seppoman

Hi tilted, Thanks for taking action :) but I´m sorry having to correct you - your text is wrong in two regards: First, MBSID, MIOS etc. are not under GNU GPL at least since one year. The license is: and second - if it was GNU GPL, he would NOT breach the license! GPL only means open source, i.e. if you make modifications/extentions to the code, you'll have to re-publish the source code. Nothing else. Look how many companies make profit from Linux related stuff and they're perfectly legal. The second issue was the exact reason why the license was changed. In fact you've told ebay that bluelantern did nothing wrong :-/ Seppoman

There doesn´t need to be one - this is the Miscellaneous forum :) S

Wieso, dachtest Du man kann für nen Fuffi nen vollwertigen Controller bauen? Billiger als fertig kaufen wird's schon, aber hier ist auch der Weg das Ziel, wie auch die Möglichkeit, die Kiste komplett nach eigenen Wünschen zu gestalten. Wenn Du nur wegen des gesparten Geldes selbstbauen würdest, dann laß es lieber - der Stundensatz für die gesparten Euros ist ziemlich schlecht. ;) S

Hi, wasn das für ne Umfrage - Pic brennen, 1 oder1? ;) Erstmal, auf den PIC muß in jedem Fall Software drauf. Du mußt erstmal wissen, was für einen Controller Du bauen willst. Für Cubase? Das heißt also, Du willst entweder eine Midibox LC (Mackie Control - Motorfader usw), oder einen generischen Controller (Midibox 64 oder 64E, also im einfachsten Fall eine Kiste mit einigen Potis oder Encodern, um damit Plugin-Parameter zu steuern). Auf dem PIC muß am Schluß folgendes drauf sein: Der Bootloader, MIOS, und die jeweilige Applikation/Software. Bootloader und MIOS sind schon drauf, wenn Du den PIC bei SmashTV kaufst. Bei MidiMike ist zumindest der Bootloader auch schon drauf. Wenn Du den PIC woanders gekauft hast, mußt Du alles selbst draufmachen. Der Bootloader wird mithilfe eines Brenners aufgespielt. MIOS und die eigentliche Applikation können per MIDI hochgeladen werden. Auf jeden Fall solltest Du erstmal noch ziemlich viel lesen, auf http://www.ucapps.de/ und im Wiki: http://wiki.midibox.org/ Grundlegend sind z.B. diese beiden Seiten: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/what_is_a_midibox http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/introduction_to_ucapps.de Seppoman

I think he´s just in a building phase. look at his last profile ratings, he has bought several SIDs since the MBSID auctions stopped :( S

looks like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290165749591 The buyer was from Poland, too...

Hi guys, what I don´t like about this thread, and it happened in some similar cases, too: In my opinion there´s no need to insult people or be angry or moralistic on them just because they asked a question here. I mean, this board has been created exactly for cases like this one. JV asked, TK answered, JV complied to TK´s answer (at least so far). That´s the way this board was meant to work. So why not just calm down a bit? That said, a disclaimer: I don´t want to endorse any MBHP-related commercial actions with this post, I´m just saying, if you want to be angry at someone, choose a guy who doesn´t ask here and doesn´t give a shit about TKs opinion on his actions (like e.g. the guy from the "SID-NUXX on eBay" thread - and btw, does this Argentinian "company" also still exist?) Seppoman

Hi Nebula, my displays also arrived, no problems with duties/rohs etc, didn´t test them yet but they look fine. So thanks a lot for your efforts, Good Seller Rating A++ :) Seppoman

As long as it's a general hardware question that is not related to one certain application, post it to the Design Concepts board - or, if you´ve already connected it and it smells strange: Testing/Troubleshooting ;) S

should be no problem :) but are you planning to put a MBSEQ into your cabinet as well or did you just post in the wrong board? ;) :P

Hi, I also once bought a 1204 and checked it out for the vocoder function and I can tell you: If the vocoder is your main reason to get it working again, then just forget it and try to get 10 Euros for it on ebay. The vocoder really sucks, this has nothing to do with a real vocoder. If you want something usable, buy an Alesis Metavox. I´ve got one of these for 30 Euros new, and while it´s not THE very best vocoder you can imagine, at least you can kind of understand the words. If you want a multiFX with acceptable vocoder, search for a Boss SE50 or SE70, they also have very nice Chorus etc. FX. Or, if you want to spend a bit more on a vocoder: MAM VF11 Analog Vocoder - I´ve also got one and it's an absolutely fantastic machine, very rich and full sound, also usable as a filter bank, all single band volumes adjustable, separate unvoiced input etc - I love it :) Seppoman

Hi NLX, :) S

cool, thanks for the info :)

Hi, just for the record, I´ve also sent you an email :) Seppoman

Hi Simone, I don´t know if your generous offer is really necessary - all Moderators and Frequent Writers (e.g. stryd and me) can upload files directly to the midibox wiki. So in fact your solution would only mean two servers instead of one that could have a data loss or be down, and either one person instead of 10 (?) that can do uploads for the community or an unsafe shared account for you. So I think it makes more sense to upload the files to midibox.org. If you want something there, just drop me (or stryd, or audiocommander, or Wilba, or ....) a note :) Seppoman

Hi Nebula, as your deadline is approaching, wouldn't you just post some example numbers for international shipping? In principle I'd still be interested in ordering, but in my case the displays are not for some actual project but meant as spares, so all depends on the total price. International fees vary largely depending on the carrier, total size etc. So without the information if e.g. 5-10 displays would cost 10$ or 25$ shipping, I don't know how anyone could decide if the total price is cool for him or not. Since this is the only option already mentioned: how many displays would fit into this USPS flat rate thing when safely packed? S

don´t know about the iic module question, but the 18C... PICs are not reprogrmmable, i.e. only one single firmware upload and no way to change anymore. So this has nothing to do with quality. And besides that, as you´re posting in the SEQ area I suppose you want to build a SEQ. The SEQ needs a PIC18F4620 to run, a 452 hasn´t got enough memory. S

That one is a bit tricky in Eagle. I think it´s ok that you get warned about it but it can be a PITA... That package warning means that there´s a device which uses the package. If you want to change the number/name/etc... of pins in a package, you need to open the corresponding device, delete the package/Symbol association, edit the package and reconnect both in the device. Likewise, if you want to change the symbol, delete and reinsert it to the device. This package+symbol=device topology is convenient for defining some part that comes in multiple package types. but if you just want to build a new part, it can be really annoying. I don´t think there´s an easier way to do this. BTW, if you want to change a part definition after the part is inserted in a PCB: Edit and save the package/part. then use the "add device" on the schematic and select the part. Then eagle will tell you that the part already exists in a different form on the pcb and asks if you want to update the existing ones from the library. Click yes and then press escape to end the part placement (without having to actually add the new part you don´t need). S

right, just look at Smash´s boards :) But if you´re going to have it made anyway, I´d strongly recommend doing a double-sided PCB. It saves you so much time layouting and usually costs only a few bucks more. With single sided pcbs, it´s always the "how do I get as few bridges as possible" tetris. Not that you shouldn´t try to keep the number of vias reasonably low on double sided, but you just don´t have the need to go round the board with some trace to save some stupid jumper all the time :) BTW, even if you do a double-sided board, the silkscreen is normally only on the top side. Some board houses offer an additional bottom silkscreen for extra cost. But this only makes sense if you do a SMT board with components on both sides. The solder mask is generated automatically by Eagle. As long as you don´t want something special, you don´t need to think about it. No, just use the Pad tool (the green circle left below the polygons). On the top ruler you can define the drill size for the pad. The pad diameter is normally generated automatically. You can easily check that this is true by switching off all the layers except drills and holes and then place a large pad. You´ll see the circle is already there :) Seppoman

http://cgi.ebay.de/RIESEN-C64-VC20-C16-C116-Plus4-Amiga-Atari-SAMMLUNG_W0QQitemZ290161413884QQihZ019QQcategoryZ3544QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem A huge pile of Commodore stuff - at least 30 C64s etc. Ending in 1.5 hours, so if you´re interested, be quick... It´s local pickup in Hamm, Germany, so mostly interesting for regional people with a big car. I wanted to get it myself, but it´s already 350 Euros and out of my financial reach :/ S

rectangular holes - this depends on your board house. the cheap one I´ve used so far doesn´t do anything that is not drilled (i.e. round). If your selected manufacturer can do other shapes, chances are high that it will cost extra. The easiest and cheapest way for these pins would be normal drill holes that are big enough that the pins fit in. My guess is a 3 mm hole but try it out on veroboard before ordering. Seppoman

Well, I have to admit I never tried this myself. From logic thinking, I´d say if e.g. the fader is exactly inbetween two LSB values, the AD result would flicker between the higher and the lower value. So when interpolating to 11 bits, you might get a stable inbetween value even while the signal is not changing. Interpolation can easily use e.g. 5 or 7 measurements before getting into trouble with MIDI speed as long as there are only a few of them. I´m not sure though if a resolution beyond 10 bits is really useful for your purpose - I mean, even with a 100 mm fader, 10 bits is about 0.1 mm per LSB value! I´d say that it would be hard to set the fader position purposefully to a position that is in between of two 10 bit steps. And you also have to take into account that in a typical DIY controller box, you have some wire lenghts, imperfect shielding, electromagnetic interference, slight VCC ripple etc. So even when using a 12 or 14 bit converter it might be difficult to get better and stable measurements than 10 bits. There must be a reason that most microcontroller manufacturers put 10 bits ADs into their designs, and also DAW controllers like Mackie Control use 10 bits. If you want to get better than that, you´d need: - very clean conditioned supply power - very good PCB design (grounding issues, interference/shielding issues, short distances, separated analog and digital grounds...) - a very good external voltage reference - the usual internal references of ADCs/DACs are not precise enough to facilitate reproducible sub-mV measurements - ... So looking at both extensive design considerations and the difficulty of precisely setting a fader to positions more exact than 0.1 mm, I´d recommend just using the internal ADC with full 10 bit resolution, maybe interpolated to 11 bits, and sending these values as NRPNs. Seppoman

Sorry I don´t know a 10 steps thingie, but I´ve found the complete manual from Cadsoft quite usable (ftp://ftp.cadsoft.de/eagle/program/4.16r2/manual-eng.pdf). It explains quite a lot of stuff the step by step way. What do you mean by automatically placed? Except for the autorouter (which only gives useless crap most of the time), nothing is automatic. But if you mean how to get vias while manually routing: you can change the layer of a trace by clicking on the mouse wheel. e.g. you start at some leg, route the trace to some point. then you left-click to fix the trace to this point, then middle-click to change the layer, then just go on routing the rest of the trace. changing layer does automatically a via with the defined diameter and shape. I normally change to .7mm diameter and round shape before routing, as it is a standard drill size at most pcb manufacturers, and squared vias look stupid IMHO :). No, but I´ve lost all respect for defining new parts. It´s really easy and well described in the manual. If the manual is not enough, then just have a close look at some similar parts to learn how it´s done. A lot of electronics forums are full of people who ask for libraries of parts they can´t find. Just do it yourself. The first part I´ve done took me perhaps one hour because of first time learning. Now it´s a matter of 10 minutes :) What do you mean by select layers? normally, you select parts/pins/elements and they are in some certain layer. You can change layers of existing elements with the tool/change layer tool. When creating/placing elements, usually in the top bar there is a selection field to define onto which layer it will be placed. If you´ve got more questions, just go ahead and ask :) Seppoman

Hey dude, you mean the one by Scatterbrain, or is there another? :) Seppoman

Maybe this is interesting for you: http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc8003.pdf when looking at midi transmission speed and having only few channels, oversampling might be sufficient for your needs. Seppoman