Mr modnaR

by "the rest of the stuff i don't need", what do you mean? farnell has a minimum order of £20, true, but i can get 5 (or more) of those in with stuff i need.

does the backlight not have an inverter built in? if not, you can get them.

2n2222 tin can type transistor: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=9206884 58p from farnell. want some?

are they supposed to look like this: if so, i have none on my c64 board. what model/age has these on them?

circled is Q8, but i cannot see any of the others you mentioned, Twin-x. i lifted that metal lid, but there was only a transistor marked 'E'. other than that, there's only Q1, Q2 and Q3 over by the fuse. any clues? edit: i straightened the one marked 'E' under ther the metal lid, and written underneath was 'Q7', cheeky little blighter was trying to hide it's identity! any clues on the rest?

well, i can give you q8. but for the others, i need to know where they are on the pcb, i cannot find them. :-[

fyi, i did a search on farnell's website, and all that came up in that SOT23-5 package were: a regulator (3.0V), an op-amp, and the rest (all 23 of them) were transistors.

all i found so far is the name of the pin configuration, which is: SOT23-5 dunno if that helps you at all. ???

how well did the sonyericsson phone deal with multiple inputs though? is that not the innovation? i remember seeing a video on a large touchscreen lcd panel, that was deemed to be revolutionary/borderline star trek.

damn, i missed this, happy belated birthday tk!! what did you get? ;D

so do i, where are they all? i found q8, not the others though... i'm talking about on the c64 mobo, i don't actually need any. ;)

i'm on the lookout for a starter motor for my UFO, so, if anyone needs helps building their midibox, you know what to get me. ;) ;D nah, i think this is one of those things where, if both people are polite, it'll happen the right way, ie one gets helped, the other gets dosh/beer/parts. problems arise if one thinks 'oh, but he didn't help me enough' or 'the last one didn't show his appreciation, so i'm gonna charge this sucker double'. best thing to do is to ask the person what they think, or at least enquire if there's anything that they need. also, if you're being helped, allow the helper to 'defer' his favour, it might be more convenient for both parties, plus it makes you feel like you're in the mafia. [/random tangent]

who's newark?

http://www.rjselectronics.com/pages/view-products.php?parentID=7

that is a great place, thanks!

i'm not sure how doable a rubber coating is on a pre-existing case, i think it's made when the case is made, and they fuse that way. at a push, you could stretch a condom over your synth. ;D as for where i get these things, any automotive paint supplier should do. we use GB Refinish http://www.gbrefinish.co.uk/ if you call them, ask for Jason or Ty (i think that's how you spell it). i have no idea what prices these sprays are, i just order them and use them. ;D

great, thanks tk. i know it's not an excuse, but as i don't have an mbseq, i really have not a clue how one operates it! cheers.

i haven't actually tried it on acrylic specifically, but if you use adhesion promoter, it should be fine. basically what that does is similar to chloroform, in that it melts the acrylic, only it just melts the top surface, which remains 'soft' for a couple of minutes, which allows you to spray on paint or texture spray (or whatever you like) after which it's chemically bonded to the plastic.

depends how wide the grooves are really. if they're about 1mm, the spray should find it's way in. if they're narrower, you'll more than likely not notice any toolmarks. the suggestion of texture spray was really to cover up any filler that you use to mask joins.

well, if you use thick enough acrylic, that should suffice, but you could also add a thin strip round the inner edge of either shell. make it overlap the shell's edge, and it will locate in the other half.

you can vacuum form acrylic sheet. the radii between the form and the flat mesh are usually what puts people off, plus you can sometimes get bubbles if you're a bit over zealous with heating the stuff. if you make the form that you want, then add another inch, you should have enough material to have a clean edge. funny vacuum forming story: when i was at art college, a girl had brought a change of underwear in her bag, which i stole and vacuum formed onto a sheet of card, which had been printed with her name, and a special offer price on it. it was then pinned to the notice board. she still hasn't spoken to me.

don't look now jidis, but i think there's a baby godzilla in your house!!

FYI: you can also get texture spray, which give a 'grainy' texture before painting. i use this at work for car bumpers, where scratches have been filled, and would show up as smooth otherwise. perhaps the acrylic that has been milled away could be given a coat of that to hide the tool marks, and to blend it in with the rest of the C64 case. the rased parts should probably be left smooth to make it easier lettering-wise. hope this helps.

just a quick question: where is the 'move' button? i don't yet have an mbseq and have used all the legending from your box TK. i don't see a move button, is it called something else? thanks

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060118801&r=2193&g=115 ;D all my comments were suggestions, but once you've used a tool designed for the job you're doing, you always think 'what was i doing before??'!! yes, i saw, i replied too! that forum doesn't seem to send me an email when someone replies to a watched thread, even though i have that option ticked in my profile settings. strange.