moxi

...you can install 32 butons per DinX4 modules...

salut, la différence entre les deux SID réside principalement dans la sonorité du filtre, par ailleurs le 8580 est plus approprié pour le mode 303. pour ajouter des filtres/effect analogiques, il te faudra un module Aout ou Aout_lc...

non, en fait tu as besoin de l'écran pour faire les procédures de calibration lors de la première mise en route, ensuite effectivement tu peux ne pas avoir de LCD, mais ça risque de ne pas être trés commodes, notament pour éventuellement réassigner plus tard tes CCs... tu peux trouver des petits écrans LCD 2*20 pour vraiment pas cher...

maybe you can start ordering free sample directly from Maxim....that could be cheaper ;)

oui, tu doit d'abord éditer les fichier mains.asm et mios-table.inc à priori l'upload a bien fonctionné, et si tu as suivi les schémas du site, tu devrais avoir au moins les boutons qui marche déjà , il te faut peut-être vérifier tes connections DIN vers CORE...

salut, tu peux prendre au choix l'appli 64 ou 64e, la config du nombre de pot se fait dans le fichier main.asm...

Happy birthday :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D !

ça vaudrait le coup de faire les test des port MIDI de la page MIDI troubleshooting de Ucapps..

usefull to know that, thanks!

tu as fait les tests de connections MIDI?

no, you need a MF module for the motorfaders...

do you use a pre-burned PIC from Smash-tv shop or Mike's SHOP? you can't burn the app with a burner, only thru MIDI. So, the steps are: 1. if you use a blank new PIC, download the bootstrap loader on Ucapps. Burn it with your pic programmer. if you use a pre-burned Pic, go to step 2 2.one time the bootstrap is burned , upload the MIOS via MIDI 3. now you can upload the app, via MIDI too. but maybe, if you are using a pre-burned PIC, the bootstrap loader have been overwritten when you burn the app with your burner, check if you get the right request in your MIDI monitor...

hi, are you sure that the problem come from the crystal? you say: but you don't have to use a pic programmer to upload the MIOS and the app, you only need a pic programmer to burn the "bootstrap loader", then you can upload first the MIOS thru a standard MIDI interface, and one time the MIOS is correctly uploaded ,you have to upload the MIDIbox LC application via MIDI too..

hi, here is the eagle file: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_aout_v1.brd ...

ok! sinon pour changer le mode des bouton: se mettre dans le menu "MIDI learn" et une fois que tu as sélectionné le bouton (en appuyant dessus), tu appuie sur le bouton "Snapshot/Special"... à quand les photos de la bête? ;)

tu es sûr qu'il est configuré comme les autres? ils semble qu'il soit en mode toggle... est-ce le bon type de bouton (momentané?) cherches ces lignes dans le fichier "mios_table.inc": c'est juste aprés que se fait la config des encodeurs...tu peux choisir entre "MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED2" et "MIOS_ENC_MODE_DETENTED"...

great...high level! ;-)

RTV silicone is perfect for rubber button, it's well flexible, but the material is white, and I didn't find any way to make it translucent...I have done some "mpc like" pads with silicone RTV, I have added some dark pigment to obtain a great grey, you should find some pics of them somewhere on the forum.

colored pigment I use are not specifally for use with resin, there are mainly used to make paint, some of them can be mixed with water or with oil or acrylic solvant.

hi Dolphinicus, yes, i've just to order some lots of leds before to make button yourself, you need "RTV Silicone", it's the more expensive material. It's the material you will use to make your mold. then you need "polyester resin", there is many type, choose a clear one that support inclusion. Resin is expensive if you buy it in art shop, just look for a dealer of marine/boat material, you will find it cheaper in biggest quantity (from my side i pay 5Kg 15Euros). to color the resin, you need powder pigments, you can find them in art shop, then, you have to make some tests, some color will react fine, other no, here there is some chemical mystery i can't explain...just test! for the LEDs, search on Ebay for lots of 100, I use 3mm LEDs, you have to take care that the ones you choose are not too long. you need a solvant product called "acetone", you will find it in the shop that is selling resin, you need this product to clean your tools and probably your hands too ;) and it's better to use a mask to protect you from dangerous vapours (for the sillicone and the resin) you will need some box to hold your mold, be inventive ;)

oui, tu peux partir de ça comme base, aprés ça dépend de la couleur de ta LED. Il te faut faire des test avec des valeurs approchante pour que ta led éclaire asez..

tu l'as branche entre le +5v et la masse aprés ton interupteur, avec la résistance apropriée.

hi, nice design, but maybe ,as you don't have drill the panel you can add the 4 buttons to select directly the groups, to be ready for the V3.... I've put on my first seq 5 F(x) buttons instead of 4, so i'm now abble to keep functions like "mute all/unmute all" even if F(x) buttons are now allocated to new functions of V3.

hi Stryd_one, from my side I use a Creamware sound card running the "Optimaster" pluggin: http://www.creamware.com/page.php?seite=optimaster&lang=en&submenu=home I know that is still a software solution, but it's the cheaper solution i've found (about 150E for a second hand Luna card and 150E for the pluggin), it's really difficult to find hardware mastering processor for such a price. The optimaster feature a "wizard" mode: the pluggin analyse the song then propose a set of setting, and there is a lot of preset that could be used to start easily. The other good point is that the A/D and D/A converters are really good on this cards... In my opinion, this pluggin is less "destructive" than the waves L1 and the change in the sound are less drastic... And it's really fun to play with Creamware gear...

le problème vient de l'alim, tu devrais trouver quelques post à ce sujet sur la partie anglaise. c'est l'alimentation qu'il faut filtrer.