Steven_C

Hey Dan, on my logic control emulation, when the faders were moved by the software, sometimes they move a little too far, and a bit of jitter meant that the software thought I was moving the fader by hand, so the software updated to an incorrect position. Now, with touch sensors activated, the midibox only sends controller changes when the touch sensor is active, so the software no longer gets incorrect messages, which is awesome! (another of TK's awesome solutions to make life easy!) well, I'm tired, and sorry but I gotta go.

no more posts on this thread, it is not in the spirit of the competition! ;) he he!

There is a multitrack recording package on Linux, that is available for free! It is free, because the company who makes it sells complete hardware multitrack packages, and that is how they make their money. I also forgot what it is called, as well as the URL :-[ only thing about Linux... do VST's work, as well as lots of soundcards, etc, won't work on it yet. And all your other support programs (sequencers, midi tools, like midi-ox, plugins, mastering software etc etc won't work, at least not yet anyway... Still, I would love not to put up with M$ and crApple!

clean

Hey Dan, is the joystick a metal shaft? if it is, maybe a touch sensor could be implemented. This would be the ideal solution! apart from that, have you taken all the usual precations to avoid jitter... adequate power supply, short wires, judicious use of capacitors, mains filter if needed, sheilding, no ground loops, etc? Has the implementation used features like the AIN deadband? anyway, it's exciting to hear about your midibox adventures! ....Steve

was that at schurict? the vertical STEC16B Alps encoders can easily be converted to non-detented if you prefer (though will still be ok detented) non-detented, they are the best feeling encoders I have ever felt! (feels like a real pot! hmmm... nice!) yes 3.50 euro is pretty expensive! (probably cheaper than Farnell though!)

8) beach 8)

I think Thorsten posted another cheap supplier of Alps encoders on here somewhere recently as well.

roadcase

I have used ammonium persulfate (persulphate?) It seems to work better and quicker than Ferric Chloride, but is a little more difficult to use, and requires an exact heat range to work. (adding more hot water, until it you see it start to etch) Best to use a thermometer, (I think it was 75 degrees C, but I could be wrong) but don't use the thermometer for anything else afterwards (avoid contamination) Use any of these products with extreme caution! Wear goggles, and protective clothing!

Hey, I have purchased as an individual from Farnell in Australia, they are about 50 mins - 1 hr drive away from where I live. I just rang the order hotline, made my phone order, told them that I would pick the goods up in person from the trade counter, and that I would pay cash. This went no problems. Though they were extremely expensive. I read on this forum that other people have ordered panasonic encoders from some guy in UK off ebay, for very cheap. (do a forum 'search' to find details) good luck, and have fun! ... Steve

yeah, lets start a thread purely to boost our post count! :P

unusual (sorry, can't think of anything more interesting :P)

;D it was meant to be a joke, hence the "I thought it would be cheaper than recycling an old mouse!" oh well...

would this encoder be ok for my MIOS jogwheel? I thought it would be cheaper and easier than recycling one out of an old mouse ;) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2576489316&category=4660

or 'inspired' (maybe) ;)

These projects are so flexible, and Thorsten keeps them quickly updated, to the point that documenting them is almost impossible! But hopefully we will see some tutorials from the average builder soon! (I will finish college in the next few weeks, so I will hopefully have more time to do an LC tutorial)

The PDF picture works fine for me.... (edit) just zoom in to see the details

there used to be a parts list for the MB64, but it is out of date now, as the MBHP modular system changed everything. You can work out what parts you need from the list for the core module, and also for the AIN module and The Din module. I'm not sure if that list includes the extra 1k pull up resistor or not. Then you will have to check the schematic for the rest of the parts. Actually, I'm not sure how it works now, as my MB64 layout was completely different, sorry. it was much easier for me, when I used Greg's old MB64 PCB!

Hey LO, some very creative ideas there! and nice case too!

he he... I get it! :P

I'm not sure how it works... I think they are different these days... protools HUI support etc. I don't know if it works with old software either. the article was very brief. We also don't have access to the latest info on the midi implementation of these devices, as far as I know... (or half of us would be controlling protools!)

Ignamato- it will go flat too quickly. (maybe after an hour or less) I successfully used (6x) AA batteries, and my MB64 also had a backlit 2x16 LCD. This lasted about 12 hours continuous use, but I never actually timed this!

I read in computer music that the commercial Logic Control and the Mackie control can both control all the same software now!

(Bump, I would really like to know)