illogik

Yeah the parts stay the same; encoders can be pots. but keep the pots for other projects and go to this WIKI page; http://www.avishowtech.com/midibox/wiki/index.php?pagename=WhereToOrder&PHPSESSID=0289eb63c30f4bfdf9174b4718ace636 down at the bottem are several cheap suppliers for encoders good luck, marcel

sounds goood ;D ive modded a synth that has a similar cem ic, i like them >they have a seperate VCA too and all.. low cost vcf aswell? cheers, marcel

wow, easy with the axes when a question is not answered in this forum thats because of: -impatience -in your case, nobody that has read the thread knows the answer, the floorboard project isn't such a popular project so not many people have axeperience with that. never because people don't wanna help you the forum is a place where enthousiast mboxers talk/discuss about building, and not some kind of big-company tech support which can help you with all your questions  :-\ and see; you figured it out yourself; remember, thats what all of us (should) do, DoItYourself all the way. This way the forum/common knowledge grows and it doesn't hang on one man only. so it would help future generations if you posted your results here too; this way we don't have to have this discussion again, and again, and again again.,,,..... cheers, marcel

yup thats right!

'hi i can't help but saying; reconcider the encoders, spend 20 euro more for way more flexibility. however this is diY so if you are sure; check if you want the pots panel mount or pcb mount, if panel mount you havew to adjust the size of the holes to the size of the pot shaft (with thread, not the bare shaft ofcourse), if pcb mount, you can use these holes if you are going to use the same size of knobs as TK's original, otherwise adjust them to your knob size (+a tiny bit of space so it can turn free). in any case check if the body of your pots with solder terminals isn't too big. cheers, marcel

a lot of general technical info/techniques on circuitbending: http://users.informatik.haw-hamburg.de/~windle_c/TableHooters/ circuitbending and synth-building blog www.getlofi.com have funn

hi; the bucketbrigade ic's (BBD's; MN3xxx and SADxxxx series) where most analog delays are based on are hard to find or bloody expensive. There are some projects with these chips on the web though. I did see some new ic's that are clones of the old BBD ic's (@smallbear), perhaps this is the right starting point for you. As for the analog/digital thing; im a complete analog freak so i know what you mean, but sometimes the difference between the two can be hard to hear. I (want to) believe the guy who compares the sound of the pt2399 to the ad-80, which is in my opinion a really fat analog delay. cheers, marcel

Hi, I'm builing th a voltage controlled delay based on the PT2399 delay ic (can get them @ small bear electronics). I'm using scott bernardi's design: http://home.comcast.net/~sbernardi/elec/og2/og3_echo.html it has voltagecontrol for delay time and feedback ;D .I'm making an eagle board file for a pcb which is going to be bigger and have more bridges than neccesary since this is my first eagle attempt... i'm not going to finish it at least for2 weeks but if it works i can of course share it with anyone interested. cheers, marcel BTW this is a digital delay chip but the sound can be similar to a ibanez ad-80 analog delay according to this (other) construction article http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/pt80techinfo.pdf

hi, i vaguely remember from school ;); V= I x R or voltage= current x resistance since the voltage is stable (you get 9v from a 9v adapter regardless of the circuit connected to it, theoretically), with a resistor added you get lower current ???, but i think thats not what it's there for; it fixes/stabilises the voltage on that point, otherwise the voltage would float too much and the app/pic thinks that something is happening. cheers, marcel

hi think it's the only difference yeah; since ground is the point with the lowest voltage (in a unipolar, no negative voltage circuit) and V+ is the point with the highest voltage, hence pull-down and pull-up cheers, marcel

yo kokoon; check the knobs tk used for the seq. i got those to0; no (unrealistic) minimum order i thougght, there from albs cheers, marcel

check for (more) shorts, (check supply voltages if you can figure out). I never had a egg-cooking pic while programmin with JDM, and although broccoli should not be eaten raw this is probably a hardware error..... no seriously, i know from experience that this isn't a fun stage of midiboxing; spending hours and at the point your nearly finished it bloody doesnt work. >:( but this stage is allso the stage where i get impatient (wanna finish WANNA TRY IT OUT!), and make small mistakes. Now if you have time drink some coffee, and check the broccoli again, with multimeter and you probably find it... good luck< marcel

hi; yeah this is correct; but you don't need a LT; every core has a midi in and midi out port; the ltc is for if you want midi through, an extra midi out or a midibox to com port. extra out and trough is nice to have in my opinion though.. and if you can do with less buttons (like 64, mios/midibox apps are very flexible) you can do it with 1 core and 2 dinx4 but linking is easy too ;D good luck, marcel

are you sure? ithought that a spst is never a momentary button? aah, confusion... :P anyone? tired of googling..

hey; one post is enough man ;) most of us read through the whole forum anyway! (well, i do) have you put a 10uF cap between Vcc and Ground like the datasheet suggest; maybe the power rail noise you might have without the cap causes the jitter. cheers, marcel

hi, you could make the low cost aout (search forum) but you'll have to make it on breadboard (no pcb yet), and i don't think you have to build MBCV; you can connect AOUT to MBSID if you configure it? D2K did this (or at least with MBFM) cheers

yeah, it's for the lcd, and i think you got it in the right way if you are getting to the point that you are 1000% sure the hardware checks are ok (voltages/connections); and you still have no midi activity, it could be that the bootstrap isn't loaded correctly, for some strange reason. But like i said; if you bought a pre burned PIC, this would seem unlikely to me. and you need a programmer/burner to check this of course.. :-\

hi; not the resistors, but the diode and the optocoupler; triple check midiport wireing have you got a spare opto to check (first make sure right voltages so you don't fry another)? and maybe get another PIC or make a burner to burn the bootstrap again. sorry i don't have the magik answer :P cheers, marcel BTW i dunno how optocouplers and PIC's react to stactic electricity bursts, so maybe this won't help you;>>but do you ground yourself when working with sensitive components? static electricity (which builds up on you when you for instance walk on carpet) can kill certain components when your body releases it. Ever had a shock when you touched a metal closet or something? its the same thing If you don't have equipment to ground yourself just sit next to a big metal object (big heaters/pipes/closets stuff like that), touch it now and then, and don't move your feet too much.

whoaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa ;D more projects, less music making!!! ;) @moebius; busy week but i'm sure i'll send you the package befor weekend!

hi, so this could be 2 things (i kan think of right now); - no bootstraploader on the PIC>> but you bought allready burnt PIC from MBSTore? then it's probably not that - faults in the midi part of the core (dead optocoupler, bad connections, wrong polarity of components)>> i know this isn't what you wanna hear, because you checked it allready, but hey.. check again, youll be surprised how many times i looked over something that was (too) obvious. Try to check the connections in a different order then you did before, to avoid systematic errors. cheers, marcel dontgivup ;)

hi, this is right you don't modify the MIOS code; customizing has to be done in the MBapplication (MIOS= operating system; application= program you are running on it (for instance MB64)) and customizing mainly consists of choosing the right options for your setup (read about MPLAB IDE, and open/play with the file) these options are most of the time given to you so you only have to choose>>easy, just try it good luck, marcel

hi; know ableton; haven't had time to play with it yet, but i know what you mean. just an idea; to save buttons/space you could make the scenes-, mute-, rec-, enable- etc buttons one time and making track select buttons. not your ideal solution but if size is gonna be a problem... for the rollers; connect small plastic wheels to the encoder, using the shaft as an axis; the wheel you can rip out of any old Korg MS-x0 synth. ;) hehe just kidding, sure i scared some people.. think the most difficult thing is to get it strong enough so you can really play it with your foot without breaking it cheers, marcel

hi; yeah i saw that; so he has 100 buttons to operate with his feet alone ???; would get an awfully big foot controller>> since playing those tiny (tact) switches we normally use with your feet wil get a little complicated right?; but when you use foot switches you'll need the space of 100 small fx stompboxes? or is all this coffee i'm drinking getting to my head :-\ again this is not criticism; just curiosity ;D cheerz

hi, look, the way you want it can be done; but 100 buttons on a core is no option for the standard apps, so with no coding you should just make two cores (both running mb64e app). If you really want to run it on one core; be patient for other replies (meaning i dont know how :P) or start learning to code for yourself. there is a whole page on ucapps.de about MPLAB IDE; read up on it download it and open up a file (for now let's choose MB64E), open up and play with the main.asm file (where you customize the app). You'll see it will have nothing to do with being code illiterate ;) it's too easy. BTW i'm curious you say you can't use your hands but you want 100 :o buttons; you got extra feet? or are you capable of playing with your toes? good luck, marcel

hi, that's a bit much if i remember correct (would explain why the 7805 is really hot)>> supply voltage should be in a range of 7-10 V ac or dc, but anyway if you do get a nice 5v.. BTW i wouldn't get the PIC out everytime you do something on the core (only when you think(know) there is something wrong with supply voltages or so) cheers, marcel