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Die LEDs sind so dunkel, weil sie multiplexed sind. D.h. in der gleichen Zeit, wo eine normale LED andauernd angesteuert wird, werden die gemultiplexten LEDs eine nach der anderen angesteuert. Aufgrund der Trägheit des Auges schaut das dann so aus, als ob alle leuchten würden. Diesen Effekt kannst du am besten im Dunkeln sehen: Wenn du dann deinen Kopf seitwärts bewegst, und dabei auf einen Punkt hinter der Box schaust, siehst du das leichte Falckern. Normalerweise reagieren gute LEDs auf diesen Ein- und Ausschaltvorgang relativ sauber, aber andere sind zu träge, um vor dem Ausschalten ihre volle Leuchtkraft zu erreichen. Abhilfe: Erniedrige den Widerstand der multiplexten LEDs (also alle LED-Ringe). Ich weiß jetzt nicht, was für ein Widerstand original angegeben ist, aber so die Hälfte müsste schon gehen. Probiers halt einfach mal an einer LED aus, wenn es dir passt, dann halt auch an den anderen. Allerdings *zu* niedrig würde ich auch nicht gehen, nicht das dir irgendwas durchbrennt. Min. 100 Ohm (das sind dann 50 mA pro LED !!!), drunter würd ich nicht gehen!!

I would just try to burn the whole programm. I always do that. Just burn the MB64SEQ Proggy and look if everything is fine. If it is, forget the test programms. If its not, *THEN* you can go back to those.

I would get myself some good book (but I dont know any in English - sorry). First, there are cool examples in there, and second, there is always a library with all functions, which you can always use. If you dont want to buy it, you could get it at your local library or so.

As far as I know, the backlight should come up even without a stuffed PIC! Check the wiring to the LCD (also the backlight pot)! Try burning the MB64 program. If you then switch it on, the LEDs of the DOUTs should play some pattern and the MIDI out LED should shortly come up, to. At least you can be sure then, that everything except the LCD is fine.

Reburn the software (verifying ok?), and perhaps even change the PIC once. *Maybe* this could help. Also check the wiring to the (and on the) core.

Oooops, stupid me. ;D ´cuse me, just a moment. Hmm, sorry, but I cant give a direct link, cause its not there. Just follow the following things: - go on schuricht.de - click "Katalog" (on the top) - and now click the following items on the left: "Elektromechanische Bauelemente" "Schalter/Taster/Signalleuchten/Knöpfe" "Knöpfe" "Geräteknöpfe" "OKW Drehknöpfe" There you are. Theyre grey and weird... since all is in german, I dont know where to get them outside germany.

First: There will be an AOUT extension from TK soon, so you can control Pan and Volume of the four SIDs digitally (but the result will be analog!). Second: The volume can already be changed with the Volume Control by MIDI. But if you want to change the volume anyhow, a simple pot between 0V and the signal will do the work. (Search for passive mixer schematics on google or somewhere, then you will understand how that functions - fairly easy).

Yeah, thats true. Also the changing of the baudrate shouldn´t be THE problem anyhow. Just changing the timer. *Also* I dont know how the buffer will handle this... TK? Perhaps some idea for MIOS 1.5 or so?

*Either* MIDI *or* COM.... the baudrate is changed! So no synthi attached to the MIDI out would understand what the MB wants to say. ... or kinda like that ... No MIDI and COM at once at the moment.

You can either install MIDI or COM. Not both at a time. This is because of the two different baudrates (MIDI is slightly slower than COM). But this should all be stated clearly on the page.

Just to make sure the problem is on the AIN module: Pull it of the core and touch the jumper on the core (the ins for the AIN) with your finger. The values should jump up and down and make weird things. Then you at least can be sure its the AIN. If so: Clamp the *functioning* inputs to ground and try again with the other pot Ins (a trimmer between 0 and 5V should be handy there). /edit: Did you check the voltages of the not-functioning pots? What´s their value?

Aluminium? btw: There are some big jog wheels available at www.schuricht.de They´re kinda weird, but on the other side they look cool somehow. And you can put whatever knob in there you want to. They should sell similar to these ones elsewhere, too. /edit: The alu question goes to Steven... ;D

Youre just right. But more facts are playing a role here. For just single pots I would put an plus of 0,5-1mm. For a (lets say) 16 row of pots soldered to a PCB I would put an extra of 1,5 to 2mm perhaps... just that every single one really fits in there. For screws and so on 0,5mm is enough.

Shit, d2k was faster than me... :P ;D

Shit, d2k was faster than me... :P ;D

More things I would think of: First: I would make the distances between the buttons multiples by 2.54mm, so you can easily solder all your buttons to a platine. This way everything is stabilized a little and you dont need so much screws. But this is only important if you dont put all that stuff directly to the frontplate. Second: Remember putting the holes for all that drilling stuff there. E.g. the LCD screw holes. Third:Especially the LCD in this point. Draw the spaces you need *under* the plate (also for the ensoders and so on). The LCD needs much more space than only the display itself. Those buttons right next to it look like they wont fit there. Last point: Think of making some kinda overlays (some transparent film or plexiglass or so) for all your synthies and so on (if you want to). So you just have to change that overlay to see where every single Control is. And with this point: Think of every single hole you have to cut there. I made my design like that, that I only have to cut out rectangles to make everything fit. Hmmm, OK now the really last one: Those buttons above the LCD... *I* would put them somewhere else. The LCD should be visible all the time. Perhaps I would make those buttons more like 16 row ones, but thats just my way. I mean everybody has his (her) own workflow. If you really think you will come along with that really good (think of that *before* building it), do it. Phew... thats it. Hope I could give some usable advice.

Hey Thnx pilo!! That´s some excellent site! Will built this thing (4 time or something). Cool, thnx!

What do the pots send? Do they send random values, just zero or just the maximum?

Hi there! I need some easy (DIY) more-way headphone preamp. The quality of the sound does not have to be sooo great (Schematics would be the best naturally). I want to do some recording with some guys. Although I have 4 headphones, I dont have 4 amps. So everything is stuck up at the moment. Can some easy OPAmps do the job? Or will they blow up? You dont have to be soo fast with that. As stated in the other thread of me, I´m in the middle of tests and dont have time to start with that stuff right away. Thnx in advance!!! :)

For the first two points: Use the search function here in the forum. I suggest D2K´s thread. Everything very clearly there. Although I have to say that the LC clone is a hard one to start with! I hope youve done electronic DIYs before! For the third point: No, just that the motorfader wont stop if you touch it. The function of the touch sens. is that the MF will stop moving as soon as you touch it, so you can move it other way and wont harm it. An easy way to get around this is to just put a switch (or a metall plate - just another way of connection) under the fader, which is emulating touch sensitivity. But also for this point: Search string in this forum. There are already many threads about this. btw: **GOOD LUCK** ;D

Yes, it will. I built my first part of the SID just with two SIDs and Cores. Everything fine. You can change to SID 3 and 4, but naturally nothing happens there. The first two SIDs worked without problems,

LOL, very cool. So most of the pots and faders are used by us MB enthusiastics. ;)

If some ICs are stuck really hard in there, I try the following: Take a small knife ("Taschenmesser") and try to assemble it right between the IC and the socket (this can be hard - especially when the IC is really pushed in there very tight - so try to be very carefull here so you dont break something). Push the knife all through to the other end so you can see it coming out again on the other side. Now pull it to either side of the ICs so it is touching the pins of that side. Now *CAREFULLY* rotate the knife so that the pins on that side are pushed up a little (if you rotate to hard or to much you will bend the pins of the other side). Do the same on the other side (again only pulling the pins up only a little bit). Now that both pin rows are pushed up a little, the IC should come out very easiliy. This way always worked for me, every chip I´m getting out in this way still works! :D

Yes, its the maximum voltage the cap can take.

Absolutely the absolute one. You dont want to snap the values back to the middle value as soon as you let the joystick go, do you? btw: What the heck makes those things so expensive?? I mean its just two pots in an frame and connected to the stick. This sucks. 36 Euros is to much for me (you can have much more other stuff for this money). *sigh*