orange_hand

Hi Guys, let's improve Retro Donald's design and create a layout that can be professionally produced. I have already downloaded the Eagle software and I think the free version will do the job. Cheers orange

Hi, I would also appreciate if somebody could come up with a standard design that works as a replacement for the original C64 PSU. I have ordered a kit which is used in connection with a PC PSU, but I don't expect this to be a great solution. I think it shouldn't be too difficult to optimize Retro Donald's design in order to remove the remaining noise and to protect the 5V voltage regulator. We could then develop a circuit board that could be used as a basis. Unfortunately I am not an electrician, otherwise I would have already done it. Cheers orange

Hi Guys, I want to replace the capacitors in the PSU’s of my TR 808’s and I wonder which manufacturers you can recommend. I would like to replace them with high quality capacitors for a long life … Any recommendations are welcome ! Cheers orange

Hi, yes I know the PSU's are not reliable and the next thing I will do is to build a custom PSU, like Peter's :-) I wonder why nobody has started yet to produce some PCB's for that ... Cheers orange

Thanks Peter, I think I will pull out my base board over the weekend and check the pins. I hope that both are supported. Is there a difference between these PSU's regarding the reliability and life time ? Cheers orange

Hi Guys, I recently bought two additional C64 PSU's for backup purposes :-). For my MB6582 I use the old PSU version, but now as I have got one of the newer versions I have got some questions. I have realized that the pins of the plug of the newer PSU version is differnt to the old version. Please find attached the overview: I wonder if the MB6582 SID V2 board takes this into consideration and would like to know if I can run the MB6582 with the new PSU version as well ... Cheers orange

Hi, and today, I found the original screws again :-) Cheers orange

Hi, Yesterday I received the screws mentioned above and they fit very well :-) Cheers orange

Hi, so all of them are from different production dates... Check them out, maybe there is not much of a difference ... let your ears decide. And you should keep in mind - some of us are hearing the grass growing :-) Cheers orange

Hi, it is always a good thing to use pairs of matching production dates. Difficult to manage if you purchase SID's from different sources. Below the type number (6581 or 8580/6582) there is a 4 digit production date. These numbers should match for each SID pair, in order to get a consistent stereo sound :-) But anyway, it is not the end of the world if they don't match. Before you switch on the power on your MB6582, I would also recommend to check the voltage jumper for each SID pair after you installed the SID's. Wrong amount of voltage could damage the SID's ... Cheers orange

Hi Guys, I think I will simply stick to the white knobs instead. I don't want to spent the effort to solder the SMD LED's together.... It looks great, but this is really too much effort for me. Cheers orange

Thanks for the explanation ! The spacing of 5mm is correct. Cheers orange

Hi, I have almost completed my green control surface for the MB6582 and I am looking for some green ALBS "waldorf" style knobs. I would be able to swap against white or transparent ALBS knobs. Cheers orange

Hi, I am just wondering what I can use as a replacement for the 100nF monolithic capacitor C8_SIDx / C28_SIDx on the MB6582 base PCB which are coming with the kit from SmashTV ? I could not find exactly the same ones at reichelt.de but I found the following ones: http://www.reichelt.de/Vielschicht-bedrahtet-Z5U-20-/Z5U-5-100N/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=2;ARTICLE=22986;GROUPID=3163;SID=25gLacoawQARkAACfNJzoa98287c018bb62c4f0e328e8b2424f6b a) Is this one the right one ? b) Does this capacitor have an influence on the sound ? Cheers Matt

@Altitude Thanks for the information. Any idea where to buy these screws ? I found the following: http://www.gewinde-normen.de/unc-gewinde.html Are these ones are the right ones ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40-x-Plated-Steel-Pan-Head-Screws-4-40UNC-A217-A16-/140556821663?pt=UK_CPV_Aviation_SM&hash=item20b9d6e49f Cheers orange

Hi, unfortunately I have lost a set of screws for my PacTec PT-10 enclosure. I need the screws that close the case. http://de.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=Z9cUvWiPQVClPaLgeq0TiA%3D%3D I tried several other screws in my portfolio but none of them fits. The ones for the Pac Tec PT-10 have a different thread. Maybe somebody has an old case which is not used any more and could sell me the 4 screws. Any help is appreciated. Cheers orange

Hi, the one on the right hand side looks quite ok. I think it is easier to use a milling machine and produce the window from one single piece instead of gluing things together .... Cheers orange

Hi, I will try this next time :-) Thanks for sharing ! Cheers orange

Hi, I don't think so. The volume of the presets I use is set to 127. They are all loud :-) Cheers orange

Na siehste, geht doch :-) Freut mich, das Du den Fehler gefunden hast.... Grüße orange

Hi, I gonna take 2 windows, once available :-) Thanks orange

yes, show us the real thing :-) cheers orange

When I finally tried to install the encoders I figured out that there is one hex nut which is too close to the encoder. The front panel wouldn't fit, so I decided to file some material off from the hex nut. When I did that I expected to break off the hex nut, but then I realized that the JD Weld is so terribly strong. Finally the switches. I have realised that the Alps switches doesn't have the same quality. There are some with a lose shaft, others have a slightly shorter shaft. So I would recommend to check them before you solder them on the PCB. Especially when there is a row of switches where one or two are slightly smaller, you will see it immediately. Here is a picture of my MB6582: I still have to complete the additional 3 feedback pots, but I am not sure if I will go for the "audio in" option ... Maybe 2 feedback pots and 2 audio in jacks... I wish everybody good luck with the box, it is a great project. Cheers orange

While I was waiting for some additional parts I tried different variations to connect the display to the base board. They all worked great but unfortunately they took to much space, so that I would not recommend these variations: Here are some pictures of my power LED: Here you can see the preparation of the front panel. I have used sand paper as recommended to prepare the spots where the hex nuts will be glued on:

Hi Guys, first of all I would like to thank Hawkeye for the great tutorial. I can say that this was one of the great motivation factors to build the MB6582. I haven't done everything as stated in his tutorial and I think it makes sense to share some of my experience with the community. I used the following custom made acrylic windows for the display. I think a window to cover and protect the display gives the box an additional professional finish. I have used a slightly different set of screws. To fix the control surface PCB to the front panel I used the screws with the black rubber washers. I also used different screws to fix the front panel as the hole was not drilled for countersunk screws. Here I have attached a picture how I fixed my front panel and the control surface pcb: As I haven't had hot glue and I didn't want to use my preferred gum, I have filled the hex nuts with silicone which worked fine.