jojjelito
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Posts posted by jojjelito
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Well done! This was some choice lounge house for those lazy summer days! Cool and minimal
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Phew!
Dude, be very careful with 230V (or 240V or 115V for those living an ocean away)!
Always measure first! Add fuses when in doubt.
Take care and good luck!
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Yummy! A whole rack full of goodness
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Ouch! I need to get moar gear!
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I'm partly with Mr Hawkeye here. I love editing some of my complicated synths on the iPad as it still beats the menu plus real tine LCD, but sometimes I long for tactile buttons. Sometime far off in the future I'll build a controller for the FS1r with real knobs... It will be the size of Antarctica but that's life!
Some concerts these days become more of glorified DJ performances. That's a bit odd, but as long as the main thing here is performance it can be good.
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Done! Hope you'll end up with useful data :)
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Already made my preliminary sign-up a few posts back. However, I have some feelers with someone in Germany (not on this forum) but he might not be up for a bulk for everybody and their uncle. Have to see
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Happy b-day Wilba! :rofl:
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You want a 6mm D-shaft knob.
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That's a nice way of using the SIDs! No other synth sounds quite like it :thumbsup:
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Trippy and now featuring nice video processing. A nice way to wind down after a work week I'd rather forget :frantics:
Nicely done! I like how the FS1r doesn't do typical FM-sounds.
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You might want to check the tread It's a giant MIDIbox based controller using the PCA9635 I2C controller which has 16 channels of PWM. Each chip can control 5 fully independent RGB LEDs. You can then group them and use external LED driver transistors if you need lots of current or don't need a gazillion fully independent LEDs.
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Caps is just short for capacitors.
Some switchers are switching at a low frequency like 60kHz or even less. Sometimes even with large ripple. This is not good as noise can enter the audio band if you don't know how to decouple things. A higher frequency switcher is no problem.
But, given that you might need +/-15V if you also use analog gear, and also that 15V is more common, there's always the option of using a small regulator to take 15V down to 12V. Those 12V are only used for the Aout that needs 100mA or less,
The MB-SEQ uses 5V, but more current. I would assume max 500mA if you count the backlights for displays plus lots of LEDs which are PWM:ed but still... It probably needs 200mA but it's good to have some margin. I don't know how much the BLM needs, maybe someone has made some measurements?
Any PSU that provides +-12V and +5V is good if you can find a nice one.
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If you find a quiet enough switcher you can easily make +/-12V from +/-15V with a couple of regulators. You can even use them in a small transistor package instead of a full TO-220 since no big amount of power is necessary :sorcerer:
Cheers!
J
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Congrats you crazy "Norrbagge"!
Good thing on ditching the smoking (except for the occasional Dutch, green and mild cig) and good on you to start an exercise regiment. I had to halt the MMA thing this last fall due to high blood pressure, but an occasional trip to the gym plus cutting down on sugar I don't need will take me some ways. You don't need to go the full LCHF way if you move around some :thumbsup:
No moar back ache (except for when I changed the winter-tyres to the normal low-profile summer tyres) plus a less stressful lifestyle also helps!
Keep fighting the good fight and stay off sugar!
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My 2 cents as I'm using the AOUT_NG connected to my MB-SEQv4 in my modular: You can never have too many CV out channels!
It was easy peasy soldering the TLV chip. I wouldn't like fewer bits for my pitch CVs, and the MAX525 is expensive, plus the shunt required is a component sourcing headache I don't need. I fail to see any valid reason to go with a lesser solution than the NG, and the MBHP_AOUT is expensive and harder to source for a marginal improvement.
I got my AOUT_NG in the kit form from Smash-TV so I avoided any sourcing. That said, there's nothing strange in there so it should be smooth sailing no matter what.
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Pondering the final version, but I'll most likely move some shift registers off-board, place them in the 9090 in order to get a compact, detachable seq panel with as few cables as possible running back to the 9099... Prophet-3000 stylee
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Glühwürmchen (glow-worms) on screen :thumbsup:
People need waveform displays.
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Nice and old-school chiptune-esque! Well done :smile:
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RIP Jack Tramiel and thanks!
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Ha! I'd buy that fragrance after thinking about it for a New York minute! :thumbsup: I used to call that sweet smell of groving up "Japanese factory air". Had a Dx100 and a RZ-1 that smelled like hideous plastics way back...
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I added one of those badboy OLEDs to my last Digi-key order, plus a white 16x2 OLED from Reichelt and some of those x4050 buffers. Guess there will be some experimentation with that and those Core LPCs laters :whistle:
FS1r programmer or this MB3396 look like the targets in line. Unless we get an MB-SIDv3 soon.
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OMG! Bliss!
If I hadn't already eaten the chocolate easter bunny at work I'd send some
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Aswered yesterday. I thought the topic of the study itself is fascinating so I felt obliged to help out :thumbsup: Good luck with your thesis!
Fleamarket and Bank Transfers
in Miscellaneous
Posted · Edited by jojjelito
Tank God Sweden doesn't have the Euro or US Dollar. All those coins could have stayed in the 17th century
However, this means that a bank transfer to the Eurozone costs something like 10-30SEK. By law it can't cost more, but the sheer inconvenience! You have to know routing codes, the address of the recipient's bank and correctly write down numbers which are longer than will fit on a 2TB HDD.
I'll take PayPal, Payson (local Swedish variant with escrow) or Google checkout any day! Plus most companies take this convenient invention called a card. Welcome to the 1970's! The transfer method is too cumbersome, so I'll just take my business elsewhere. Life is too short...