Jump to content

m00dawg

Members
  • Content Count

    1,382
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Everything posted by m00dawg

  1. You can certainly use Renoise to interact with MidiBox gear, I've done some of that. It's not quite the same as using, say, GoatTracker or dedicated SID trackers, but it does work and does allow you to do some effects like you would using a dedicated SID tracker. MidiBox SID treats the SIDs differently than a typical tracker which is one way it can produce some really rich and interesting sounds but which differ from how one would approach using the SID in a tracker. MBSID treats the SID sort of like its own complete instrument, whereas a tracker treats each voice as an instrument. Ultima
  2. Hmm I think the issue might be related to needing to update the MBSID firmware. Looking at the ARM2SID page, this jumps out at me: "Expander emulation is possible only if the adapter or board supports DFxx addressing on the second socket (e.g. MixSID and ULTIMATE-64)." This would imply to me that MBSID doesn't do this out of the box, but likely could with some modifications.
  3. Do you hear sound from both the left and right output? If so, you definitely have 2 SIDs. Per the docs, the SIDs are grouped into stereo pairs. So the sammichSID, while it does support 2 SIDs, maps them to left and right. So it only has 1 SID group but 2 actualy SIDs. You can use the multi-engine to control the SIDs independently, however. And you can also use the stereo for some really neat effects (like setting an LFO on each of the SID's PWMs at a slightly different rate). Have a look at ucapps.de for all the MidiBox usage documentation on how to use the multi-engine if you really want
  4. I haven't used PickIt for MIDIBOX stuff but as I recall, if you're getting that error it may be because you need to elect to power the chip using power from the Pickit itself (as in the chip is not being powered externally). If it's for the CORE8 platform, it should be a 5V PIC. It takes some fiddling to get it working I found when I've had to use it.
  5. Just to close the book on this topic, I found 220 Ohm to be quite nice with my old control surface (using SmashTV's yellow LEDs). I would guess my previous dim LED woes were due to some issue with the previous board and/or the power supply. It looks great and they're plenty bright (but not too bright) to be quite usable.
  6. Figured out the answer! It's the CC button on the control surface, duh! Of note, for those that haven't dove through this part of the manual, it is for the Knobs Assignments. On the MB6582 that would be the 5 envelope knobs - the ones below the matrix - when you have Control set to Knob. I only got as far as to look at teh CC events in Midi-Ox so haven't actually tried to use them yet.
  7. Yes it is! In my last attempt to build an MB6582, I never got it stable enough to actually mess with the control surface :P So it's been a lovely treat! Really looking forward to using it in earnest for some music!
  8. Had at least one person mention they cannot create a new account on the forums. I tried to create a test account just now on both Firefox and Chrome and was also unable to do so. The Captcha consistently says it fails (and there is no way to retry) even when it appears correct. I put this in news since it's not related to MidiBox hardware directly and wasn't sure where else to put it, but though I would raise the issue for visibility as well. More info is on the Discord.
  9. Finally got my MB6582 working after a VERY LONG time. At any rate, now that I have a full control surface for the MBSID (which by the way is quite intuitive - major kudos to TK, Wilba, and others that worked on it - it's just beautiful!) - I was trying to see what knobs, if any, would be sent to MIDI OUT. Since these are encoders, I figured they wouldn't be the best option for knob tweaking so it's not a huge deal if there is no way to handle knob output over MIDI - I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I thumbed through the manual on ucapps and didn't see much mention of it b
  10. m00dawg

    MB6582 Fan

    Update, I'm rocking the Noctua (NF-A4x10, 5V) and am running it off the 5V header. At full speed it is a tad loud but does seem to keep the SIDs rather cool. I do have heatsinks on them but the heatsinks without the fan get warm (not hot) to the touch after some time of running. As expected the ones furthest from the fan are warmer than the ones next to it. All of them seem to be cooler to the touch though. So far it doesn't seem to make a huge impact to the 5V rail. I'm using the 5V switcher often recommend, although I am using it in an external power supply I made and am supplying the 6582 w
  11. Quick update on this, the method worked wonderfully! I've got my MB6582 up and running using this method. The only thing I had to do we Dremmel the backside of the top half a bit (in the front) as my right angled connections were a bit too tall (the JSTs are on the baseboard and I'm using the JST cables though couldn't find the right angled JSTs outside of AliExpress and figured that would be a long wait). Apart from that, it's working beautifully!
  12. Ah all good points! I managed to jam the resistors into the holes enough to test the control surface (carefully) and interestingly enough, the LEDs seemed brighter than they were previously. So wondering if something was up with my old baseboard maybe. I'm using the switching regulator often recommended here for the 5V, although I have it in an external enclosure such that voltage sag may be an even bigger issue for me perhaps. I'll have to see. So far so good though, but I don't yet have the baseboard fully populated (which may also explain why the LEDs are brighter perhaps if voltage sag bec
  13. Curious what resistor values folks are using with their LEDs? I'm using SmashTV's yellow LEDs and found that with 220 Ohm resistors, they seem to be a tad dim. I can tell which ones are illuminated but it tends to blend in. Since I had to solder up a new baseboard (which is working yay!) I was thinking of using something more like 100 Ohm. These are the values I calculated with the new amber LEDs I bought (in the event I couldn't repair my existing control surface). I tested the resistor values on both (with a constant 5V rather than a matrix) and it seems to be subtle for both SmashTV's
  14. ooooh the thumbwheel is a great idea! Adds even more cool-points and polish to the build too!
  15. Yes I agree with Hawkeye, beautiful work! Curious, how taxed does all this make the 5V rail? I was looking at LED choices (should I be unable to repair my old control surface and have to solder together a new one) and the number of LEDs on the panel given each LED's mA had things at like 2.7A if I did my math right. That's well above the 1A max of a typical 7805? I'm using the fancy 5V switching regulator now often recommended but back when the MB6582 first hit the scene as it were, a regular 'ole 7805 was the norm. Seems like it worked fine as far as I have seen, but curious? Sorry
  16. Yeah your price list (thank you again by the way!) had an Adafruit RGB LCD on there as I recall. I wasn't sure where I might want to place the pots. If I want one of the standard 6 or so colors, I could use just resistors (though I think an amber would require a mix). Their inverted 20x4 definitely looks nice!
  17. I hadn't known about this project until like last week. Finally saw the overview video and this is VERY VERY cool! Highly impressive, kudos folks! Adding this to my "I wanna build" list :)
  18. Since I'm working on my MB6582 again (and by working I mean mostly building a new one since I've lifted several pads off my old baseboard trying to get the control surface wiring working), I was thinking of updating the LCD. I have one with an amber/orange background on dark letting now. I know for a while there the inverted LCDs were something CrystalFontz sold, but I only see a few color combinations. Adafruit sells a 20x4 display that's RGB but I'm not sure how I could use it with the MB6582? Curious what folks are doing these days with their LCDs? At this point I'll just be happy to h
  19. m00dawg

    MB6582 Fan

    As fine as one can expect in 2020 :P But hey for all the crap 2020 was it at least got me back to working on my MB6582! Although by "working on it again" it's mostly populating new boards :P The new JST connectors are a game changer! So here's hoping I can finally have a functional 6582 after t....err some amount of years ;) Ah...hmm...I was asking as I tried to find some on Mouser (US) but wasn't able to find ones that look like they would fit. I am using the slide on ones at the moment but was thinking something more low profile and with less mechanical concerns might be better.
  20. m00dawg

    MB6582 Fan

    Heya Hawkeye where'd you get those heatsinks? Back to the fans, I use Noctua 40mm in my Deepmind since the stock fans were loud. Prusa 3D printers also use Noctua 40x10's (though I replace those with more powerful fans). At any rate, thought I haven't tested it, my plan is to try out a a 5V Noctua for my MB6582.
  21. Quick heads up on this for anyone that might wanna do this. I had some trouble compiling the above version for Linux Mint 19.3. Couple things you might need to do: ./configure --without-residfp This was giving me a weird "you need to be on a 32-bit platform at least" error (I'm on 64-bit, Ryzen) but we don't need this for outputting to an MBSID anyway The makefiles do not add -pthread. There's probably a more elegant way to fix this, but I just edited src/Makefile and added `-pthread` to the end of CFLAGS, CXXFLAGS and that seemed to avoid the errors You may need
  22. Yes I know this post is 1...err some number of years old, we don't need to do the math (I'm not old!). Anyways can confirm this works on modern Linux (I'm running Linux Mint 19.3 which is based on Ubuntu 18 or 20 I believe). I haven't been able to use my sammichSID to rock some real SID tunes in quite some time! Very cool, thanks aTc!
×
×
  • Create New...