ilmenator

Nee, das ist bei den Leiterbahnstärken auf dem Core-Modul unkritisch. Und du lötest ja hoffentlich Sockel und nicht die ICs direkt - die kann man nämlich schon überhitzen. Also, das Lötzinn darf/muss schon richtig verlaufen und einen ordentlichen Kegel bilden. Dann die Lötkolbenspitze wegnehmen und drei Sekunden lang nicht bewegen. Das Ergebnis sollte eine glänzende Lötstelle sein - dann funktioniert die Schaltung auch. :) Grüße, ilmenator

Look here for MIDIbox LC. Keep on reading! Best regards, ilmenator

Very true, and a remote control type of UI could sit on the desk without the need to save on rack space. Actually, I find the idea of separating the actual matrix and the UI very intriguing. Best regards, ilmenator

Isn't this a typical usecase for an encoder?? The selection can also be done "single-handed" if you use a push-button encoder. Best regards, ilmenator

Ooops, I have been working with these for seven years in my old job - still I needed to check the manual to see if my memory fails me... It does not. Apparently what they have on their web site is a pre production rendering. You can get an idea of what the user interface is like from their manual. Yet, I guess there are some pretty interesting user interface ideas around here - the pushbutton-encoder idea is very good, although I would still insist on having to select the destination first (this way, handling could be done using only one arm / one encoder/button). Just a detail, maybe, but this paradigm (dest<--src, or TO<--FROM) is widely used in the studio world. Best regards, ilmenator

Nice! In the "About..." box, check the spelling of Thorsten's name ;). Best regards, ilmenator

Just a comment on the UI: The upper line should always show destination, the lower should show the source: that's the order in which you select the crosspoint, as you can usually assign only one source to each destination, but more than one destination to each source. This way you make sure that you do not accidentally overwrite the settings of other destination "channels". Also, you might want to take a look at the Friendchip Patchbays. They have a user interface that is comparatively nice given its small screen size (2x16 characters). Something along those lines would be nice, maybe with an option for a LED matrix (or master- and sub-matrix for larger configurations). Keep this up - I think this is a really interesting project! Best regards, ilmenator /Edit: I see that the chip actually can do multiple inputs to single output. This kind of puts into perspective my above statement? Still, most users will be accustomed to first selecting destination and then assigning source to that destination... ???

Me too ;D. Does this thread make sense any more?

How do yours compare to these? They are 0,12 Euros a piece and probably match yours quite well (6mm wide). Best regards, ilmenator

Peake, why don't you post a picture of the actual switches here, maybe with dimensions ? :) Best regards, ilmenator

Yes, confirmed! Best regards, ilmenator

Yes, indeed VERY similar. That Trigger Finger biopsy Artesia is talking about can be found here. On The Trigger Finger, is there no foil between the rubber pads and the printed circuit board? On your photos it looks like the rubber button touch the PCB directly, but there must be some kind of layer that changes resistivity with changing pressure? Best regards, ilmenator

Yes, that's what I was suggesting above :). Best regards, ilmenator

What about international bank transfer using IBAN and SWIFT codes? I hate supporting Paypal... Best regards, ilmenator

The Conrad ones are cheaper but slightly larger (45mm in diameter). The DK38-144 fit nicely on a 1U 19" front panel, they are only 38mm in diameter.

smaudio, where are you located, what additional costs would be incurred? I might be interested in 3 of those. Best regards, ilmenator

Well, the modification he describes in that document already does this - so there is no point in trying to modify a PG-1000 using MIOS. The MIDI data output by that beast will not look any different whether you use MIOS or his approach - but his is much easier to achieve because you only need to replace an EPROM, whereas a MIOS-based solution would most probably require a new circuit board. The other way round might make sense: build a PG-1000 clone based on MIOS (e.g. MIDIbox64), if you cannot find a PG-1000... Best regards, ilmenator

Klingt interessant - kannst du ein bisschen mehr ueber das Schalten der Netzspannung sagen? Sicherheitsmassnahmen, Relais, etc.? Gruesse, ilmenator

Also, here are some of the rubber parts and the backside of the pad PCB. Apparently, velocity sensitivity is actually pressure sensitivity: it looks to me as if they analyzed the resistance which is varied by the amount of pressure that is forced upon the pads. Actually, those rubber parts have an inner dome, so the feeling is rather "hard" or "stiff" when you press it in the middle, and very sluggish if you press the trigger buttons in the corners. Best regards, ilmenator

Hi all, as it seems to become a good tradition of publishing photos of opened gear (thanks Artesia!), I would like to contribute some of the trigger pads of a Roland MV-8000 (thanks moxi!). If you ever wondered how these things are built - here you can see. Best regards, ilmenator

You could try replacing only the transformer, thus keeping the secondary voltage (the output voltage of the transformer) the same while changing the primary voltage (input voltage) from 110v to 220V. The net frequency does not matter in this case (and it is not related in any way to the voltage). BUT: you will be working on HIGH VOLTAGE, this IS DANGEROUS. If you have to ask these questions it might be wise not to do this yourself. Instead, simply get a step-down transformer that transforms 220V to 110V. Best regards, ilmenator

Please share!

"Mexican Americans don't like to get up in the morning but they have to so they do it real slo-o-o-w." Man, I must have really been young when I learned that by heart... ;D

Hehe, very good ;D It's a sticker on my office door now... Best regards, ilmenator

I wonder if similar "things" are available with a round shape - not ice cubes but maybe "ice rods". I find the rectangular shape rather hard to realize for DIY front panels, but would immediately go for round ones. Do they exist somewhere? Best regards, ilmenator