lucem

Hätte nicht gedacht noch einen in freier Wildbahn anzutreffen. Kann ich verstehen. Wie wäre es statt dessen mit einem richtigen Betriebssystem? (Nur meine Meinung...) Aber mal ganz im Ernst, bei einem >10 Jahre alten Betriebssystem das inzwischen weder von Redmond noch von sonstwo untersützt wird wirst du wohl nur mit viel Glück jemanden finden, der dir helfen kann.

Have you mounted the pull-up resistors on both ends of the CAN-bus?

Ein kurzer Blick in die Datenblätter beider Chips hilft da sicher weiter. Da sind schließlich die Pinbelegungen sämtlicher Varianten abgedruckt...

Da gibt es eine ganze Reihe an Möglichkeiten... 1. Der Parallelport ist auf einen für die Brennsoftware inkompatiblen Modus eingestellt. Abhilfe schafft in dem Fall ein Blick in die Doku und richtiges Einstellen im BIOS. 2. Die Software ist relativ alt und verlangt nach direktem Hardwarezugriff, was unter Windows 2000 und später aufgrund der Hardware-Abstraktion nicht möglich ist. In diesem Fall besorg dir einfach einen entsprechenden Treiber (bspw. bei icprog verlinkt) 3. Die Software funktioniert nicht richtig, aus welchem Grund auch immer. In diesem Fall einfach mal eine andere Brennsoftware, wie bspw. icprog ausprobieren.

Nothing special, an ugly off-the-shelf small pizza oven with a temperature control you cannot even see at all. Just works :)

Download ZIP: http://users.sr-iserlohn.de/swinsid-dip-mb6582.zip I did another, more DIY-friendly version using DIP packages for the AVRs (resistors etc. remain SMT). All hand-routed and with only a handful of vias :) @bugfight's comment: That is usually a good idea if you solder them by hand (and even more if you don't have a soldermask on the board). I usually solder SMTs in a homegrown reflow oven, therefore vias under ICs and close to pins go ok. Anyway, I bet only quite a few people would actually want it all SMT, which is why I made the second one with DIPs.

Bootstrap neu brennen und von vorne anfangen...

I laid out about half of the layout by hand, but interconnections between the two controllers got way complicated due to the limited space. The auto-router produces ugly results, but at least a working one in this case.

I made a SwinSID module for use with the MB6582 yesterday evening. It's based on SMT parts and double-sided, thuis it may not be everyone's favourite, but maybe some people out there may have a use for it. In addition to the "original" SwinSID is also features Atmel ISP10 programming headers for both controllers. Eagle 5.0 project files: http://users.sr-iserlohn.de/swinsid-smt-mb6582.zip File use restricted to non-commercial applications only, as usual. @TK: You are welcome to host the files on the midibox server if you like and change this post accordingly. edit: spell errors corrected

Reichelt got Joysticks (with switch), too, for everyone in or near Germany... Part number is RKJXP122002 http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=3;GROUP=B254;GROUPID=3136;ARTICLE=73910;START=0;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=29GTNDrawQAR0AAEzNeL8b818f36f83eb03fb3bd5a3134141b5ea

The type of capacitor doesn't really matter in theory (and in practice, too, most of the time). When you use metal film capacitors, like WIMA ones, you may (under very rare occasions) catch hum, but this shouldn't be too much of a problem at that stage, as the output signal is relatively strong.

Das was du da planst ist nicht unbedingt trivial... Das Problem dabei ist, dass der MIDI-Datenstrom nicht auseinandergehackt werden darf, weil er sonst nur noch Unsinn ergibt. Du musst also die Messages parsen und in die Ausgabe immer nur komplette Pakete reinpacken. Btw, ich bin derzeit dabei, einen 8x8-MIDI-Router zu entwickeln - allerdings auf etwas anderer Hardware-Basis als das bei midiBox'en üblicherweise der Fall ist. Der Vorteil dabei ist allerdings, dass sämtliche UARTs in Hardware realisiert sind und keine softwarelastigen Soft-UARTs gebraucht werden. Falls da Interesse besteht, so lange das noch nicht fertig ist (danach werd ich das an TK weitergeben) einfach per pm ansprechen...

Sorry to correct you nILS, but you _can_ be drafted to military service at any time, given the need ("V-Fall"). Every citizen inbetween ages 18 and 60 is by default military reserve, even if he (or she!) hasn't served before. It may not seem likely, but in theory, although you refused to bear arms, you may be drafted and must serve. By the way, military service _really_ isn't that much of a great deal - you spend the first three months in "boot camp", which basically means paid adventure vacation for the most part, and afterwards you spend six months sitting aroud killing time in the barracks. Nothing more, nothing less. In my case, serving in Central Medical Service, it was exactly like civil service in uniform.

Quite the same, actually. Or maybe he just didn't see a reason so far for posting... There could by myriads of reasons for someone reading for a time and not post. I don't see a problem there, but then again I can understand that some concerns after the "bl incident" remain. What I don't think is, suspicion and mistrust can't be the answer. They poison a good community around a lot of really great projects from the inside, and repel those who may be called "newbies". I for my part didn't take the offence personally in that case, I knew what was going on and so I clarified things and for good. Btw, my box is still in the works, and the promised dimensions of the boards will make their way to the threat eventually, just haven't yet accurately enough measured them, and I will not post inaccurate information, as other people certainly will rely on it.

Having a star topography power distribution is a definately a good idea. It reduces not only high frequency noise on the supply lines, and resulting problems from that, it also reduces the series resistance in the power supply to the respective module. This (comparatively high impedance) is the source for the low-frequency hum that's especially feared in audio applications, usually at 50 or 60 Hz, so exactly the net frequency of the supply net you get from your power provider. Long power trails, and the resulting higher impedance of the supply lines, especially the ground lines, act like an antenne that catch up the magnetic part of the EM-radiation coming from your power lines, which creates that hum on the audio. So, I'd go for a star power distribution, and have the 2200µF capacitors reduced to between 470 and 1000 µF, but have those on each core; additional 100nF parallel to them sufficiently block digital noise (electrolytic capacitors go "blind" at high frequencies, so their blind impedance goes up instead of down, in the ner of up to 1 kOhms) and are to be mounted on every module (not only the cores). If one (in the rare situation) encounters digital noise and interference event with such a setup, a ceramic capacitor of 22pF can help; if money's not an issue, one may think about inductors in the power lines, in the range of maybe 100µH or higher; ferrite beads on long cables might also dampen noise peaks and voltage peaks breaking through the voltage regulator. If hum and noise build up inside the SID module, one can get rid of if (at least dampen it) by reducing the input impedance of the analog driver at the SID output (thus increasing the load); self-induced noise on resistors etc. builds up squared over the impedance, so even a small impedance reduction can have great results. Of course, ferrite beads etc. can be applied here, too, as well as a bigger coupling capacitor (always make sure that the plus side of it is "inside" the circuit).

I got my "new" C64 chassis today. I'll post the board dimensions later, for C64 as well as C64C (new version) boards, just in case anyone ever in this board will need them, too.

Well, I was jsut hoping that maybe someone has still one lying around and could quickly measure it. If that's not the case, I'll have my replacement in a few days... [edit] Oh, and of course I can share my layouts when they're ready... Would be a waste of effort if I didn't. Oh, and I don't take that personally, I'm used to the problems which can arise, especially with newbies, you never know who's coming in, so that's ok with me. But, please be assured, I may be a newb in the sense of creating my first box, but not in the general means, and as I've been following the midibox project silently for about a year now, I guess it's doable.

Whoa, what a reaction... I don't want to wait for Wilbas 6582, just because I don't have too much fun using pre-made stuff, but rather enjoy the creation of things itself. I don't believe my design to be "better" in any way, for that matter, but that doesn't mean its worse. I like the idea of having the thing fit into the C64 chassis, an that means in a way that it looks just right and professional, not so DIY-like (I guess I share that with Wilba). And, btw, I like SMDs, and my design is based on those parts (actually, there are of course some similarities with the MB-6582, and maybe I'll build one of those too, later, as I like the look of the thing a lot, but not now). I don't intend to sell MidiBoxes (just for that matter, where the hell did you get that idea???) For my background: I'm a computer science student with professional training in electronics (did 3 years before begin of studies). I have more than 5 years of experience designing PCBs and circuits in general, from analog to digital. Right now, I'm expanding my knowledge of programmable logic devices to FPGAs, microcontrollers just don't suffice some of my needs anymore.

Hi there, I'm designing a MidiBox SID v2 these days, and I plan to fit it into the original C64 "breadbasket" chassis. I do have the upper half of the chassis, but I'm missing the original PCB and the lower half, they must have got lost over time... it's been a while since I disassembled my old C64 to get the SID (which luckily I still have). As I'm currently waiting for a replacement from ebay, but don't want my work interrupted, I'd be glad if someone could supply me the the original Rev. A board dimensions and mounting hole placements, if possible.