illogik

gotthem! ;D thanks adam!

I think the easiest way to do it is to get a C64PSU anyway.. ;D there not so hard to find i guess (try ebay, flea markets etc.) if this is no option: so get a wallwart with 14V or 15V AC, power both of the modules with it but make sure you include all rectifiers/regulators on both the modules (core bridgerectifier; X1(B40C800) regulator; IC2 7805 (makes a clean 5V)) (SID rectifier+regulator for 12V) ps the 12V is for when you use the SID6501; when you use a SID8580 you can change 12V for 9V (the regulators) when i'm writing this i get more and more doubts, could someone verify or correct this?? cheers, marcel

yup, gbeth has one i guess, and maybe moebius also (been working hard M?). What do you mean with combining with a mbsid? Controlling the fatman with the aout or summin'? tell me more, tell me more... ;D cheers, marcel

yo devo, this thing got a backlight? if so; and if you don't mind shipping to europe. iwannit! cheers, marcel

;D, with each new mp3 of the mbfm i'm more amazed! the sound of this beautiful synth is perfect for the music i'm into, and together with the mbsid i've made, there are a lot of new possibilities for me in making sound/music. Thanks TK!

hi, you had an allready burnt (bootstrapped) PIC yeah?? Once you have it there's no need to burn it again, even when you try to upload something and this doesten't work, your bootstrap will stay ok. What does your lcd say?? I think that you should check midi in/out and upload mios, when this works you will see something like "MIOS 1.7" instead of the black blocks you should have with only the bootstrap good luck

Hi, I think everyone is trying to help here but sometimes it's difficult to see what the problem is by only looking at the symptoms. However i agree with what moebius says; it's a midi box so first you should hav your midi working. First i would disconnect everything from the core exept the lcd. (what does the lcd say when you power on (if only black blocks, you have only bootstrap loader, if nothing turn contrast pot)). Then just check all the connections and follow the midi_troubleshooting guide in the forum. If you have midi working we have eliminated hardware problems that could cause problems with uploading. Then try uploading again. Step. by. step.. good luck, marcel

looks nice, untill i see the price ;) $95,- is not the kind of money i would spend for this, afterall it is just a hi-tech replacement for an encoder? or am i missing something obvious (didn't have my coffee yet, so good chance). I like touchscreens when they are bigger, so you can have all/most of the controls on it (wich are expensive to, i know.) cheers, marcel

Hey, De beste of in ieder geval goeie zijn ALPS motorfaders, met touch sensors (zorgt ervoor dat ze alleen werken als je er ook echt aanzit) Ik weet niet wat je precies bedoelt met goedkoop, maar 1 thread naar beneden staat; Dus ik zou het forum in de gaten houden en kijken of er animo is om een "bulk order" te doen (ik hoef voorlopig nix), dit zou de prijs nog wat kunnen drukken. Motorfaders zijn echter gewoon heel erg duur. Of kijken wat de minimum order bij ALPS zelf is (vaak erg hoog, per 1000 is voor kleine onderdelen niet ongewoon) groeten, marcel

hey jitterbug, ( nice one 8))! ok here goes; first of all try to read as much of the info on the website (about MIOS, the parts about the MBSEQ and it's options, and the MB hardware modules you'll need(core, din, dout, (LCD) are the most important for mbseq). Looking through relevant threads in the forum also helps, there's a lot of information there. On the "module" pages on the website you will find construction tips aswell as links to kit suppliers like SmashTV; he sells all the pcb's/boards+IC's+other components that are phisically on the boards as kits, and has (cheap) encoders. The cables, tools, lcd's, pushbuttons, casing and maybe some stuff i forgot have to be bought somewhere else (try ebay for lcd's) about the soldering, you can't avoid it ;) (mbseq will have A LOT of wires) but i think that starting with the pcb/kits minimizes the amount of soldering and the risk of screwing up (thanks to the soldermask and component legend). If you never soldered before you could practice a bit (most electronic mailorders have cheap hobby/diy electronics kits)or let sombody show you how. It isn't that hard though. good luck, marcel

hi, ik zou idd dan voor de mb64e met motorfaders (dus dan 2x mb64e met 8motorfaders elk en 1 mb64 met maximaal 64encoders)kiezen , die is dan misshien niet zo volautomatish als MBLC bij logik, maar wel voor "alles" inzetbaar wat met midi werkt. Bovendien heb ik gemerkt dat bij de midiboxen die ik heb gebouwd, er elke(2 ) keer veel meer mogelijk was/is qua controle/functionaliteit dan ik van tevoren dacht, dus je zult denkik zowiezo tevreden zijn met het resultaat. probeer zoveel mogelijk dingen te kopen die je nodig hebt om het apparaat (of de aparte modules)te bouwen tot zo ver dat je kan testen of ie werkt. natuurlijk is het handig als je alles al hebt tot en met de knoppen aan toe, maar het is wel moeilijk te overzien wat je allemaal nodig hebt voor het hele apparaat (dus werkende electronica in een goede behuizing). succes, marcel

De mogelijkheden zijn bijna eindeloos, kijk hier maar eens, = 3xMBLC http://69.56.171.55/~midibox/forum/index.php?topic=2516.0 1 MBLC heeft 8 MF, voor 16 MF moet je 2 MBLC's bouwen; het mooie van de apparaten/modules is dat je verschillende cores/applicaties/modules kunt combineren, als je ze samen in 1 behuizing zet en linkt, heb je uiteindelijk maar een midi in/out (tru) port en zullen de verschillende MBapplicaties zich als een apparaat gedragen. als je endless knobs wil moet je MB64E bouwen, is meer flexibel veel van de applicaties hebben extra plaats voor meer functies/knobs/pushbuttons, ik weet niet of dat bij MBLC zo is. Maar anders kun je gewoon nog een extra MB64E erin knallen verder; A common MIDIbox64E, based on the historical MIDIbox16E design (see picture above) requires 40 DINs: 8 for the buttons, and 32 for the 16 rotary encoders. In the meantime I'm using two DINX4 modules for 32 buttons and 16 rotary encoders, see also this diagram. With 16 rotary encoders you will have 8 pages * 16 entries to control the 128 virtual pots - multiplied by 8 (-> 1024) when a BankStick is connected to the box :-) On a full-stuffed MIDIbox64E with 64 rotary encoders all 128 inputs are allocated by the rotary encoders like shown in this diagram. A later version of the application will provide 8 additional inputs at port J5 of the core module for connecting 8 buttons. Oftewel, als je 1 MB64E zou bouwen en hem samen met je 2 MBLC's in 1 bak zou bouwen, heb je maximaal 64 encoders (endless) extra om je instrumenten te besturen. veel plezier! marcel

Hallo houd wel in de gaten dat het niet zo makkelijk is om van conrad duitsland te bestellen als je in nederland woont. Ik wilde een keer lange tact switches kopen die niet bij conrad.nl maar wel bij conrad.de te krijgen waren; dacht dat dat niet zo moeilijk moest wezen maar na 10 mailtjes gestuurd te hebben kon het nog steeds niet; ben uit frustratie maar bij reichelt gaan bestellen ( volgens mij zowiezo beter, vergelijk prijzen conrad maar eens met die van reichelt, je moet alleen wel voor minstens 100,- bestellen) Maar als je wat (dure) motorfaders wil hebben doen ze misschien minder moeilijk bij conrad, chek et uit.. veel succes! marcel Â

--hallo, ben al bijna 2 jaar bezig met midiboxen-- resultaat; een goed werkende MBSID synth met CS (in een onafgemaakte kast helaas) MBSequencer, heeft gewerkt maar ik ben hem opnieuw aan het designen, hij zat niet goed in elkaar en ik wil hem kunnen gebruiken voor liveset's (als ik ooit nog tijd heb om daar aan te beginnen!); dus moet hij stevig zijn bezig met MBCV (midi-cv converter met CORE en AOUT), en ga ook een minimale MB64maken om daar de SHX8 mee te gebuiken (64 cv outputs!!) Jitteren is dat de "waarde" van een midi-controller een beetje op en neer springt, (ook) als je er niet aan draait. Volgens mij komt jitteren meestal door slechte verbindingen (van pull-up resistors, kabels etc.), het zou ook door slechte pots kunnen komen maar dat denk ik niet. btw. TraiZor ik woon in rotterdam; misschien als je in de buurt woont kunnen we elkaar een keer opzoeken, de motivatie een beetje laten oplaaien (ik heb genoeg namelijk!) groetz, marcel Â

hi, wich firmware? the 16f PIC isn't compatible with the new sid software, and you can't implement a control surface. Did you have it working before? Do your midi-in/out ports work properly? cheers, marcel

hey, for 79 leds (even with matrix) you'll probably have a few dout pins short so i would buy an extra 74HC595 and the resistors; make a doutx1 on vectorboard cheers, marcel

Hi, nice ideas i cant wait to hear the osc when finished! i'm planning my own midi-controlled/analog sound box, in which i'll probably use this filter (if i like it as much as i think i'm gonna.) I'm going to get the pcb any day now, and have the parts all here;Â If jou want i can send you some mp3's when i'm finished, i will let you hear what the simultaneous LP/BP/HP can do (1signal to all inputs--> "the result is reminiscent of a phaser", different sounds/signals to different band inputs-->"then you get a frequency based "interpolating scanner", where panning between different sound sources is possible, though also subject to the frequency at which they are running.", and plain old filtering) cheers

yes, but you (need to) chain the cores internally, so you eventually have 1 midi-in and 1 midi out on your box (and optionally with the ltc module a second midi out and a midi through port) http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs/sid_csB_connections.gif cheers, marcel

great work people; quick as everything else ;D

hi, whats your hardwaresetup? We need to know more than "no sound and no midi messages". got an lcd? it makes troubleshooting easier and you'll probably want one anyhow. (Keep looking on ebay (and maybe some links in the forum) for cheap ones.) Meanwhile check all the (IC)voltages on the boards you use; look up shematics/building instructions, check connections. If this turns out right then check if; you burnt the bootstraploader correctly (or did you buya preprogrammed PIC)? you uploaded MIOS+ the SIDapp correctly? This is where lcd would come in handy but it's possible to check, read the relevant pages on ucapps well and look in the troubleshooting section of the forum!! Oh, and start with (troubleshooting) the step A SID(1core module, 1sid module, powersupply (lcd ;D)) make this work and then try connecting your other SID voices cheers, marcel

nope, i dont fink so, "A" =anode-> "+ side" (side with the higher voltage) of LED(or any other diode) "K" =kathode(cathode) "- side" of LED (side with the lower voltage; this is often ground, like in dout module) Look at the pinning table on the pdf (no negative voltages) and the connection diagram of the lcd to core; point A and K on LCD(pin 15/16), Â connect to B+ and B- of port J15 of the core. cheers, marcel

it will work, MBSID is a midi contolled-synth wich can send midi too, meaning everything that can send/recieve midi can control it/interact with it (to a certain level) i guess you can use it with a lot of different softwares cheers, marcel

Hi, Most black with white letters (synth) frontpanels i've seen have been painted black and then silkscreened. However, you do have to make a silkscreen with the text; which is very time consuming and maybe not worth the effort if you are only making one panel. One other method i've used is making the design on computer, make a good laserprint of it and then glue it to your frontpanel (or take sticker-paper) after putting it on you must use a varnish; buy in art stores--> must be "hard" varnish. The down side is that it's very possible to get a slightly "bubbely"surface, the paper get's a bit moist and than it isn't perfectly smooth anymore (but still quite ok). When dry, cut out the holes with a good sharp knife/scalpel. Third one is using lazertran decal paper; for a good explanation+other techniques check; http://monopole.ph.qmw.ac.uk/~thomas/synthdiy/frontpanel.htm good luck, marcel

Hi, These are not outputs, but inputs; the power supplies of the IC's! They are bipolar (V+,V-,ground), so you need a different power supply. cheers, marcel

Hi, Tact buttons are also momentary, so yes. And they are cheap too (for if you run out of tv's ;)). The other thing i forgot to mention; the buttuns you use must be nomally open (NO); meaning the contact points are connected when you push (opposed to NC where you break the connection when you push it). Most (all?) tact switches are NO, so your solid ;D. cheers, marcel