MIDIbox Forum: MIDIbox of the Week (MIDIbox SID of Majo) - MIDIbox Forum

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MIDIbox of the Week (MIDIbox SID of Majo) Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   TK. 

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Posted 20 June 2004 - 14:18

The MIDIbox SID in a C64-II case from Majo.

It's especially interesting how he has mounted the encoders/leds/buttons:

Posted Image
Posted Image
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http://www.midibox.o...ry/michele5.jpg
http://www.midibox.o...ry/michele6.jpg
http://www.midibox.o...ry/michele7.jpg
http://www.midibox.o...ry/michele8.jpg
http://www.midibox.o...ry/michele9.jpg
http://www.midibox.o...y/michele10.jpg
http://www.midibox.o...y/michele11.jpg


#2 User is offline   Twin-X 

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Posted 23 June 2004 - 01:39

looking good! Nice psu as well!

Well done.

#3 User is offline   LO 

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Posted 23 June 2004 - 13:09

Go the hot glue gun!  :o

Front panel looks good!

#4 User is offline   doc 

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Posted 23 June 2004 - 15:40

I didn't make good experiences with the glue gun.
The glue didn't glue very well on Aluminium or metal.
If you pull the fixed part you have it back in your hand again ....

Perhaps there are other glue sticks that fits better. Do you know one ?

greets

Doc

#5 User is offline   pay_c 

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Posted 25 June 2004 - 15:06

I used two-compound glue for my stuff. If you sand both
sides (e.g. alu on alu) it holds like hell! Really good stuff!! I
used it even for making little alu-90°-angles on the top cover
for screwing it to the side covers! All are holding up to today!
(you are more likely to bend the alu than to get it off again)

#6 User is offline   seppoman 

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Posted 25 June 2004 - 17:30

Hi,

here´s another hint for cables:

Last summer I did an internship at Diezel (guitar amps), there we used a combination of "fast glue" (ger. Sekundenkleber - Pattex/Loctite/...) and a heat gun to attach cables to metal.

These (not two component) "fast glues" normally are not too good on metal. You´ve got to glue the cable to the metal, press the cable to the metal firmly and then point a heat gun (or strong hair dryer) onto the back side of the metal. Then pull away both finger and heat gun short before you´d burn your finger :) . The heat makes the glue hold much better.

It´s probably a good idea to do this in front of an open window. The buttons etc. should not be fitted yet to prevent melting/frying any components. And of cause this method is not viable for plastic on plastic and a bit dangerous when the panel is finished with car laquer (bubbles..). Powder finish (schaeffer) should be less dangerous.

Another good idea is to fit open "Kabelbinder" (no idea what the english word is, these white plastic strips you can pull close around cables to tie them togeter) to the empty panel with this method, so you can afterwards fit the switches/encoders etc., connect them and use the "Kabelbinders" to attach the cables at last.

regards,

Seppoman

#7 User is offline   arumblack 

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Posted 25 June 2004 - 19:05

"Kabelbinder" = Cable Tie in English, and god bless who ever invented them!

#8 User is offline   ganchan 

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 11:14

How to realize the Front Panel like Mojo did by yourself:

1) Print on sticker's Polyester paper by inkjet printer the Panel image.
2) Gule it on a trasparent Polycarbonate (not plexyglass), pay attenction to not leave air bubble.
3) Than glue on a sticker trasparent Film for cold millwork (i don't know the exact term), pay attenction to not leave air bubble too. May you use a roller to lay flat.
4) Now you can drill your hole on the panel how you prefer and cut the LCD hole with a cutter.
That's all.
Translate by 'very poor english ganchan dictionary'.
  ;D

#9 User is offline   stryd_one 

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 19:20

Thanks Ganchan! I was going to try this method because I have access to excellent printers but I was wary of wasting paper and ink....


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