stryd_one

That will almost certainly kill things, as another forum member has recently accidentally discovered ;) (name with held to protect the soldering errors) hehheheh

Frankensynth! :P

Sherman filterbank is two state variable filters and two VCAs, so no...but this is of equal quality, just a lowpass filter though.

Images of just the switch as per requests: Datasheets: Switch Engineering Catalogue No. 6

stryd_one's gone completely freakin craz.... ...wait... I was always crazy. Oh well. Okay so those of you unfortunate enough to be around me for the last few years will have heard countless complaints as I searched for the "perfect switch" and came up blank...Well I finally found them... at least for me anyway ;D I need lots, so I figure i would like to do a bulk order and share the love. Here's the deal: Two types of switches are to be ordered: 3FTL6 - These are the standard MEC "MultiMEC" tact switches. They're very high quality, with millions of repetitions and all that, and they have a sturdy click, both tangible and audible. Some people find them a bit too "clicky". They will be ordered without LEDs, but they can be illuminated with standard 3mm LEDs. That's a lot cheaper than buying them with the LEDs already in them! 3FTL6 "Quiet" These are my babies. They're custom-order only, have all the same specs as a normal 3F tact, exact same size, lifetimes, etc etc etc....but they don't click.... at all - tangibly or audibly. They're like a 1mm throw pushbutton, and they like te be stabbed at. It's actually kinda addictive ;) The closest approximation i can give is that they feel like pushing on a switch mounted on a rubber eraser (yaknow for removing pencil marks) And four types of caps: 1S - Clear 6.5mm round caps with a textured top that diffuses the LED and feels kinda grippy. These aren't custom order so you can find them online, but not this cheap. 1D - Translucent White 9.6mm diameter, look great with a LED behind them. Custom order. 1E - Same shape as above, body in grey or black, with translucent white LED window. Custom. Here's the catch: I don't have fixed pricing. I need numbers first, at least rough ones. This is where you guys come in. No, the switches aren't cheap. They're high quality, that's the way it goes ;) These are rough prices, in US$. 3FTL6 "Quiet" $1.80 3FTL6 UNKNOWN. $1 or so. Rapid has them for that price in single quantities so I expect less. I haven't asked yet. 1D.16 (Translucent white) 0.40c 1E.03.6 (Grey with translucent window) .80c 1E.09.6 (Black with translucent window) .80c 1S11.16.0 (Clear cylindrical) .40c These are for very low quantities, and custom orders usually drop a lot when you get decent quantity. For EG I expect the quiet switch to come down to around 1.50, maybe less if I'm lucky. Thes prices are at 100 quantity and I'm already approaching 2000. Here's the pr0n: [img width=800]http://stryd.schickt.de/IMG_2249.jpg [img width=800]http://stryd.schickt.de/IMG_2248.jpg [img width=800]http://stryd.schickt.de/IMG_2244.jpg L-R: 1S, 1E, 1E, 1D Thanks to wilba for taking these difficult shots - it's hard to get decent pix with the bright leds! So, if you like, speak up! Once I get an idea of numbers, I'll get a firm quote before you have to commit to anything.

4685's are 4 bit automatically, unless you configure them to use the user lcd driver, and wilba included a user lcd driver that does 8bit using spare pins. I got the impression you were using it before You didn't answer my question.... Now I'll add to it. Which hex file did you upload?

There is a specific one, but explaining it will take me longer than it will take you to check all of them :)

That's why i linked you to right angle minis :)

You can only run one app at a time, and you're being very adventurous with redesigning the boards etc, but I think you're on track. Wait around for the organ midification experts to chime in, those guys know everything.

Once upon a time, I would have linked you here: http://www.borg.com/~jglatt/tech/midispec.htm :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( It's a sad time, the online midi community should mourn that site.... try midi.org.

I've got a list as long as my arm, but not all midibox related... should I start another thread? Ooo "Draw" is the one you want...

Yep. Sorry I said stereo cause I was thinking duo led not rgb, but you can get 4pole jacks the same (used for headsets usually) The lightpipe thing would work too.... in fact i'd say you could just shove an LED up into the tube, leave it free-floating so the joystick rotates around it, and fix it to the base where the magnet is. You won't lose much light on thi inside of a shiny metal tube. Edit BTW my 1st google hit: http://www.remtrak.com/psu/jack.htm They definitely exist, mini and 6.3, in 4 pole and 3.

Welcome aboard man. It sounds like you've left the top row floating (unconnected), I think you've missed out one of the jumper wires to the power buss there. Cimo's on the money as usual - a pic would be great.

What PCB? Wilba's? The 8bit driver on a v2 is not standard, and if you plugged in a 4 bit LCD with the 8bit driver, it won't behave... sounds like the corrupted message that arrived triggered a factory message.... I wouldn't do that again, lord knows what you could be doing to the lcd ;) So, either wire it up for 8bit (i would) or change the software to a 4bit driver and re-upload.

The keyword you're in need of is "mux", and to be precise, "unmuxed" ;)

Actually I think that's a very good question :) Only TK can give the correct answer to this question, but I think I can safely say that it is not only allowed but encouraged. Maybe if you get rich off your gig you can give TK and Twinny a nice donation :)

It's in my signature, first link ;D

Lightpipe was my first idea too mike, good call.... Where's the 2nd link twinny? If it works with a dc plug, maybe a stereo audio jack will do... I've seen milspec rotating connectors but they were insanely expensive like $70... Do you have pics of it, looking up the shaft from the bottom? With he joystick off-axis? Trying to got an idea of what i'm really playing with.... I assume the leds are going in the handle and not just in the shaft?

Why would you want USB? If you're connecting it to a PC at all (why? might as well use a software seq), real MIDI is a much better way to do it...

No decals, it's an FPE panel... Use the search, Philly ;)

Edit: beaten! Damn you cimo! ;D

It's like Fisher-Price design, only not a toy :)

Ahh no, you should start the upload by starting the midibox. MIDIbox OFF MIOS Studio Hex upload Smart mode Wait for upload request Select file Start upload (click the button, nothing should upload yet) MIDIbox ON Upload begins Upload completes without errors If that doesn't work, it's time for the midi troubleshooting guide. Fonebone, I'm talking to you. Read my signature ;)

Ahh thanks nils! That's a really simple and easy representation (I think...does it make sense to everyone else?) I think that needs to be wikified too.

Isn't there a a complete mouser partslist somewhere already?