Mr modnaR

http://www.pollin.de/shop/detail.php?pg=NQ==&a=NDQ4OTc4OTk= that's the led light box. i don't remember the thread, perhaps AC can help you there. personally, i don't like the EL foil backlight, it just seems dim to me. that's not just on the s950, but on other things i have too. the led backlights are just better imho, brighter and longer lasting.

thanks stryd. if the circuitry gets moved, where does it go to? there's limited space outside the industry standard outline of 182mm x 33.5mm. i'll try and take some pics to show eveyone. it'd be good if the lcds just went straight in, as anyone with a dud EL backlight would need worry no more. although they can be replaced, they will eventually go bad again. that's not to mention the inverters! (they buzz after a few years usage!) cheers

AC posted a link to an LED lightbox to go on one of those un-backlit lcds. it says it's 5mm thick on it's own. you should definitely ask about the s950 again! if it's in good condition, i'll buy it! ;D

ahh i see now! lol. what's 100% WAF??

thanks for the link, but i need the lcd and backlight to be ~5mm, not just the backlight. sorry, should have explained better!! the lcd on the s950 has an EL backlight which is just a sheet, which allows the whole unit to be about 5mm thick. i want to replace the whole lot with another lcd that has an led backlight (the idea being durability), but most lcds appear to be quite a bit thicker than 5mm!!

sorry, couldn't resist. :-[

artesia the red-nosed fake reindeer. ;D lol at the avatar.

merry christmas to everyone too! you need a swinging bauble too!:

the issue was the lack of an 'ee' (or 'ed' as they say in the EN of GLAND :P ;D)

i feel kinda responsible, cos i should have picked it up before, when you posted the design pics. :-[

sorry to say this after such excellent work, but 'synthesizer' (also 'synthesiser') is spelt 'synthsizer' on both, was that intentional?

Hi all, has anyone seen a thin led backlit lcd on their travels? just got an Akai S950, and although the screen and backlight work fine now, i'd like to know where to get an LED backlit screen to replace it with when/if it goes. the problem being that, because the original is EL backlit, the screen is very thin, although the mounting brackets are just little tabs, so i may be able to place the screen on the other side of the tabs if the screen has to be thicker. the other problem is powering the backlight. i think the inverter+EL sheet combination is low current, so attaching an LED backlight to that circuit is going to cause bad things!!! any ideas on either problem??? thanks in advance

it will work wit plexi glass, but you have to be vey skilled to get a perfect result. possible problems include bubbles in the plexi caused by too much localised heating and an uneven curve due to heat source being too small. for a decent sized rack unit, i'd definitely recommend using an electric bar heater, rather than a hand held heat gun, but that's just me, and i'm fussy (especially around this time of year, "Bah! Humbug" ;D)

yes it is, check the MIDIbox SID DIN pdf: http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs/mbsid_din_default.pdf the select#5 and menu buttons are on the same shift register as the menu encoder. encoders just act like two switches, if that helps

iirc all plexi can be bent like this, though it is hard to get an even curve, unless you have a really nicely made former.

i've tried to do this design, but it won't work i'm told. you have to have three 6V secondaries and use one for the 5V supply, and the other two for the 12V. read through this embarrassing saga to find out why: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=7389.msg49565#msg49565

yeah, this looks like a doable project!

something involving dissected mice? (computer mice, obviously!!)

i still prefer the caterpillar track idea, with maybe some visual feedback (leds up the side?) rather than being motorised. the motors add to the complexity (and hence: the number of things that can go wrong) and also add to the weight and make noise too! i kow m-audio did a MIDI controller with touchpads instead of faders, but this conveyor belt idea seems like it'lll work well, and be doable by most.

shouldn't be too hard to do, either carve it out of a thicker block of wood, or else make a two part 'mold' and laminate several layers of thin stuff. time consuming, yes, but worth it imho.

yeah, that's called stereo lithography. it's more for prototyping in the sense of getting an idea of what something looks like in 3d, rather than making a finished article. the resin's probably not strong enough to last in the thicknesses needed for a c64 case. in a few years maybe they'll have something....

wow, that's come out really well sasa, i'm impressed!!

rswww.com have a slovenian website: http://www.rs-components.at/ hope that helps.

where do you live? http://rswww.com do it.

i used to get laughed at at school too...... ::) ;D thanks, and.... ....thanks.