pay_c

OK, I´ll try that.

Hi again! I build the second core for my MBSID. Than (as described) I burned the Bootstrap Loader with Device ID 1 (the master core is on ID 0). Opened MIDIOX and tried to get MIOS on there. The programm is sending the code absolutely fine, but the PIC is not sending any MIDI Strings during the programming. After that the Dump Request rolls over the screen again. Reprogrammed the master core, just to check if everything else is fine. It functioned without problems. What do I have to do, to programm IDs higher than 1?

Hi there! Running on Win2000. Installed JAVA Runtime and then wanted to start JSynth. Nothing. Really absouletly nothing happens. Anybody had this problem? How to solve it?

Update: Just wanted to let you know in the meantime, TK: The Midimon is kinda unstable. It starts to print very (VERY VERY) weird characters after a certain time. The whole LCD gets messed up. Anyhow, the MTC Display is still working absolutely correctly. Also: If I plug it out (since above this happens more often) and in again, the RAM of the PIC is stored very long without the power (about 5 seconds). So I think you can put the big capacity on the core module from 2200 uF down to 1000 uF without any problems. Just wanted to let you know, nothing big, especially as the Midimon will be exported to MIOS in some time.

I can just repeat myself: Fast, faster, TK !!! ;D

Fast, faster, TK!!! Just build the case this weekend for my 4xSID and designed the frontplate in advance. Coming back here: Tadaaa! Man, thats timing. Really BIG thnx!!! (again... Â ;D) /edit: Am I right that the open DOUT Pins are just multiplexed for the LEDs of the Modulation Matrix? Just cant wait to solder that stuff...

Dammit! I dont get it! First: Thnx for this datasheet. BUT: Page 1, Features: "Compact and 3-track version available - servo, touch sensor and audio" TOUCH SENSOR! Where do you get *this* version?

Yes, it is, and if you build an *analogue* mixer, you really do need that. Many high quality mixers (Omnitronic for example) in fact do use ALPS dual faders. But if you build this thing for digital (MIDI) apps (e.g. Traktor Mixer) only normal pots are needed, the mixing is done digitally.

ALPS Faders are certainly ideal for all audio apps. Theyre the most easy to move faders I came along up to now. Theyre also available as dual-pots, also I´m wondering why you would need that for an MBHP/MIOS App?

The LCD will be much bigger I think. Have you measured out the stuff? If not, I would do that. And why are the first four faders horizontal?

Not only for newbies! There´s some cool stuff there, thnx!

Another question from my side about the drivers: Just read the imperfections on ucapps.de. Will there be a chance for a driver update someday? Especially the multiclient thing is not so good for me... btw: :o wow! Very compact design!! SmashTV DID do some good job there!!

Nein, aber du must die Eingänge (ich glaube das sind drei oder vier, richtig?) des zweiten AINx4 an der Core auf Masse ziehen. Geht am besten, wenn du einfach eine Pfostenleiste nimmst und die entsprechenden Pins mit einem kurzen Draht zusammenlötest. Dann geht alles.

For that LTC-Display look at the Midmonitor App on www.ucapps.de Its some multiplexing and so only an DOUTx3 needed.

Yepp, exactly that way. The nossle is on the top in your picture.

woah ;D ;D ;D thnx... ;D

Nojo, das Einzige was du komplett ohne PIC machen kannst, ist zu schauen, ob an allen dementsprechenden IC-Pins die 5V und die Masse anliegt. Sehr viel mehr ist kaum möglich, glaub ich. Wegen dem Miniprog: Das Beste wäre es, denke ich, einen LCD anzuschließen (ich denke mal, den hat man immer irgendwo) und *irgendein* Proggi laufen zu lassen. Wenn die richtigen Meldungen auf dem LCD kommen (sprich man kann sie lesen), dürfte alles soweit passen. Aber ansonsten einfach die benötigten restlichen PCBs basteln und anschließend das Proggi direkt drauff. Hat bei mir bisher fast immer gefunzt. Wenn es ein Prob gab, dann meistens Software-maesig (einmal hab ich vergessen die AINs auf die Masse zu ziehen - Ausnahme...).

Errrrr.... why dont you just measure it out with an multimeter? If you find the both pins with 10k (or whatever) you have it... ??? But if I had to guess, I would say that the both on the left are the total resistance and the one on the right is the middle one.

For the first one: Yes, this will be ok. The number after the B tells you the maximum voltage it can take, the second after the C tells you the maximum current in mA. For the second one: Yes, a trimpot (also called trimmer) is indeed an adjustable resistor. Just like a potentiometer, just in an small package. Every electrical store should certainly have them. If not: Go to a new one! really... The backlight luminance should really be controlled by a trimpot or an potentiometer. For testing you can use a jumper (meaning a simple removable wire) between the pins. The backlight will be very bright then and will use up much power. But whatever... its just testing. Normally the contrast pot can be totally exchanged by a jumper. The most LCDs are then most good visible. The same here: For testing, just a jumper. If the LCD goes all black, you know you need another trimpot. Hope I could help u. ;D

Aaaaah! Totally misunderstood you, ´cuse me. Thought you were talking about ready-made PCBs. OK, thanky for the pictures. Very interesting how you built in the encoders. ;D

Ok, end of the *thinking* status. Changing to the *maybethiscouldwork* status. I just painted some picture, but since I dont have any webspace... whatever. Perhaps somebody could post it for me. Dont know if I can explain it to good. Here we try: First, you would have to mount some metall piece right onto the fader knob, facing to one side of the housing (it should be round though - welded, soldered, screwed in there- whatever - and about 3mm diameter). Since you have kinda space right next to the fader slot (next to the fader knob - about 5mm or so) it should be possible to mount a small copper band in there (about 0,1mm thick, 100mm long and about 2mm wide). Just glue (or whatever) the upper and lower end of it to the housing of the Fader. It should touch that metall piece mentioned before fairly good. Perhaps bended by it by 1-2 mm. Now you can solder some wire to the copper band and voila: Touch sensitivity. *IF* somebody understood this, he could do me the favor and try it out. I rather would try it myself, but as of money-lacking I will start building my LC in August or later. What do you think of this idea? A little complicated perhaps, but first: DIY and second the only idea I had. Just the question if spending 13 Euros per Fader is worth the work.

Although of the good news: (10 per Fader!!! YES...) As the touchsensor is just a electrical connection to the fader knob, has anyone experimented upgrading the Panasonic ones? Has somebody some pictures of them? If theyre constructed in some reasonable way, it *could* be possible to somehow connect the knob with some wire, naturally without disturbing the movement and the look of those Faders... Just an idea... /edit: Forget the picture, I found one... doesnt look to great for modifying... *thinking*

Hey TK, just some question about your new mounting technique you mentioned: Does that mean that you solder the buttons and LEDs (and so on) directly on the PCB? If so, that frontplate design cannot be changed to easily anymore, right? And you also would have to use specific buttons and encoders. Will that board be available at Mike´s? (Guess so...) Wouldn´t be bad if you post this PCB (also its just some prototype I guess), so we get the idea of that mounting technique. Reason: I got the case and 2 SIDs running. Now I´m about to design my frontplate. Dont want to do all that drilling and so on if I cant mount it. Thnx!

Absolutely!! :D

Muss ich mir wohl endlich mal den neuen Katalog holen... ;D ...