cimo

.. just wave the voodoo chicken

hey i have to admit (and you too) that you miss some basic knowledge dude, nevermind, this is the right place where to make yourself a grown up electronic geek.Anyway you can t be here asking how to peel a cable, how to connect a LED what s the difference between AC and DC etc etc.I ve found the wikipedia a general good resource for infos and the ucapps wiki has also some basic infos. About your question: the pins are paired, i mean there are 2 pairs and each pair is electrically connected.Now an easy way out is to use to opposite pins and there you go, but if you have a multimeter you can have some fun finding out what is what (you can build a test probe with a battery a resistance and a LED) I would also suggest to try a technique that i ve developed during my first years of life: you need a small tool like a screw driver or such.Then just open the damn thing and have a look inside, you won t probably be able to put it together again, but hey it s fun and you ll learn so much.Don t do it with the PIC, it s not worth it. Another trick is the so called "try and try" procedure which consists in trying all the possibilities, in your case, you have 4 pins that makes 6 possibilities, that ll take less than what it s taking me to write this answer. good luck simone

hey pablo thumbs up !! i am working on a DIY version of the CORE .pcb file for people like you who are etching at home.. looking forward to see it finished! simone

in this multifaceted world i had to find my little category to be king of ... nice to hear you went all the way then, have you moved to enig? how is the response of the buttons? tell us tell us simone

hi no i use bicolor leds from ledtuning.nl but beware that they are common anode. I would wait a bit if you don t want to experiment yourself.Afaik both me and Bugfight are doing other stuff atm so i can t offer a finished idea/development for those buttons. Anyway i can confirm that they are fully usable for MBs simone

my friend Mladen aka Bonnie knows any damn hole in the city and will be there in july for sure, i ll PM you details.. good luck

... when are you going there? i got some good friends there but i won t be held responsible for your physical and/or mental sanity if you decide to catch up with them..

i was definetely going to use a smps for my MBLC, i tested it and it seems to work fine (well my 74165s burned out actually...) so i am wondering and asking if audio equipment is more prone to be affected because of the noise introduced. simone

geee stamp is the right word! and they do it in every city!! i think that with a bit of patience and drill press you can do it in different layers over and over to get it thicker! let s take the SF buttons for example: i would etch the pads prints just as two concentric circle without the tiny lines inside, and then apply the stamp with the liquid graphite here s another option (thanks Karlos!) EDIT: rubber stamp works cause they re used on paper which will suck the ink, hence the more the pressure the more ink you get in the paper.In this case make some kind of thin shim would be required to prevent the stamp to be squished against the pcb (which won t suck any ink) letting the ink go all over the place.

what about your body/hands? i think this part is more delicate at least if we are talking about a UI and not just a "show" thingy for the public. Best thing would probably be using either a belt drive engine or a small electric motor and the receiver photo led in the back side yes i agree on that, unfortunately bigger touchscreens are capacitance based but probably something can be found. simone

..as i told you i think you are a smart guy ;) .. lemme ask a old friend of mine if i can get a SFs pad print laser cut on some plastic sheet.. simone

anybody s got a good idea how to deal with this stuff for rubber button pads? http://www.coates.com/electro/circuits/news/connections/pcb.htm

absolutely lovely:

maybe i was not clear enough, my point is that if the whole thing spins around, how do you think you will send any infrared data? aside from the "leds crown" idea, it could be achieved with a central photoled/led thingy

yep got it in the dock already! thanks simone

ok so you do want it circular! up to taste! cause an IR communication needs the receiver and the transmitter to be in sight of each other. An alternative would be having a crown of receiving leds spinning around while a fixed transmitter sends an interrupted data stream, all synched to the whole system..

..why the loop/seq representation has to be circular? can t it be linear as in a normal sequencers ? and, lately i ve seen quite a lot of spare touchscreens for hand held devices sold on ebay for cheap... some of them has a dual analog output based on resistance ie: the position can be detected by 2 resistance values on the 2 axis.That could be easily interfaced to a couple of AINs. just a thought.. simone EDIT: about the wireless transmission of data i can t understand how you think you could use IR.Isn t a radio transmission required in this case?

... so was that japanese?

hola no se desde cuanto tiempo haces tu propia placas, pero te puedo asegurar que se puede alcanzar un nivel bastante preciso.Yo he empezado a utilizar el metodo del acido muriatico con agua oxigenada a 30vol, lo que me permite de hacer una placa en 30 segiundos de imersion en la solucion, esto elimina el problema de la fundicion del toner por efecto de larga imersion. TE LO PONGO ASI DE GRANDE: ESA SOLUCION ES MUY PELIGROSA!!! SI LA QUIERES PROBAR, PROCURATE GUANTES DE LATEX, MASCARA PARA LA RESPIRACION Y GAFAS DE SEGURIDAD TIPO "SOLDADOR" (NO UNA SIMPLE GAFAS NORMALES TIENES QUE EVITAR QUE ALGUNA SALPICADURA PUEDA PASAR POR ENCIMA DE LAS GAFAS). UNA GARRAFA DE 5 LITROS DE AGUA A TU ALCANZE PARA TODO TIPO DE EMERGENCIA Y SIEMPRE ESTAR AL ABIERTO, POSIBLEMENTE CON UN VENTILADOR PARA ALEJAR LOS GASES. Simone

hi nothing is crunchier than a http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=23 tube preamp circuit with a quality tube stuffed in it. I plan to make a stereo one as soon as i ll get some free time!

rasteri i can ship to you a optocoupler for free the 5th of march from the canary islands, that means it ll take about a week Simone

hi dunno, i have to admit that i see your tactic but i don t see your goal (and i don t even like football, if that matters) i had this kind of problem a few times, independently of my PC, laptop, midi card, osx, it happened a few times, not enough times to be concerned with my java,midi drivers, cheap cables, bad soldering skills, ungrounded mains, whatsoever or whosoever (cause it s my fault) had brought up the problem. S++t happens.I take it like that. The only way out it s been the manual trick and some patience. It would probably work with the automatic "wait for upload request", maybe, probably, again i dunno, doing it manually it worked for me, it worked for others. After i got MIOS installed again it s all fine no more problems, forever, or maybe not, i am not tracking all possibly variations among all the PICs i owned (15?) the different computers (4?) the soundcards (2) the os (3) all the bad cables i always had badly soldered on my boards (xx). I think it s a good trick, but i am ready to understand and accept why it isn t (this is the "i ve been a bit harsh but you know i do respect you" part ;)). If i had constant problems on my uploading procedure then i would understand your point and agree, but i had this problem just a few times because of specific circumstances, usually it is all ok, but sometime it freaks out and no more uploading is permitted.Then i use this trick and it s all good. I am not stopping people to find out if their setup is in good state or not, i am just offering a workaround (or solution) to a factual problem. Geee i got smoke coming out of my ears, you S1 always prove my logical capacity. Simone

this is still to be demonstrated and in case it will anytime i won t believe it, i went through all my philosophy books and nowhere it s said that life without MBing can even be conceived, we all know that the first day god made a little sketch of his box, the second day he downloaded Inkscape the third one he called the CNC guy and so on, this is widely accepted as the only truth and none of you guys could eventually made the truth get wide main voltage guess yes solder ersa bridge could long time resistors net cad polyrhythms .... misnoe

first of all and and no he doesn t and i didn t either! maybe there s been a bit of confusion. Now lemme try to picture the typical situation: -the BSL is intact (this is demonstrated by the fully functional MIOS after using the 2smt (2 seconds manual trick)) -MIOS or an app. are corrupted, probably by a corrupted app, a bad upload (unstable supply, cabling), whatever, the point is that MIOS/app don t react as supposed, don t send the upload request, send weird messages.Something is wrong -we try to upload a new app. but it doesn t work; then we want to reupload MIOS to erase the app and try to fix the app and/or MIOS but with or without the "wait for upload request" enabled it wont start -the only way out in my experience, and Jidis, see http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,7467.msg50414.html#msg50414 is to dump the sysex just after boot, MANUALLY.

My iron (ERSA) has a german plug but i am not sure if all the different cables going to the main have a ground line, i ll check it out when i ll be back home. (still: how does it come that nobody had these kind of problems before?) Simone