napierzaza

Touching the power inputs are going to change the resistance of the connection. Maybe you should try resoldering those wires/pins. Also, I found that lowering the volume of the FM using MIOS improved the sound output (I think it was peaking in a funny way).

EDIT: Okay, maybe I wasn't clear enough. I'm going to edit my whole post I have checked my DIN Connections and everything traces fine to the core. For some reason there is not a single button that I can push that causes any change on the LCD. Are there additional things I should upload to tell the FM that there is a control surface? Also what are the bankstick.hex and bankstick.syx ? Are these the same files which can be loaded in the two different methods (ie they're encoded for mios loading etc)? OR do I have to load only one type? Using jsynthlib and it's supposedly working. How do I upload the 3 default presets onto my 4 24lc512 banksticks? Is the addressing A,B,C ??? This is the equivalent to A0,A1,A2 for the banksticks? It plays every preset as it loads each individual one, but I am unsure how to make it switch to those specific instruments. It's also ambiguous whether there would be an error in the application if it failed.

Yes I do, I looked at mine, and it's fine (unbroken).

Why does it look like there is a broken trace between your YMFs? Also the interconnections to the Pic board have pins, I think people usually recommend direct connections in place of the pins. But I can tell you that it will make your life easier.

So if I went the way Smash said, what will this do? I put together a smash board for FM some time ago and it never worked at all, are the components damaged or do I only need to swap out the correct parts for the mistakes listed? Also, I'd like a copy of the original gif or pdf so I can compare what exactly would be wrong on the board. I can't find any copies of what I have already made.

Okay, well considering I can't really seem to test the voltages I'll just pop some new amps in and see if they fizz.

Indeed, I'm in Montreal Canada. I hope there's someone. :-\

That's all well and good. But I presently do not have any chips, and do not really want to purchase a programmer (I only want a 1-bit synthesizer!). So unless there's one made for PICs (which I DO have a burner) I'd rather buy a pre-burned chip from elsewhere.

Okay, I guess yours is an option of the system. Ah well, I was hoping there'd be some how-tos somewhere. Haven't found anything. One of these days......

Does anyone know how something like the LCD of a Technics receiver would work? It's has an encoder that switches through the different audio inputs in the receiver. One comes up on the LCD as "TV" another "CD" etc etc. Where is the actual name values stored? Has anyone ever looked into changing this sort of thing? I'd really be interested to know how they work.

Anyone have an Atmega programmer? I built the 1-bit synth and a ISP for the ATMEGA some time ago, but the programmer never worked. After some fiddling I destroyed the chips I had and gave up. But now I'd like to get it working, so if anyone has any Atmegas, and a prorammer I'd pay to have it burned and sent to me :-)

Tilted. it looks like you actually haven't modifed that picture, and it's super small. Could you post a more clear one? I screwed up with my PSU because I just ordered what was recommended. Looks like it's just a 12v center tap. I'm trying to find a new transformer with a center tap but it's not easy. Okay, well I most certainly destroyed the op-amps. Is there anything else that would have been affected by this? I suppose it could have burned out the op-amp and then burned out the DACs ? I am trying to measure the voltage for the op-amp supply lines. I put my multimeter on the - and + and I get no reading at all. Is there any reason for this?

Wait, are you guys implying I fried my Midibox. *Sigh* I'm tearing out the PSU now and will check and see if I can determine the transformers voltage and what I can do with it in its present state.

Oh, I'm guessing I got this kit based on your recommendation! ARgh! I was hoping to solve my problems by buying this kit. But it looks like I just wasted my time/money.

Oh, so it's dual wave than? How would I go about measuring this? I'm starting to think this isn't going to work for some time...

1) Half wave PSU? What does that really mean? Is there a way to make it work full wave? Why do I have to make sure I'm not drawing more current than I would already? And how? 2) Yes, don't worry about that. ;-)

This is the kit I bought. As you can see it's two wire input and one transformer. I can't explain how this works but there it is. http://www.canakit.net/Default.asp?Contents=/Include/Template/MenuCat.asp&Main=http://www.canakit.net/Contents/Items/CK342V12.asp

It's not a 12v supply. It's a center tapped 12v supply that I'm only using the outside contacts in a regulation circuit. Somewhere in this forum it was suggested so I bought a Cana-kit for a 12 regulated supply and got the transformer too. I'll look for shorts. Tricky, hope it's not in my FM module as it's not connectorized.

Okay, added the wire from the 12v supply to GND of the Core board. No smell and the volume seems fine. However, after a few minutes running the LCD started flickering. It had just formatted my banksticks. I turned off the unit and all the regulators were very hot (12- 12+ 5+) which is strange. I hadn't played a note at all but the 12v regs were hot! I have a 9vac adaptor (1000mA) and a 300mA for the 12 supply. Is this not enough? PS: The actual transformer for the 12v supply is hot too. Very strange EDIT: Actually even though the tone program is gone, it was still making the tone! What's the deal with that? My LCD say's Rhodes piano and I assume it wouldn't even make noise unless I asked it to...

Oh wait, you mean the grounds. On closer inspection I may not have! This is due to having a different setup with my original PSU and changing it with this one. I'll solder on the interconnection tonight. This was bad for which parts? I don't think I broke anything but the smell is rather suspicious.

Ov lines? As in the middle connection in a transformer? I don't think my 5 v has one, but the 12v does. I'm not connecting it to anything. What should I connection the middle wire of my transformer to?

I finally got time again to work on my Midibox FM. Last time I left off I had a switching power supply that I have now done away with. I'm now using a 9v AC supply going through the onboard 7805 and I have also setup a 12v linear circuit with another transformer. I loaded the test tone application and connected it to a cheap mixer I have and I got a VERY loud signal. Seems very maxed out but every channel works fine. HOWEVER a burning smell began emmenating from my MIDIBOX while I was testing which made me immediately turn off and unplug absolutely everything. I opened the case and inspected, nothing visibly burnt but the top-right amp was particularly hot! Nothing else in the case was significantly hot and there is nothing burning. Is this smell dangerous or common? COuld it be how my MIDIBOX is hooked up to the mixer (ie the amp is so high it's feeding back)? What else should I inspect? Considering the tone was continuous the entire time I assume the burning was NOT the system falling apart in any appreciable way. Please let me know, as I am unsure how to proceed!

Is the operating voltage the same as the 4620? Also, what program would effectively burn it?

Can this be burned by the current Midibox Burner module?

Having a supply of just YAC-only cards (if they were cheaper) sounds like they could be useful. But then again regular YMF+YAC cards are 2-3 dollars so no worries really.