580, not including regulator parts for 6581) > Uses power supply option E Description Value Qty. Part Sourcing Links Base PCB MB-6582-BS 1 https://modularaddict.com/midibox-6582bs-pcb Capacitor - Electrolytic (Radial) 100µF 25v 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/140-RGA101M1EBK0611G 10µF 25v 9 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/140-RGA100M1EBK0511G 1µF 50v 8 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407 2200µF, 16V (or 25V) 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/140-REA222M1EBK1625P Capacitor - Metal Film 22nF 16 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ECQ-E4223RKF Capacitor - MLCC 100nF 36 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-K104K15X7RF53H5 1nF 16 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-K102M15X7RF53L2 33pF 8 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-K330J15C0GF5TH5 470pF 8 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-K471K15X7RF53H5 Crystal 10MHz 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/815-ABL-10-B1U DIN Socket 5-Pin 2 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/57PC5F 7-Pin 1 https://amzn.to/3bCe4cx (Amazon - hard to find these days) Diode 1N4148 5 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/1N4148 Header 2-Pin 2 Any 3-Pin 9 Any 4-Pin 1 Any 4-Pin Dual row 1 Any 8-Pin Dual row 4 Any IC 24LC512 - 512K EPROM 8 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/24LC512-I-P 6N138 Optocoupler 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/630-6N138 74HC165 - Shift Reg (Parallel to Serial) 5 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/595-SN74HC165N 74HC595 - Shift Reg (Serial to Parallel) 11 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/595-SN74HC595NE4 PIC18F4685 Microcontroller 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/PIC18F4685-I-P SID 6581/6582/8580 8 Check eBay or Etsy - Good luck! IC Socket 16-Pin 16 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/485-2203 28-Pin 8 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/485-2206 40-Pin 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/485-2207 8-Pin 9 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/485-2202 Potentiometer - Rotary 100K - Dual Gang 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/313-1250F-100K Potentiometer - Trimmer 10K 5 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/PT6KV-103A2020-PM Resistor 1.2K 1/4 1% 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/271-1.2K-RC 100 Ohm 1/4W 1% 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/271-100-RC 10K 1/4W 1% 25 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/271-10K-RC 1K 1/4W 1% 34 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/271-1K-RC 220 Ohm 1/4W 1% 20 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/271-220-RC 5.6K 1/4W 1% 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/271-5.6K/AP-RC Resistor network (5-pin or 6-pin) 10K 10 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/264-10K-RC Stereo Phono Jack with Switch Neutrik - NMJ6HFD2 4 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/550-20301 Toggle Switch Salecom T80-R 1 https://www.retroleum.co.uk/c64-misc-components-fuse-etc Transistor BC337 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/610-BC337 BC547 16 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-BC547ATA Voltage Regulator 5V SREG 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/919-R-78B5.0-1.5 7809 1A 1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/511-L7809ABV-DG Component Grand Total 338 Cheers!

As I mentioned in a different thread (see below), it was really fun to get SIDplayer mode up and running, but there are a number of shortcomings that take away some of the fun (i.e., no support for 2SID or 3SID tracks, MIDI not being able to keep up with the performance needed to play digi tracks with digi samples, plus some other odd playback glitches). I'm also lucky to have an Ultimate 64 from Gideon (https://ultimate64.com/Ultimate-64-Elite), which supports two physical socketed SIDs. The SID playback there is really nice! You can even combine playback from your real SIDs with multiple instances of the built-in FPGA UltiSIDs (i.e, The Tuneful Eight). Of course there's simply no substitute for the sound design possibilities and the live playability of a MIDIBox SID, so I guess the use case is just different. Probably not helpful feedback, but just sharing some thoughts... Cheers

I’m in no way affiliated with this eBay seller, but this came up in a search, so I thought I’d share. A lot of 12 SIDs are available. So, if you’ve been putting off building a MIDIBox SID due to parts availability, now might be the time to reconsider? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283767607715

As expected, the pin conversion board works perfectly! Kudos to @Altitude for the design and for sharing! Big thanks to @latigid on for pointing me in the right direction!

Update: the mini-PCBs have arrived from OSHPark. Took about 1.5 weeks end-to-end, including int’l shipping to the US, so not bad. Hope to have time to solder and test tonight. The mInimum order was 3 pieces, but I should only need 1. Happy to send extras to anyone interested, at no cost for the PCB - just cover the postage.

UPDATED: These steps work with MacOS Catalina 10.15.2: 1. Download and compile midi_patchbay from here: https://github.com/notahat/midi_patchbay 2. Download and compile SIDPlayer 4.2, with TK's modified ASID code here: https://github.com/mselin/sidplay4-asidmod 3. If you're a N00B like me, you'll need to create a developer ID with Apple and substitute this for the DevID in the code, as well as the team name, in order for builds to work. This might be obvious for a real developer, but I had to feel my way through that 4. Start midi_patchbay, then start SIDPlayer 5. Go back to midi_patchbay and configure the MIDI input as ASID OUT and set the MIDI output to your MIDI interface 6. Power on your MIDIBox SID, then switch back to SIDPlayer. You should now be able to play SIDs with no issues! (very cool indeed!) However, you'll notice that SIDPlayer doesn't seem to recognize or support any 2SID or 3SID files (I.e., tracks from Jammer, PCH, MCH, etc.). Would be wonderful to know if someone has managed to work that out! Cheers~

OK, I finished off the last few fiddly bits of the build, so now I can officially say that "It's Done" and more importantly "It Works!" Full N00B disclosure of the areas I struggled with, include: -Soldering ANYTHING with a larger ground connection (example voltage regulators) made a solder blob mess, until I adjusted my iron heat setting to ~750 F. - After much troubleshooting, I realized I had to redo all of the board to board mezzanine connectors between the control surface and base PCBs. I hadn’t made them long enough to to establish good contact. But, honestly everything else was really straight forward and it’s been a very rewarding experience to work on and play with the results. I can’t say enough about the collective efforts hat went into the design, documentation, PIC programming, etc. a real community effort (wow). As I’ve said elsewhere, I’m already working on a big brother MB-6582 project, so I can have multiple instruments playing at once. I know my experience with the sammichSID will come in handy... ...I am left wrestling with an ethical question though... If I did actually buy a set of Chinese knockoff PCBs, is anyone getting cut out of their commission on them (i.e., Wilba, TK, nILS, etc.)? ...or are the volumes they're selling on eBay likely to be so low that it’s not really a big concern? Thanks again everyone... Cheers!

Well, I’m done with the build now and I can confirm that all the voltage checks worked out, so the PCBs seem OK... I did have a problem with the 7809 voltage regulator and the LCD screen, but as a newbie, these were most likely my own fault. I used MIOS to upload the v2_044 firmware, although my family has become impatient with me, so I need to break away for now. More testing and hopefully final status tomorrow (expecting a second 6581 in the mail tomorrow as well).

Well, I'm building it now.. The kit seems to include all of the required parts. Nicely packed, labeled and separated, etc. Hopefully it will actually work! Cheers

I had been wanting to build a sammichSID for a while, but I couldn't find any PCBs or kits. Finally I found a listing on eBay for a full kit which I've ordered, but now I'm wondering whether it's a bootleg... eBay Listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sammich-SID-synthesizer-un-assemble-DIY-KIT-SwinSID-MOS-6581-8580-SID-Station/153859268349?hash=item23d2ba1efd:g:6EsAAOSwHvpa6w-U In the attached image you'll notice that the label near the SID jumper shows 6580/6582, as opposed to 8580/6582. Perhaps a bad copy?

@latigid on great advice and appreciate you taking the time to review and comment.. Sticking with a 45 degree angle rule makes sense moving forward. It was a fun exercise for me to work out the design. Learning a ton from the pages here! Cheers! -Darrell

thanks @latigid on - I like the @Altitude design much better! Just ordered 3 of them... Cheers!

Has anyone attempted to design a custom PCB daughterboard that could attach to the 20x4 character LCD on the MB6582 and avoid having to solder the IDC cable directly to the display? I've never done such a thing (I'm a complete newbie to DIY electronics), but I was playing around on EasyEDA and came up this design, which could (theoretically) allow you to connect an unmodified cable. Thoughts?

I know this is a super old post, but I just wanted to drop a thanks to @julianf for making my awesome front and rear panels. His prices are much better than going direct through FrontPanelExpress (close to half actually). Shipping was reasonably quick from the UK to US, taking ~1 week. I've ordered from him multiple times...

@before Still Available?

Hello everyone... Almost done with my first ever MB-6582 build... Been working on it intermittently for an embarrassingly long time, but finally in the home stretch. Wondering if anyone knows where I could get this LCD window part? https://youtu.be/WIup9BhivuY (the part makes it's first appearance @ 1:35) edit: perhaps @kHz-tone could advise? Cheers!