Sasha

Twin, thanks for the suggestions. First one is the rocker I was talking about... don`t like it very much as a power. Tiny, sticks out of the plain too much and not comfortable to use. Second one is suitable for power, but I`ve seen so meny variations of these with different footprints. Not sure which is most common one? I think I couldn`t find one with this footprint locally, but there are few other with similar design. I could maybe make multi switch footprint as I did with GP buttons on the CS PCB

Arn`t Wilba offered these switches to the builders? There is a link on MB6582 wiki page to the similar switch. I recycled mine. I have visited few electronic shops lately so I can decide which power switch should I use but I had no good results. Only common PCB type switch that I found was rocker switch with round metal lever... not sure what is the name for these. ...pretty common but ugly. I found some slider switches that seams better but don`t know how common they are. Contact pitch is standard 5.08mm, but those extra (supporting) pins might not be. So, I`m really not sure about should I have switch on PCB at all, or it is better to use wires. I also don`t like PCB power sockets so much. I used common type that is used on x0xb0x for example, but I find the ones that screws to the panel with one bolt to be stronger and less wobbling. I would really like to avoid using any wires on this project but maybe would be better to use few. Not sure yet. Some input about those things is welcome.

This is latest, and probably final main PCB layout. I added DIN, DB-15 (14x gate out), and power connectors. All of these including power switch and 2200uF capacitor are mounting on the bottom side of the PCB to allow minimum spacing between CS and main PCB. I just realized I should mount the 7805 with heatsink onto bottom side too. I`ll change that. I have no idea what kind of power switch to use. I like those C64 style Wilba used on MB6582. I should maybe go with these or something similar. What do you think? Have some other suggestions? As I`m concerned PCB designing is finished. I just need to do some in depth inspection and wait for the salary so I can order prototypes.

That is one of the prettiest sequencers I`ve seen. Congratulations!

mrmeana, you are lucky. I have E, F and G keys in very good shape, and you can have it for free. ;) Only thing is that keys must go to the local customs inspection, and I have to wright and sign 2 special declaration for it. Custom inspection is not free, so shipping of 3 keys can`t be less than 10EUR. Nothing is easy to send from Serbia. >:( I could maybe send it in unsigned letter if post office workers allow me, but than you might never received it which would be really pity as these are considered as a rare parts. So if it is fine for you send me an email. Thanks for this another link... Juno service manual will come in handy.

mrmeana, most of the midi retrofit kits are pretty expensive, but this keyboard emulator from Mungo seams as a pretty good deal. And it is DIY half kit (Atmel and PCBs) which is + It is cheaper than doing it with reeds. Thanks for that link! :) About the keys... even I shortened keyboard I was forced to use half damaged D key. As you might read, some keys were burned by the cigarette. Which one do you need? I might have it. Vintage planet have spare keys for Juno and many other synths. Have a look: http://www.vintageplanet.nl/ Regarding the screws..., I trow away wooden part pf the juno as it was pretty damaged too, but you could find some other screw that fits... there is nothing special about those used on juno.

Asaf, one PCB has male and other female headers for direct interconection. Nothing in between. There are 6 spacers to support it all. Corner spacers will go trough the top panel, and bottom spacers will be for screwing the bottom panel. The whole assembly should be joined together very simple in male-female manner.

I understand. Thanks for the picture. But, adding 1.5cm to depth would make it appear bigger than adding the height. :\ Gotta think more.. Are there any mini DINs on musical gear? What do you think of these? Does it make sense?

Thanks Asaf. Well, the problem is that I`m limited by the length of the pin headers. I really don`t wanna use any wires here! Check the attached picture in my previous post. If I have some space on CS panel I would mount the connector underneath it "bat style"... like Nils did as a workaround for the error on gm5x5x5 prototype. That would be solution, as I could cut the main PCB so connector can protrude trough it. Maybe I`m too much a slave of miniaturization but it is hard to accept I can`t have super-slim sequencer just because of some fat connector. Still, I like those DINs pretty much.

This is main PCB that will be connected to the CS only with headers. That`y why this maybe strange arrangement. It still has more things to be done... As you can see there are still enough free space, so some IIC modules can be added. As the total is 16 instruments I`m not sure can it be useful at all on a drum sequencers. What do you think? Wven I wan`t use it I added 2 headers for 2x 2x40 LCDs with 1:1 connection as ultra did on his ultracore. For gate out I`m thinking of maybe using 2x DB-9 connectors or 1x DB-16. I have one problem with design if I can call it that way... the height. The height of sequencer is nicely 30mm (or less if sub-pabel is not used) It is 32mm including side panels. The distance between PCBs are just 12mm so I don`t have a space for normal DIN connectors. What do you think about using mini DIN connectors instead? I don`t like it very much. Do you suggest some other connector? I would hate to make it higher just because of connectors. :\ Any suggestions and are very welcome and appreciated. ;)

I`ve been playing with this nice sequencer triggering Reason`s ReDrum and thought it would be very useful if instrument encoder can be used for sending program change when using with software drum machines. BPM LED display is sufficient to display the PC number with additional LED that signals it showing BPM or PC. One button can be used for switching the display view. Somebody in the mood to do the code modification? :) I`m having good progress with PCBs for integrated standalone drum sequencer and I`m pretty satisfied with the results by far. I think that feature would make it much useful when using with software based drum machines as you don`t need to look at the screen.

Heheh, after stryds reply I started to imagine you as a cyberpunk jumping with that SID all over the place so that panel seams as a good solution. :P I don`t have a kids, but I know exactly what you mean. I think midiboxers shouldn`t have full time work. So many things to do, and the list is getting bigger all the time. Midibox is for teenagers, with plenty of time. If I have a teenager son one day, I`ll introduce him to MB so I don`t need to care about him taking a drugs, alcohol, or bto fall into bad company. Bad thing is that he could ended with soldering iron as his first and only true love. :D I was so lucky there was not MB when I was teenager. :)

I don`t believe it would cost 800 EUR if you found on in bad shape as mine. For the one in bad shape, if t could be the fair price. It also depends from whom you are buying and where. I used to go to the local flea market regularly, and surprises happens sometimes. Also, I never buy from the white people! Only from Gypsyes. Way cheaper for the same thing and they are willing to negotiate. I bought almost all my C64 on a flea market (about 30). So when Gypsy see me, and have one, they start shouting... hey bro, I have another keyboard (C64) for you! :)

Jooks, congratulations on a build. Beautiful wooden sides. :) I also like those screws. But I don`t like much how top panel is lowered. What was the reason you mount it that way?

I`m glad if I helped you. Happy soldering. ;)

Exactly. :)

Ubercoolische! :) Thanks T.

This is ordinary cheap transparency foil I get from the copy shop. It increases contrast and turn, almost orange display into red without dimming the light. Now it fits red LEDs better than before.

Yes, I know Doug is planing to do something similar but that has not much to do with what I`m doing. I don`t compete with Doug in any way. Personally, I would rather wait for somebody else to do it instead of me, but I know I can`t expect to be truly satisfied with the result. I know pretty much what I can expect from myself. 8) :P With all respect to Moogah efforts to provide us 808 clone PCB and all critical parts, I was really unsatisfied with the lack of detention while designing the PCB. Too much free styling for my tough criteria. So, that really inspired me to give it a try and try to make something batter that would suits my liking. So, I designed my CS but just recently after I received 9090 PCBs I decided to design the PCB. This started as a personal project on first place, but than as few people contacted me and asked about PCB some batch might happens at the end. Ofcourse, if enough people are interested.

Thanks Twinny, glad you like it. I`m currently working on base PCB that contains all the electronics and it is designed to be stacked under the CS PCB. CS PCB is modified meanwhile, so now it accepts Smash`s modules. It is small modification but it would mean a lot if somebody is using Smash`s PCBs. On current prototype it don`t fit his PCB`s. I would like to make another prototype of both PCBs and than we can see about batch. I don`t know how many people would be interested in it. Thank you for an offer. We`ll be in touch. ;) I don`t have plans for running any kind of 9090 panel nor case batch. Even I could make it inexpensive locally, again... known problem with shipping. :(

Thanks. Yes, I`m using shielded cables. 1 cable 3 wires. It is recycled from some kind of DI brake-out box or something like that. I`ve found it on a local flea market. The brake-out looked pretty good quality with bunch of XLR connectors on it. :)

Thanks mate. Heatshinks and cable ties are a must for any serious cabling. Even it takes much work, I find I enjoy it more doing it properly than doing it quickly - plain soldering. So, it is not so boring thing to do as it used to be. I must admit I started to use those tubes last year for the first time. Also just last year I bought my first 3rd hand. I used to do all sort of gymnastics for all my life without it. :-[ I never realized how important small things like that are and how can it ease the work and make it more enjoyable.

I use 3rd hand to hold the pot. I always tin both, wire and pot pins. Pot pins have some more solder ...like a small ball. Than I position the wire in parallel to the pot pin and just apply some heat. Using heatshinks is highly advisable. It makes joint nice isolation and it looks good.

You should try ebay too. It is often cheapest source of MB parts especially if you are living in fucked up countries like yours and mine where electronic part sellers never heard about mechanical encoders... my case.

I don`t want to discourage you, but you better give up searching faders in Zagreb. You could probably find just crappy Radiohm faders. You better order it online. It will save you some time and nerves.