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Okay Mac gives this info: Version: 0.04 Bus Power (mA): 500 Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec Product ID: 0x2131 Vendor ID: 0x0547

Yeah, I can try it at work. Will Mac OS X at least see the id or give information?

Okay, so now I have my eeproms and I'm trying to get it working again. I got some other firmware and stuff but there seems to be and issue. Windows identifies it as a usb device, but that its ID is 0000. WOuld this be the case before you loaded the driver or does this mean theres some physical problem with the module? Also the light in the top left of the module (one of the activity lights) appears to flash now and then, this is strange as there is nothing connected. In the second module no less than 3 of the activity lights are lit, but there are lit statically and don't flash.

Don't forget to hit ratsnest afterwards. Also, if you want larger/smaller spaces between the traces and the ground plane by setting "isolate" which is an option that appears in the menu when the tool is selected (polygon tool). This was the first question I had once I was able to make the polygon work.

If you're trying to print off an Eagle design, how do you have it make that huge ground plane? I can't find any option to do it and I only get traces and pads.

Okay, I removed the very LM317 from the board (this thing is starting to look pretty roughed up) and I assembled a test circuit. http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/LM317/ The only difference I can see in these circuits is that there is that diode, and the Pic Burner uses all 3 legs of the pot (which I think makes no difference). Does anyone know what the diode is supposed to do?

Okay, So with new batteries and after checking the orientation of all ICs and any shorts but it still is broken. With the dial all the way left (measured no resistance) there's no heat coming off the IC and the voltage is ~2v. Even after being left for some time there is no significant heat. With the dial half-way right (957 Ohm) the LM317 starts becoming extremely hot. It seems like this works with the balance of the 220Ohm Resistor and the pot. Is this correct? If so which should I be increasing (pot side or resistor side) to possibly stop this from happening?

Thanks for the offer, but there's another option that allows me to get the chips without having to bother with VAT and shipping, but I dare not mention what that is.

Not sure what you mean by debugging. Do you mean the process of having it identified and then loading the program onto the eeprom? That's all I want to do. If you mean to imply that I'll be writing any code for the USB module... I'm not. I certainly hope the alternate or original firmwares are sufficient.

Okay, just to make sure: If I do find a alternate Windows driver, I can use it to get the thing working, then after that I can upload the .bin provided by Thorston? Or are there other bin files and hex files too?

Okay, in terms of eeprom how about a X24C00P? http://www.chipdocs.com/datasheets/datasheet-pdf/XICOR/X24C00.html It says it's a "128bit (16 x 8bit) serial E2PROM"

Really? That's really weird. I'll try and look for alternatives. Does this possibly mean that the eeprom (.bin) file wouldn't work if I happened to upload it? Side note: I was wondering just now whether you had any stats to how many midiboxes were out there, and of which kind. It seems like an interesting idea, I guess Smash/Mike could shed some light but it'd be interesting to know how many were out there.

Hey, thanks for the responses... Kris, I wasn't implying that the units in particular were bad, far from it, what I was wondering was whether it was a deprecated chip because of OS upgrades etc or something else that might have happened since then. The unit looks in good working condition and the SMD looks to be well done and undamaged! One problem though was that .1uf ceramic caps were used instead of 1uf electrolytic caps, but I replaced those. Thorsten, it indeed asks for drivers when I plug it into my XP machine, I located the folder with the drivers but it responds saying there was nothing in that folder that could be used. Also I had moved the .inf and the two driver files into my System32 folder and it appears to have no effect. Is there something else I should be doing apart from trying to browse,find and select the firmware files? I'm a little spotty on driver installation. I will locate the proper eeprom chip so that I might upload it forever.

Like I said, or should have said, there was no eeprom on the board, so I was thinking of using a (very definitely) 512k eeprom. Lall... :( I don't know anough about this sort of stuff to use that information, though it seems very close to helping me. If I could burn the eeprom though, however that might be possible... would it work on Windows and other OS'es afterwards or is the USB module completely defunct? It seems like it wasn't very popular and not one has really posted about it since 2003.

Also, is there any information for installing the firmware onto the eeprom in Windows XP? It appears as if it doesn't work (it just doesn't identify the driver files as valid when I browse and find them). I've even dragged them into the System32 folder and no such luck in identifying the module. I even unplugged the eeprom. Starting the ez-usb control panel says there's nothing plugged in.

Right, I understand this, so you agree it might be advisable to add a more powerfull resistor? Also I can change P1 into a much higher value pot, not sure I have any trims, but I can use a regular 100k pot or something. Thanks again for the help. I checked to make sure the trim pot is 2k, and the resistor 220 ohm (not 220k or anything). The two legs closest to the LM317 are connected to each other. So would it help to replace the trim pot with a larger one or not? I can put it left and right and the voltage changes, but never all the way up to anything above 3v.

I was given the USB module with the SMD already on the board. It doesn't have a eeprom though, so I have to figure that

I have a question about the USB module. It says you need a 24LC64 eeprom for the project, but I wonder, is it okay to use a Microchip 24LC512-I/PG in place of the 24LC64? I realize that the 512 is hugely larger, but I have a number of those around because I bought 3 and got a couple samples too. I assume I can change it to a LC64 later, but wonder if I can get it functioning with a 512 first?

I'm sorry, yes I have indeed been changing the values on the Pot. It's a 2k pot and I've moved it extreme left and extreme right. It goes from 3 volts to 1 volts. Should I put a largish resistor between the pot and the LM317 so that it (permanantly) adjusts to a higher voltage setting?

I made very certain there are no shorts in the LM317 and that it's the right way around. It is way too hot to touch, not sure if that means it's zapped or not, I don't think it was left like that for very long. Can I just use a 12V psu? Or do I need that extra half volt?

I had checked them already, I did it again and they're fine. Even though the LM317 is the same part I still consulted the pinout and there are no reversals. The voltage from the batteries are not 18v, they are less. So why should the LM317 get so hot though? If it's not exactly the right voltage I don't see why it would get so hot.

Does no one have any idea why the LM317 would be getting so hot? Or why the voltage woul be so low. I'm getting about 12 volts off of the two batteries in series and I've moved around the dial (P2) to see if the voltage changes but there is nothing significant happening. I've checked all the pinning and traces. Has anyone built this? Should I used a PSU instead of the batteries?

Hey, I built a PIC burner but for some reason with 2 9V in series I can't get anything over 3v on the test pins. I've poked around and it looks like my LM317 is getting really hot, and also there's only about 3v coming off my 78L05 too. Can anyone explain how the PSU is working and how I might troubleshoot?

I'll take one, I'm a poor student with only a part time job

This MIGHT be it: 593-3130CTP (Mouser part number)