NorthernLightX

A few short comments about the power: - you can't trust any PSU without a load (but linear PSUs seem to be less affected by this). For testing purposes you could use a small lamp to create a load. - More amps is not a problem. Your PSU apparantly can deliver more than you will ask from it. - High and/or unstable outout voltage is a no go. I would never power my precious chips from anything unreliable. I would suggest to at leas extensively test your PSU before plugging it into your SID.

Since I needed a few rare ICs from utsource I ordered a CEM3396 as well, so if this project ever takes off I'm in :w00t: From what I've read about the CEM339x is that the 3394 is voltage controlled in the "official" sense, and the 3396 is microcontroller controlled, but if you feed a pulse wave to the inputs it will actually work. I don't know in what way and am pretty sure that controlling it from a microcontroller directly is probably a lot more versatile, but it is a start.

They will. Those are proper 3mm holes. Don't forget to start with the whole JB-weld thing before you do anything else with the frontpanel/PCB combo, even more so with flat head LEDs. Read the WIKI for the walkthrough.

You can use a DINX4 and DOUTX4 PCB and just stuff only the components you need, for example 1, 2 or 3 of the shift registers and only the resistor(networks) that are for the specific IC.

If you want more than one SID: read Hawkeyes post again :) If you only want one SID and/or want to go the separate module road: read my post in the fleamarket, I have some stuff for sale which should give you a head start. :thumbsup:

I got a question about the version of the boards; although these are older boards they will run current MIOS and SID application. In fact the very latest has already been installed.

2 of my last remaining old leftover Midibox boards. Grabbed them from the drawer to test a 6581 SID I traded for some other fun stuff, and wanted the SID tested before sending it out. What is included: - Core8 V2 module. This is old stuff. All mods have been done, including bypass caps, pull up resistor and diode for 4-bit LCD mode. It also has an LCD cable soldered to the LCD header, standard pinout for 4-bit operation. PIC18F4685 with MIOS and SID application flashed (latest version at time of writing). Optocoupler stuffed as well. Some wires are soldered to the pins where you normally would connect a DIN module. I will leave them, or remove them if that is the wish of the buyer. - SID V2 module. As old as the Core. Has 6,8nF styroflex filter caps installed which were the suggested value once; now different values are suggested but these are easy to replace, if you want I'll include two 470pF ceramics for the 6581 for free; I have some low tolerance 22nF mylars for a 8580 setup as well but those are not free. The board has bypass caps mod for the shift registers (which are stuffed as well), the wire for the clock from the core, and +5v from the core. Also the wires for the data communication between the Core and SID board are soldered. The board DOES NOT INCLUDE A SID. Both boards do NOT have on board regulators and such stuffed (in fact they were stuffed once but removed later), you are supposed to power them from a regulated PSU. For example the C64 brick with optimizations or a Switching PSU that delivers the right voltages. If you plan to use 8580 or 6582 +9v is needed, for 6581 +12v is needed, and for both boards +5v is needed as well. In theory it is possible to run this off a single supply and stuff regulators on the boards, this will require some work from the buyer though. I can look in my parts bin what spare parts I have for the PSU regulation. If you stuff a SID and supply proper power, this set of boards will work out of the box; connect MIDI plugs and an audio plug and you are set to make sound (but you would want to add an enclosure as well I guess). This could also be a starting point for a Midibox with Control Surface. Price range for the board set as listed: €30 without LCD. I have some additional spare parts (2x16LCD red on black, 4x20 LCD white on blue, pushbuttons, encoders, bankstick ICs, LTC board for flashy MIDI lights, unfinished DOUTX4 board, blue LEDs, to name a few) to add features to this build. If you are interested just let me know and we'll work something out. I'm interested in both selling or trading. If you're up for a trade, let me know your proposal. Cheers, Alex.

you can use ALPS. Voti offers them. Or just serch at your regular suspects.

Logic dictates that you have at least one defective SID then. I would suggest picking one IC socket that you deem good, and test all your SIDs in this one socket. Place the bad SIDs aside. Then test the other sockets with your "known good" SIDs, to check if all your sockets are OK. It's probably best do use one SID for the socket test, to rule out any differences between individual SIDs. I have no experience with broken SIDs (fortunately), but from what I've read a SID with a defective filter does not pass the LP test but fail a HP test. It's either broken or it's not. You didn't bend any pins by chance? What Hawkeye said is also a good tip; reflow solder points, clean flux, and check for unwanted shorts and damaged tracks, also on the top layer of the board.

You need to change the configuration file and upload it to the PIC, but you don't need to remove the PIC from the device since the programming routine is already in the OS. Start here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=encoders (bottom of the page "Detent types"); From the MIOS FAQ: How do I modify the application code and build a new .syx file? -> Follow the instructions which are given in the “main.asm†file.

Those are the studs I was referring to. I'm not sure which tutorial you are referring to though, and since Hawkeye is also helping you I do not want to interfere too much.

Do you? Why? If it is because you don't want to use JB-Weld be warned that the CS PCB needs to be connected to the panel with JB-Welded studs as well!

Wow that sounds expensive! According to the wiki $140 (note; dollar) should be the general direction. I have a spare set of panels for the pac-tec pt-10 case, but the silk screening on the main panel is a bit iffy (there are no errors but the quality is not great. Still, everything is readable so the panel is useable without problem.). If you're interested drop me a PM or email.

Good luck finding one that doesn't have the VCA bug. In fact, let us know when you do, that would be huge news :wink: Does your encoder skip forward and backward more steps than you would expect from a single "click"? In that case it could be as easy as changing the encoder type in the configuration file.

You have no idea how much that makes my day :flowers:

In theory you could just ask ponoko to keep the lasered cutouts and include them in the package, instant perfect fitting buttons :sorcerer:

Question to ilmenator (or anyone else who knows the answer) since he pointed this schematic out in another thread: There are a few vacant places in the matrix. Can I just add buttons on those locations and allocate functions in MIOS for them? I planned to have separate buttons for EXT IN (Filter Feedback) per SID, so my guess is that implementing those will not be hard at all. Same question for the LEDS; I have planned a separate LED for each SID EXT IN, is there a similar schematic for the LEDs?

I bought them from a group buy/bulk order yeeeears ago, along with some ALBS/waldorf knob caps. How many do you need? I have 60 and do not need all of them (I have 48 holes so in theory would have 12 spare, minus a few for experiments with the cursor buttons)

Cool and useful schematic. Thread hijack: is a similar schematic available for the MB6582? I could use it :whistle:

Nice build. I like the knobs, something different than the ALBS knobs everyone is using (including me :shocked: ).

The retainer legs go through holes in the pcb and have small hooks to keep them there. The button caps are a Waldorf part (like the ALBS knobs) and use the same type of actuators as on the standard MB6582, but now not with a 13mm shaft but with a very short shaft (virtually no shaft at all). This is a standard Reichelt part fortunately, so not expensive at all. I will post pics when I have it set up.

Did you use PCB's to mount the buttons and encoders, or did you use veroboard? In case you used PCBs I'm very interested in your files :thumbsup: :rolleyes:

Recieved the finished panel last week. It's almost perfect. Almost, because I made a tiny boo boo; the 4 navigation/Arrow buttons are so close together that they interfere behind the panel. A possible fix would be cutting the offending retainer legs and using a bit of hot glue to secure them to the actuators. I'll decide when I get to that part :tongue: Pics of the current state: Backside with jacks attached and buttons inserted: And the front (bad picture because of excessive backlight, the buttons look transparent but won't be in the final setup, they are translucent but I will not use tham that way). Next phase will be designing PCBs for the sections of the frontpanel (the holes do not line up with veroboard). I'm not looking forward to this part of the job :wacko:

Another relic that turned up while cleaning up the mad scientist lab: 3 pieces of PIC16F877. These are only useful for very old Midibox projects (http://www.ucapps.de/pic16f_firmwares.html) or for those who want to experiment with PIC programming; most if not any recent projects will NOT run on these. The only current project I know of that still uses them is the eDrum project, which is related but not entirely Midibox so to speak. I don't need anything in return :flowers:

AFAIK they do, they have 1, 2 3 and 4 U models (maybe not 3 and 4U in slimline but in other models).