Smithy

Going by the pics on flickr, you'd have to solder a different Voltage regulator for the SID (in IC3, i think), and soldering the different value filter caps for the 6581. EDIT: Im wrong! Theres a jumper select for 6581 and 8580! Thats friggin awesome that ye fitted that in there.

Thats friggin awesome! You never know what to expect is coming round the corner from Wilba! Btw, why does the logo have nILS name written all over it? ;)

I think maybe red knobs would go nicer with the acrylic panel, since you can see the red the PCB, but then again, if i actually saw them i might not think so! The whites will be cool when you get the metal panel, im thinking of doing half red half white myself. (red for the lfo/filter)

:D So let me get this right. Panel screws = 4 less blobs of JB Weld to use?

Have you checked out the Midibox Traktor variations in the User Projects section? http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midibox_traktor Might be worth looking at the threads made by each user outlining how they built them. Does virtual DJ have a midi learn function for controllers?

And heres one with direct control from a keyboard:

This guy is controlling the chip through the mega drive itself: Prophet2612 might be a good name! ;)

D'oh! I never thought of soldering wires that way! And there was me melting the insulation all along thinking it was the only way! You learn something new everyday i spose! :)

Thats really cool, voltage controlled fool! And a very cost effective panel solution too. The clear panels for the x0xb0x are only $20 including the I/O panel, so i guess it would be pretty cheap for mb6582 too. Might even be worth finding out where Ardafruit get the panels made. ;)

Yay, i got something right for once! :D

My apologies, i just saw this now and you realize you need to create your own I/O circuit. If it was me, i know that it would take me tonnes more time to design an I/O than to just buy the STM32 kit, and solder it. Are you sure you could do it faster the other way around?

Thats an interesting one, im guessing you would be missing essential CORE components that do not come in the evaluation board? The optos are the most obvious that spring to mind. Guessing that the SIL pins on that eval board, are directly connected to the pins of the STM32 microcontroller, youd have to build an additional circuit connected to those pins, to have a complete CORE module. Which would defeat the purpose of buying one, because youd have to design an additional board yourself and solder it! Im no expert on this, so i could be speaking waffle for all i know! ;) Btw there will be Core 32 modules with a pre-soldered STM32 chip on the board available, so at least that saves you time soldering 1 component yourself.

CaN i HaS tEh CiRcUiT dIaGrAm PlZ? Seriously though, bulk orders only make sense when there is a minimum order involved, or discount offer on bulk, or when much can be saved on postage. Since smash is the seller, you're saving tonnes already, so theres not much that can be gained here. ;)

Lovely indeed! Mine came monday. Any to any other noobs like me out there, the Panels are not blue, they just appear blue when the protective plastic is on them! D'oh!

Thanks TK, youre a star! :D

Hi TK, im sorry to bother you but i was wondering if there was a quick way of hacking the existing CC/NRPN chart, and replacing it with my own CC/NRPN numbers for the desired parametrs? If you could point me to the file which needs to be edited, and recompiled it would be great. Cheers.

dude

Dawkins

This guy on the left hand side: I prefer largish tips personally, as they heat the pad + joint quicker than the smaller/thinner tips. Thats pretty much your "standard" size, i have a hakko clone myself, and bought fake/clone tips from ebay. I have 3 types, and unfortunately that type i recommended doesnt seem to heat up properly, and fits loosely into my clone's iron. I think I may even be a longer version of it, but it sucks, with your genuine hakko and tip it will fit perfect. So im using this bevel shaped tip now: ...which is a bit tricky to heat both the pad and the Joint at the same time with. I kinda have it turned sideways, heating the joint, and the solder blob just about touches the pad, and i wait for it to flow onto it. An advantage of bevel shaped tips is that you only need a small bit of solder covering the flat bit, with the conical shapes you kinda have to rotate the tip as you tin it, and make sure its covered evenly.

It cant get too hot since its temperature controlled, it will only get as hot as you want it to. The higher the wattage the faster it will heat up, or regain its temperature after you put on a damp sponge. The reason you cant find them is because temperature controlled stations usually only come in higher wattages. If youre willing to spend that much on an Iron my vote would be the Hakko 936.

Forget everything youve been told because it obviously is causing some confusion. The schematic is very easy to read, i was a total noob when i started it and managed to get it working successfully. I found it helpful to redraw the schematic on a veroboard image, so i could visualize it much easier. ( i was using a different type of veroboard though.) If you look at the midibox sid page on the wiki, theres a link to a blog where a guy drew out how it will look visually on standard vero board: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midibox_sid Everything you need is on ucapps, the forum, and the wiki. Everything!

Insanely overpriced company, but if we didnt have the SID Station, we may never have had the midibox SID.

hehe, b-grade is a bit harsh, a business man would describe them as having a "font modification!" ;)

well its not like 2 x 6581 will be useless either, you may even like the randomness of the output! Maybe start a 1 x6581 first using a sid module + core, and then go onto do the mb6582. it would be good practice. And welcome to the forum! :)

I cant understand why they chose that model for the sidstation in the first place!