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Well.. that would work, but seems very convoluted. I'd have to dive into the code to see what is technically making it impossible to just always send clock, I still think that's the most compliant and accepted way of doing things

For example, a TB-303 needs to be "stopped" to program it. But when clocked with dinsync it will "freeze" the moment it doesn't get any clock. The only way to program it when it is slaved to a device (= when a cable is in the dinsync input) that doesn't send clock when idle, is by yanking out the dinsync cord (which is really not practical, nor recommended as this is a fragile connector). My main sequencer (Squarp Pyramid) sends clock when idle (it also has a setting to disable it for people that don't want this). Actually most gear I have does it. One exception is the Alesis MMT-8, exactly the device I was hoping to replace with the LoopA, which I now have to use when a dedicated external clock for this reason.

Thanks Peter for explaining. It's more about compatibility with old machines that need to be "stopped" for programming, but can't be programmed without getting clock (they will just freeze), and how certain clock convertors (dinsync) prefer constant clock. The Midi spec allows both, though between the lines they sorta recommend sending clock when idle. That's bad news for me though as I was planning on using the LoopA as a master clock in my small studio, and glad I asked before I started sourcing parts. Hearing that it's also like that on the SEQ V4 make me suspect that it's not something that could be changed easily in software.

Been considering getting the LoopA. Just one question: does the device also send midi clock when it is not playing? I prefer it like this, but a lot of devices don't do this and it's quite a dealbreaker for me

I guess it's a slightly different part then :) I started modding the power supply of my mixed SID setup yesterday. I only have 15V, 1A.. Will that be enough? 8 sids, full control surface. My gut feeling says it's gonna be fine due to the higher voltage.

look at your picture, bottom right corner: the double line on the silkscreen is visible and the part is overlaying the pcb traces, which suggests the printed side is facing outwards. The legend for pin 1 is correct of course. in all other pictures, the parts printed side is facing inwards, the double line on the silkscreen is covered and the pcb traces are visible.

A while ago I did this mod on one MB6582 and it didn't work. Due to lack of time I didn't troubleshoot it, so now I'm doing the mod on another MB6582, double checking every step. One thing that confuses me is the pic in the initial post.. It seems to have the Recom part (V4) installed backwards. Compare to all other pics in this thread it is installed differently. Looking at the datasheet / pin 1 location, it does seem like the pic is wrong, or its another part/form factor. EDIT: End up building it like I expected worked fine.. Took the older mb, reversed it and bam, works too now.

Cool thanks for the advice guys.. Ordering parts as we speak.. Any advice on C3 voltage rating? The ones I have here are 16V, considering it's a mixed setup that may be too small?

How about the safety of this power supply? How will it respond to over/undervoltage, reversed polarity etc.. I'm considering to mod my MB6582 and those from 2 friends with this, but I want to make sure no SIDs get damaged if a mistake is made.

Thanks for the heads up

https://en.retrogamesupply.com/products/power-supply-for-commodore-64 It comes at a steep price point (€70.00) but it seems very much suited for use with the MB-6582 with much attention to safety: I'm planning to order a few (for myself & friends with similar build), unless anyone tells me not to.. I'm quite scared to use the original C64 psu and I don't want a bulky solution using 2 separate wall warts.

@TK. thanks a million.. my issue was a broken trace underneath PIC 1, causing discontinuity between pins #36 (see attachment). It's fixed now. probably happened cutting the ic-socket, more than 7 years ago.. doh! There wasn't any visual scratch to be seen though... Enjoy the beer

@TK. Wow, it's been almost a year since I followed up on this.. I still have the problem. All my cores have the latest firmware installed, and have correct device id's and respond when I query them with MIOS. Just the cloning wont work, and selecting SID 2..4 from the control surface says "CAN DISABLED". I have almost exactly the same pcb next to it, stuffed with same parts, which does not have the issue. Checked D1_COREx orientation, R80 and such. Removed all cores, checked continuity between D1_COREx's and their respective pin on the CORE Quite clueless atm. Hints are welcome :)

Did that fix the cloning or did it just place the firmware on it? Because you could keep the chips seated where they are and just move the jumper on J11.. It's strange that so many people have the same issue though (i found more topics like this on the forum) I'm having the exact same issue myself.

Old topic bump time I'm having the same issue. Did any of you solve this?

very nice but i think those UV leds are dangerous, sanded or not.

I just released Sync Unit AC which is a mono audio unit that provides Tape Sync (FSK) and a 384 ppqn mode (= Rapid Pulse) -> http://users.telenet.be/darffader/rv0/SyncUnitAC0.2.1.dmg if link dies in the future, you can find it on my website

PM sent :sorcerer: (actually i'll send one after posting this ;)) yeah I must agree with you, they "feel" terrible, especially without the detent. It kind surprised me as the wiki and ppl on the forum say they're very good quality. I expected Bourns to be good brand anyway.. What encoders do you use then? I'm considering not using mine too.. It's a big project and I'm going for pretty high standards (all alps tact switches, machined socket ic feet, crimped connectors, machined socket pins).. It would be a damn shame if those encoders aren't good enough to last in it. So far the feel is disappointing but I can live with that as I expect it to change during usage.

Hi About 2 years ago I bought 45 encoders from SmashTV. I read about them here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=encoders There it says it's Bourns PEC11-series (there's no marking on the encoders itself). Problem is they're not so good as I would want them to be.. In fact I just killed one by simply tightening the nut, which ripped out the shaft and can't be repaired. I'm sure I didn't over-tighten (it was in acrylics frontplate, the acrylics would break first). Maybe I just had a dodgy one, the others didn't cause any trouble so far. Fact is I'm pretty much screwed now: I've been stupid not to order any spares :( If anyone has some leftover, could I please buy them? Preferably a bit more than one to be sure. If anyone could add the exact part number for them on the wikipage, that would help too :blush: I removed the detents from all of mine, except 3 which will be used for menu control. I'm ordering from farnell this month, in case someone knows of a comparable type there.. I could use a comparable type for the 3 in the menu, important is a D-shaft because otherwise my buttons wont fit. Thanks.

unless you're using very dirty acidic stuff, just the regular way of cleaning will do that (copper brush, ...)

i got fluxclene and it works great word of caution: it kills certain trimpots.. solder trimpots after cleaning!!

Ok deze zal dicht mogen, ik vul mijn order wel met andere spullen :thumbsup:

Goed, is al iemand bij.. De teller staat op 180 van de minimum 246 switches Nog minimum 66 switches to go voor gratis verzending.. geïntresseerden gelieve asap iets melden in deze topic :w00t:

ALPS SKHHDTA010, high-quality tact switches, niet te vergelijken met goedkopere varianten. wil deze gaan bestellen bij Mouser en verzenden is gratis vanaf 75 euro http://be.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SKHHDTA010virtualkey68800000virtualkey688-SKHHDT ze kosten € 0,306 / stuk Ik heb er zelf 150 nodig, das al 45,90 euro. idealiter komen er nog 100 bij, vanaf dan is het verzenden gratis (20 euro in the pocket) Dus als iemand uit BE of NL 50 of 100 van die switches nodig heeft, laat even vlug weten.. Switches op te halen aan de Belgische kust of voor kleine meerprijs opgestuurd. All prices include duty and customs fees on select shipping methods. Free shipping on most orders over € 75 (EUR) Er zit wel haast achter dus gelieve nog voor het eind van deze week aan te melden. GO GO GO ! :D