illogik

hey; the core regulator can/will get really hot; especially with the sid module and/or a backlit lcd attatched. You can use a heatsink for this. For the pic try uploading mios again; you never know! cheers, marcel

yo; check dis; http://www.embeddedtronics.com/etchant.html it's the one i use and i'm sure u can get this stuff where you live (unless aquariums are forbidden there) cheers, marcel

hey; well, you can just see an encoder as 2 switches/buttons; one for down and one for up; so you can mix encoder/buttons and if you exeed the number of inputs; you build another core and link them, as raphael said no, the same app>>read up on the mblink page; you link the cores by midi, then in the application menu you can define one core (or more if you have more than 3 cores) as MBLink Forwarding point; and the last one as MBLink endpoint. Also make sure that both core have different device id's.(you give the core an id number when you burn the bootstrap loader, and you can change it using the "change_id" app) first when you wanna build something; write down what you want your box to do>>in the mb projects section, choose the project that comes closest to your wishes. In your case i would go for a MB64E; since this is made to handle encoders and buttons as a midicontoller. then in general, from empty PIC to running app.: 1> burn the bootstrap loader in the PIC using a hardware burner+software (MBHP burner+P18; JDM-module+IC-prog) You can buy preburned PIC's in the MBShops (so you don't need a burner) 2> Upload the MIOS (=operating system) through midi; use MIOS-studio, or Serge's SysEx loader, midi-ox. 3> Change and build the appropriate MBapp to your need with MPLab IDE (easy thanks to thorsten! 8)) and upload it the same way you did with MIOS. 4> have some sleep-deprivating fun with the most wickedest thing you ever built. ;D hope this helps, marcel

hey, chek this thread for info on various etching chemicals http://69.56.171.55/~midibox/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=602029061d3d6fb2b7cecbba935f3442&topic=1964.0 i'm using sodium persulfate (Na2S2O8); you don't need an expensive machine for that! First i did it by heating the etching fluid to the right temperature in a pan 8), then pouring the fluid in a container with the pcb, rocking the container gently while etching (so the fluid moves). for a good/complete description g00gle (try "bergfotron"; saw it first there) because there are precautions you should follow! BUT BUT BUT!!! this is faster/cleaner/safer ;D>>> i now etch in my home built etching tank (plexiglass, aquarium heater and airpump); i'll look it up tomorrow, or try and find it on google yourself(diy etching tank or so); cheers, marcel

fanx mates!

hi for the pots/faders you need 2 ainx4 yes but why the rockers (you mean toggle switches, am i correct?) digital input buttons can be easily configured as on/off switches with mios and mb64 cheers

lcd benchmarktest on 2x40 lcd from voti 3375*8*100= 2,7 mS btw keep in mind that; -they are surplus so they could run out quick -to use pin 15&16 for backlight you must solder 2 bridges on the back (connect the pads of J1 and those of J2) cheers, marcel

Hey, just a quick and simple q. Are the din tables for buttons/encoders in TK's diagrams ordered so they give the best performance? For instance; on mbseqv2 the encoders/gp buttons are all at the end of the SR chain; is this just a personal choise or does it have an (important) other reason? cheers, marcel

hi; just a quick guess; check if the path name/lenght isn't too long cheers, marcel

Hey, just connected the 2x40 displays from voti; they are good(great? ;D) for me; cheap, look as new, and good readability, at least from where i am looking.. but to get it what more official/technical, i'll run the benchmark test this evening. cheers marcel

Hi, no, the CS doesn't change according to the amounts of SID's, all the knobs/menus you see are there to control one sid, the only thing you don't need are the 4 buttons to select which (of the maximum) of 4 sids you want to edit. But it may even be better to keep these; so you can expand the synth easily. yep read up on the appropriate ucapps.de pages! it's all there 6) are LCD displays really $20+ or am i looking in the wrong places most of the time; yeah, but look on ebay or something; occasionally there are really cheap ones cheers, marcel

so get a simple wall wart/adapter, because you probably want that for the mbseq anyway, put it on 9 volts (7-10V is good; 5V isn't like moebius said); connect to core and start troubleshooting (measuring)again; the soldering doesn't look really good but i've seen a lot worse.. ;D cheers, marcel

hey, you just have the core right now, right (no other modules, no lcd)? then it's maybe good to first use a regular wall-wart/adapter (7V-10V 500mA) for troubleshooting and fixing the core ; the c64 psu can be a bit confusing as for the soldering; if you used too much you get blobs of dull looking solder (dull compared to shiny, good ones) and you probably have bad connections there. get some desoldering wick/braid or a pump; remove the solder, and do them agian. put your soldering iron not too hot (if possible) and be sure to touch both the pin of the part your soldering and the copper on the pcb pad, then put the tin against the tip/area to solder and if you do it right the solder will "flow" nicly in place good luck, marcel

hi; http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ltc.html cheers, marcel

;D i love this sh#%... thnks

Hi, sounds interesting how difficult is it to implement software lfo's and envelopes in a MBapp? And if you want hardware; i've built 2 of these and i love 'em (but i love lfo's in general): http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth/coolnewlfo.html they got controls for rate/speed, waveshaper (from saw to triangle to ramp), hi/lo range switch, and 3 different waveform outputs. You can also insert a voltage divider at the output so you can control the amplitude of the wave. cheers, marcel

hi, nah Tk is saying that if you need only up to 8 switches you don't need anything but a core module, if you want mor controls or leds, you will need to also build din or dout modules which connect to the core cheers, marcel

Hi, here is a link for the small hardware midi>dinsync converter; http://www.colinfraser.com/m2d/m2d.htm and according to these texts from resonant frequencies&blacet: http://www.hoohahrecords.com/resfreq/modular/patseq/patseq.html http://www.blacet.com/MSdata.html ,the required pulse width for dinsync is 1ms cheers, marcel

hi, you didn't offend me at all so don't be sorry, and it is good to double-check, but... i'm just saying the answer to your question is a few posts up in this very thread you are reading now! (underlined but no link, a bit confusing, i agree ;)): or am i missing the point? marcel

hi, there are small midi to dinsync circuits out there on the net; if your willing to loose the second midoutport you can get with the ltc-module you can insert it right there (its really small :), build it on rasterplate) i think this is the best way cheers, marcel

guys, if you could at least read the this whole thread; it's funny :( if there would be some more reading/searching the forum the forum wouldn't get so big so it would be easier reading/searching the forum etc. marcel

Hi, i think it just hasn't been implemented in other applications yet... marcel (chek PM)

Hi, The droid is not a FM-synth, is it ??? (still sleeping) and i think the way it synthesizes sound is closer to the MBSID(modulation matrix, "analog" modelling). This of course doesn't say anything yet about their actual sonic possibilities, but still. cheers, marcel

Hi, if it puts out an analog voltage for both axis (which i think is the case), it can be used as a potmeter/joystick ;D, you just have to make it in the 0 to 5V range for midibox applications if it isn't allready ,and connect it to a AIN module. do you have a datasheet of the pad, to see what voltages it outputs, how to connect it etc? they don't have technical specs on the website yet. cheers, marcel

Hi, nice idea! i think that when u use resistors of the same value you automatically get equal sections. (every resistor has the same value>>the same voltage accross it) To keep it in the midibox range (10klin for pots) i would divide 10k trough 22= 455 ohm or something in that range. would be even nicer if you could make it with some kind of ribbon controllers so you get full pitch range instead of notes (but would be much much more work+money ofcourse) good luck, marcel