Sasha

I don`t believe HDD beaters could damage it. I added some rubber from bike inner tire around the beaters to protect it. Don`t you worry, I know what I`m doing. I guess... :P Knowing you are living on a farm it was easy for you to get it. And you get a tail for free so you can make a nice key dongle out of it. Hahaha I`m sure it is satisfying. Tuning is something I always hated. I like things that you just build and they work as should without tuning. And I especially hate coils! >:(

I`m planing to build some drum for a long time. It don`t matter to me to replicate some known style. It is more about building than distinct sound. Only thing that keep me off is that I just don`t know where to get skin locally. Maybe I could order it somewhere online. No, it`s not getting worse. The drum id dry and the crack is just a small gap around the knot. I`ll keep it as is. As a sound module. Using these Yes, it would be really hard and pointless because percussions is all about variations. My goal is to have fun with it. I`ll just add few of HDD beaters on different positions and that`s it. Nothing hi-tech. ;) I watched the video of midi-trousers on youtube time ago, but I just cannot find it now. I remember there was no any technical info about it and no wires, so whole thing looked like a joke, but I remember improvisation was kid of complex so it would be difficult to overdub the footage with samples. I`lll try to find it.

I am also planing to make CS PCB for MB808 standalone sequencer. I am working on layout in Eagle and have some free space that I`d like to use, but don`t have an idea how. Even it wan`t be used for Divius (MB808) I wanted to have more less the same control arrangement. Here is how the PCB looks like. (NOTE: a work in progress) It is designed to use 12x12 buttons. The space framed yellow is where I`d like to have some extra controls. May other 7 analog inputs be easily enabled? As there are 2 SR left, would it be good idea to have some F buttons or maybe encoders to send volume CC or something? I really have no idea how to use that space wisely. If I`m programmer I`ll find some cool usage for it, but I`m not. I thought to ad 2x16 LCD there but I don`t find it very useful. MB808 is just fine without it. Any suggestions appreciated.

Thank you. Thanks Goblinz. I get this djembe really cheap 25 EUR as it has crackle in top of body around the knot. It is really small and I`m planing to seal it with some epoxy from inside. The problem is the hole is smaller than my hand, so I`m afraid I`ll need to ask my girlfriend to sacrifice, and try to apply some epoxy. I wouldn`t like to took off the skin as I doubt I would I be able to put it back as it is now. I don`t know if it affects the sound and how much, but to me djembe already sounds good enough. But, I`m not really a percussionist. You are not far from truth, I`m actually planing to midify it, but not wirelessly. Some wireless MIDI interface would be really cool to have.

I catch some free time today to play with my new toy and I really like it! :)

I assembled this x0xb0x for a guy from the local batch.

Vlad, I`m really not sure what exactly are you trying to do, and why. If you satisfied with brightness of your LEDs with whatever value of resistors, just solder it all on their places. That is last step in building the x0x, so you will see if there are some problem with LEDs or not when you start it, but as the sequencer is fairly simple I wouldn`t expect any LED problems. Just build it, man!

Thank you.

To test the LEDs in their places you need to finish PSU and sequencer.

Did you test it with your LEDs? If it gives you light intensity that you like, it is not too high even 22K sounds too much.

I finished my clockbox. So, here it is...

I visit KokiPsiho some week ago to see his freshly built MBSEQ and check how it get alone with my x0x. I took some pictures, uploaded it to my flickr and sent him the link, but he never post it on a forum. As I think it looks pretty good and very well build it deserves some promotion. So, here it is... I`m posting the pictures and he can wright some info about it himself if he like. bigger picture: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3091/3098416867_bd3a14690c_o.jpg You probably can`t read the labels. It is Cyrillic. ;) bigger picture: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/3098416861_e118f0b1a6_o.jpg bigger picture: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/3098420363_866737f92d_o.jpg

Not really, I did the same before, many times. Mostly with plywood and MDF. If you screw two boards together before sanding you can make this job even easier. Try to do it with some scrap piece of acrilic. It only depends of your manual skills. Good thing.. as corner radius isn`t fixed value, you can correct eventual errors many times till you get it right. :)

Thanks. Cost depends only which service you are using for cutting. I changed few of them, and the price difference is huge. As cutting is charged by time, some services are cutting with low power/speed so machine work much longer and they charged more it should. To cut 2 pieces like these (3mm thick), it takes about 1 minute in worst case. The only online service I know is the one I linked below. Send them an email and I`m sure you`ll get quick answer. I met the owner over flickr, and he seamed a cool guy. Anyway, this piece is really easy to make the same if you cut that acrylic by hand. It is square, so you wan`t get anything if you do it using laser. You can make it in a half an hour including sanding and assembling. To me it was easier, as I already cut something so I add this to the batch.

..yeah clean, but house isn`t. It took a lot of sanding and many layers of painting.The day was rainy and cold, so I had to do it in a house. And I made some mistakes, so I had to do more than I planed (trimming the opening on subpanels to fit the LCD properly). I prepared files for cutting too quickly without much checking. So, it could be cleaner. ;)

You probably right about the buttons, but this whole unit is made mostly out of recycled parts and pieces of acrylic that I dug from the manufacturers scrap box, so it should be cheap at first place. I now somehow regret because not using some DIY illuminated buttons, but I couldn`t afford it in this momment, and didn`t wanted to wait for better times as with rest of the projects. I have too much unfinsished, boxless projects laying all around my house. And women... they just don`t have a sense for PCB art standing on a book shelfs. So I really wanted to finish this one as quickly as possible.

Very good idea. I love it! :) I`m sure it is better protected from dust than mune, as my GM5 lies on floor. Let`s see some more GM5 housings. Everybody..?

Cool, thanks Steve.

I`m working intensively to finish the clock box this weekend. It turned out, as always, there is a lot more work involved than I was expecting. The case is made out of, of course, lasercut acrylic. The case design is very similar as I did for my Chronulator (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fibra/sets/72157605121536800'>http://www.flickr.com/photos/fibra/sets/72157605121536800) This time I used Bison Plastic for glueing parts by advice of my laserman. It is very good glue. Much better than superglue as it gives you the time to position the parts unlike superglue. I`ll post small pictures as there are alot of them. So, if you like to see it bigger visit my flickr page. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fibra) Going back to work...

Thank you all. Madox, this is really small piece to cut, and just 3mm thick, so machine really cuts it quickly. I construct all I can using laser cutter. I have my own laserman who gives me discount for personal projects because he thinks I have some cool ideas. How nice is that? :) If I`m right, you are, like Stryd and Wilba from Australia too. There is a cool service in your neighbourhood - New Zeland, that you could try. Check out www.ponoko.com

I`m not sure how to call it. Maybe, PCB protector. :P I don`t like dragging around exposed GM5 all the time, so I made this simple and cheap half box. It is laser cut acrylic, but it can be easily hand made out of any material. My laserman cut it out of white acrylic by mistake, so it looks like it is designed to go nice with Mac accessories, but that wasn`t my intention. It should be made out of smoked transparent acrylic, but what the heck.

Jason, it is OK. I just wanted to hear if somebody build the synth from this batch. Seams I`m the only one. Strange. My reason was problem of getting the right oscilator, but chips was soldered long time ago. Thanks, but I don`t want you to do it. It has nothing to do with you. I know that chips couldn`t be easily tested and I agree to get it as is and hope they are right. Unfortunatelly not as Smash don`t ship to Serbia. :(

Anybody built MBFM with chipset from this bulk order? I did and failed. Interconnection tests passed OK but testtone app testing failed. First I build it with alternative 16Mhz oscilator and I waited for the 14.318 Mhz to arrive to be sure problem isn`t there. I`m pretty confident in my SMT soldering and I`m sure problem isnt there.

I`m using it, and I`m very satisfied. Very reliable and cheap programmer. Only thing I don`t like is avrdude software i need to use with it. Even copying command instead of typing in the prompt for programming and again for changing each fuse is tedious job. I burned 10 Atmega162 chips last night and I wouldn`t call it fun.

Congratulations Steve, and thank you for nice words. ;)