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Everything posted by latigid on
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That's the correct orientation for RNs. I think the set dout command should still work after an .NGC is loaded. If you can't set the DOUT pins, then the sink side (cathodes) of your matrix don't work. As the behaviour is common to both boards, my guess is that there is an issue on the Core or one of the connecting cables. Check IC1B pins 4/5/6 (4=0V, 5=buffer output, 6=buffer input for SO) and back to PB15 on the MCU. It could be a soldering issue with the J8/9 header, the IC or that the header pins don't make sufficient contact to the female connector or similar. Check IC1B, pins 11/12/13 (RC1) and back to PB12 on the MCU, though the shift in should still occur on the RC2 pulse, which from your working encoders suggests that part of the SRIO chain is functional.
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MDF board to mount control suface compontents... bad idea?
latigid on replied to fallenturtle's topic in Design Concepts
Sure you can buy protoboard without copper or just drop a normal piece in the etching solution or even file off the metal. It's also no issue to widen some of the holes. -
How are your 10-pin resistor networks oriented? The 74HC165 inputs of IC3 should be at about +5V You haven't soldered the switches in, so are you confident that you are properly closing the switch pads? Maybe try to bridge them with metal tweezers or similar. Make sure set debug on is active. You should be able to control the 74HC595 pins (or resistors R1-8 from the MIOS terminal with set dout x 0|1. Each 595 has 8 outputs so IC2 is 24-31 for _R and 0-7 for _L. During normal running of the (correct) .NGC you should measure some voltage on the pins of IC2, which controls the sink driver transistors.
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MDF board to mount control suface compontents... bad idea?
latigid on replied to fallenturtle's topic in Design Concepts
How about veroboard/perfboard? Needs fairly standard spacing to work though. -
Photos of the rear of the PCBs would be good. Did you measure any input with set debug on? Try connecting only JA and test with seq_l. Try connecting only lemec_l and test with seq_r.
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What is the jumper setting with J5? Choose USB to power it this way. (check the +5V rail is not shorted to 0V)
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Thanks for the clarification on the CV channels. I could see a usecase for four modules if the velocity function was added, which I didn't remember BTW! This could add some expression, e.g. as a mod source mixed into a VCA -- great! And the accent trigger on the spare gates is awesome. For the drum triggers, I figured it was a code issue, as the clocks are easy to calculate in advance. In the meantime I think Andrew implemented a pulse stretcher in hardware, but if it is not too much effort I'm sure more software flexibility would be welcomed. Besides, we have the option of the standard trigger length, which I guess is one "step" long? Best, Andy
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Wow, amazing! Are the CVs distributed out on J19, so the same RC1 channel or is RC2 used as well to double the transfer rate? What is the maximum data rate? Is there a functional way to use all 32 CVs with only 16 tracks? Polyphonic tracks? While you are in the code, maybe an extra request from Andrew: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/21161-trigger-outs-4ms/#comment-184712 Is it possible to set (or preset) the drum trigger length to something longer? This is already available for the clocks but I couldn't see an easy way to do it for triggers. I find the proposal too cryptic. It would IMO be more intuitive to display more information on the FX page/menu.
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Awesome, have fun with the CV! A small case is a sensible idea as it can keep the modular addiction contained :) Thank you for the framework and codebase to enable development of these modules. Best, Andy
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#21 ! and Holy Modular Batman! That's all DIY too !!?? Awesome!
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Hello, Peter made an awesome video (4k quality!) demonstrating the assembly of the following modules Euroceiver (line driver receiver in the rack), power distribution A1 Expander (AOUT based on MAX5500) D1 Expander (DOUTX1 for gates plus protection) D2/D3 Expanders (likewise for clocks and triggers) Feel free to use this thread for any discussion or troubleshooting. Have fun building your modules!
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Note that the Wilba board is wired in a way that the switch bodies carry some signals too. Think of the switch with two halves. A A' B B' When the switch is not pressed, A still connects to A' and B to B'. Think of it like a clipped resistor leg soldered between the two PCB pads. The idea/function is to act as a "bridge" to avoid lots of vias or a 4-layer board, as you can effectively jumper the signals over and under each other. When you press the switch, then the switch acts as you think it should and connects parts A + B. Naturally all contacts are connected when the switch is depressed. I would be tempted to load MB_NG and manually check the functions. E.g. you can read DIN events with set debug on (short the "cathode" part of the switch to 0V/ground) and simulate a matrix with set dout x y and try to gauge if the switch works that way.
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Hello, I can't offer much help because I can't quite understand the things I've highlighted in bold. If you can clarify those points I'll do my best. Great! At a guess, the problem might lie with IC4 as it processes channels 7+8.
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Woohoo! If you wish you can post a picture in the main thread and claim your serial number :) http://midibox.org/forums/topic/20885-midiphy-seq-v4/
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Try the boot config on flash. Also rescan devices in MIOS Studio normally doesn't work. At least for me I have to restart each time the MIDI device changes i.e. after each firmware update and reset. Consider the following troubleshooting earlier in the thread: Good luck!
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And how was the display issue resolved btw?
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Did you restart MIOS Studio after updating? You say Discovery, but are you using one of those or a Waveshare 407v board? If it's the latter, what are the settings on the switches? What jumpers are present? You can stuff the JPA0 jumper on the wCore board if you need to reflash from bootloader hold mode.
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MDF board to mount control suface compontents... bad idea?
latigid on replied to fallenturtle's topic in Design Concepts
I can't quite picture the concept, could you draw something? -
Good! Good to know. Depending on the reflow temperature, the component might also be damaged that way. Always check for shorts! On experience this is typically caused by a bad cable or excess copper on the connector end shorting on the OLED PCB. Depending on when your parcel arrived Peter might have put a piece of kapton tape on the OLED. You can try with a piece of paper or tape. Also check R33D on the Core is 560R.
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I would suspect IC4 pin 1, R15, T15, RJ7, perhaps also IC4 pin 15, R16, T16, RJ8. Also check the transistors on the rear of the board and their associated Schottky diodes. Do you still get a DIN event in MIOS Studio? Is the switch soldered in properly? The associated diode? If the other switches in the column work, then the matrix is okay and the issue might be with the LED itself or the switch of course.
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Check T14 and R14! Do you measure any voltage out of pin 2/R14? Follow that down to T14. When you read the T14 label right way up, you should have continuity to R14 on the top-right pin, +5V on the top left pin. The bottom pin is the source current for your green LEDs on columns 3/7.
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Check the green diode functions by using a multimeter in diode mode (black probe to CC pin) directly on the LED legs. Some of the soldering doesn't look like proper joints were made, so make sure to reflow the pins. It would be odd, but maybe on RJ3 and RJ7? The description of the error points more to an issue with IC4 pin 2, R14 (resistor legs too long?), but from your picture these look okay. It might also be T14 on the front side of the board. This part of the schematic is on page 2.
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@knochenfabrik Next steps would be to ask again whether you get any voltage out of the superDAC board channel 8 and then to measure voltages on the components/pins I mentioned. Perhaps take some better photos and lay the voltage measurements on top.
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Any luck on reflowing the components I mentioned? From the behaviour I would guess 8R49 or R57 are not properly soldered.
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8R49 looks like a cold-solder joint.