Wilba Posted August 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 yeah the LEDs stand quite high off the PCB (the gap is 10mm remember?) so you could mount them flat (not poking through at all). I personally like them to be as far out as the switches, so you can see a dome but it's not poking out further than the switches, which would look strange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted August 6, 2007 Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 This is where Limor had the x0x ones done:http://www.salemmetal.com/I'll get an RFQ out today and see what they charge but FPE may be the way go in the endDid you tolerance the dims on your print by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 Did you tolerance the dims on your print by any chance?Did I what the what on the what? ;DThere are no tolerances on anything. Never needed to before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted August 6, 2007 Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 hehe, sorry, I forget not everyone lives in a shop like me. I'll take care of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin-X Posted August 6, 2007 Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 Yep FPE sounds like the way to go mate... Unless something better comes along.Yes we still await my qoute. So do not do fpe yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Ok, Got my quote back from salem:Hi Raph,Thank you for the opportunity to quote on this project. Pricing is based on drawings/information available at this time. 50pcs #MB-6582 Rear @ $10.65ea100pcs @ $9.05eaEngineering Charge @ $45.00Manufacture Artwork & Screen @ $120.00Delivery: 3-4 weeks ARO 50pcs #MB-6582 Front @ $15.50ea100pcs @ $13.15eaEngineering Charge @ $65.00Manufacture Artwork & Screen @ $150.00Delivery: 3-4 weeks ARO Items Quoted as a Package..060 THK 5052-H32 Aluminum w/ Black AnodizeSo that works out to be:Rear Panel with Silk Screen 50 pcs: $13.95 100 pcs: $10.70Front Panel with Silk Screen 50 pcs: $19.80 100 pcs: $15.30Someone still want to tell me that FPE is a good deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 That's the sort of quote I was hoping to offer ;DAltitude: are you willing to arrange a bulk order? We won't get to 100pcs but 50pcs is still an excellent price.I will try to get the design files finalized before Friday (increase LCD hole, minor fixes to the artwork).After much contemplation, I would like to revert back to the "simple" artwork that is on my original panels... i.e. just very simple text and lines, very similar font to the engraved panels. The more I try to change the artwork to take advantage of silkscreen, the more I start to not like it for some reason. I am assuming when people wanted to join in the panel order they were expecting to get panels just like the original ones, so I will try to please them (and myself) by making the silkscreen look as much like the original panels as possible.I am sure there would be 50 people who agree with this, and we could go ahead with a bulk order.I would still like to wait for the quote that Twin-X is waiting on, just for comparison, unless he decides there's no point waiting... ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin-X Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 @Altitude Is the price including the metal?I hope to get the quote within a few hours now.Altitudes price is amazingly low btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.jamin da Bass Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Hi Everyone,For what it's worth, for that kind of pricing (< $50 for both panels), I would be extremely flexible about the panel art work or it's composition.;D I do, however, really like the .pdf panel sample posted earlier in this thread by Wilba. Just my 2 cents.-bP.S. I don't know about everyone else, but I'm really excited about this project! I've already stripped a few SID chips from old, non-working C64s and can't wait to fire up the old soldering iron.P.P.S. But please enjoy and take your time with your vacation, Wilba. Don't work so hard the week before that you spend your vacation merely recuperating. We'll all wait for you to get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin-X Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Just got mail!He cannot beat the price!And the dollar is much lower than the euro!So go for altidude's offer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Ok, i'm in then!FWIW, I really liked the second version artwork with the white-on-black. I thought that was very cool, but I like the look of the original too, so ..whatever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 yeah the LEDs stand quite high off the PCB (the gap is 10mm remember?) so you could mount them flat (not poking through at all). I personally like them to be as far out as the switches, so you can see a dome but it's not poking out further than the switches, which would look strange.I'll experiment with light pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Or you could get diffuse LED's and sand the tops down level with the control surface. Pretty easy and effective if you ask me, though I prefer the oldskool look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 You can get 3mm cylindrical LEDs, these would be flat at the top but still have enough plastic above the actual diode to diffuse the light. If you file the dome off a 3mm round LED, it doesn't diffuse anymore, you see a bright spot in the centre.One cheap method of a diffuser/light pipe would be to put masking tape on the front of the panel and then filling LED holes with epoxy or a silicone gap filler. I think Sasha did a trick like this for illuminated panel holes, search the forum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 Wow that's really cheap! Can someone remind me why we don't always use that guy? :) I assume we already know that the end product is good quality? It would be risky to buy 100 panels if we've never seen one...Well I'm guessing the screening wouldn't be much extra to do Wilba's fancy new labelling? Seeing as everyone is so keen on it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 well Limor has been using Salem for 300+ x0xb0xs (including mine) so I think they check out fineand I am also feeling the alternate artwork btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 Sometime after this project is done, I'd like to get a group buy going for some MBFM front panels. I have almost everything done for that except the chassis. With prices like that... Whee!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebula Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 I'm all for the less expensive version even if it's slightly less durable.BTW can somebody post links or something to the diferent versions of the artwork? I see Wilba's two MB-6582 Wiki pages which look very similar (albeit not the same) ... is that what you're talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 well Limor has been using Salem for 300+ x0xb0xsExcellent :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrBunsen Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 OK, at those prices you can count me in for one of each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 What I call the "simple" artwork:This one is a straight print-out of the Front Panel Designer artwork (i.e. like my original panel):http://members.optusnet.com.au/~wilba6581/mb-6582/MB-6582_frontpanel.pdfWhat I call the "alternate" artwork (recently updated):http://members.optusnet.com.au/~wilba6581/mb-6582/MB-6582_frontpanel_alternate.pdfThe font and font size needs tweaking, it's not as narrow as the original, which means the white backgrounds of "group" labels have to be bigger to compensate - a little bigger than the LEDs they are grouping which annoys me. I would like to tweak it a little.I propose a quick poll of people's opinions ("simple" vs. "alternate") and any suggestions for improvement are welcome, but this won't degenerate into design-by-committee. Ultimately I will let the person running the bulk order decide what version they want to use, get the numbers together and do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 Sometime after this project is done, I'd like to get a group buy going for some MBFM front panels. I have almost everything done for that except the chassis. With prices like that... Whee!!!I have contemplated doing just a control surface PCB and panels for MBFM... using the PT-10 case, and putting in a Core and OPL3 module inside the case and using panel-mount sockets on the rearpanel.That project is 2nd on my list though... next on the list is an MB-SEQ V3 control panel/PCB combo using the same construction method as the MB-6582. That design will be suitable for a 19" rack case or a desktop version like the P3 with wood endcheeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 Good boy! Looks like i'll be saving up to build one of those too then ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthernLightX Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 I have contemplated doing just a control surface PCB and panels for MBFM... using the PT-10 case, and putting in a Core and OPL3 module inside the case and using panel-mount sockets on the rearpanel.That project is 2nd on my list though... next on the list is an MB-SEQ V3 control panel/PCB combo using the same construction method as the MB-6582. That design will be suitable for a 19" rack case or a desktop version like the P3 with wood endcheeks. I would very much like a control surface PCB and panel for the FM, but for a 2U rack rather than another PT-10 case.Cheers, Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 I have contemplated doing just a control surface PCB and panels for MBFM... using the PT-10 case, and putting in a Core and OPL3 module inside the case and using panel-mount sockets on the rearpanel.That project is 2nd on my list though... next on the list is an MB-SEQ V3 control panel/PCB combo using the same construction method as the MB-6582. That design will be suitable for a 19" rack case or a desktop version like the P3 with wood endcheeks. I love u :-* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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