My MB-6582 and a question

[TheAncientOne]

thanks guys

RS seems only working in the UK.  >:(

How about:

http://www.radiospares.fr/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/home.do?cacheID=f1netscape&returningUser=N

They have them: the part number is  479-1457

use the search facility with this number and 'code commande' as the search type.

Looks like 2.89 Euro for 20, unless I've read it wrong.

Best wishes

Mike

Edited to reflect that Wilba is quoting overall height, not button length as I originally thought.

I've just got a packet of 17mm overall height buttons(!).

[julienvoirin]

thanks  a lot Prof !

i will try it

[julienvoirin]

some inner photos can be useful :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilba/408737117/in/photostream/

now i better understand the 10 mm gap, it is a cause des entretoises !!!

i think that this link explain all the question we could have relative to constructing.

[Wilba]

Yes, when I finally get my panels, I will be taking more photos like this.

[julienvoirin]

I have a question about "cloning the app"  :

core0 is controlling two 6581

core1 is controlling two 8580

core3 is controlling two 6582

Do i have to simply upload the setup_6581.hex to core0 and then the mios clones and understand that the chips are different on each core or is it more subtle ?

of course, each core has a different ID (00, 01, 02)

[TK.]

Hi Julien,

no problem - the only difference between 6581 and 8580/6582 is the filter calibration range - you can edit this manually within the ensemble for each SID seperately. Recommented range for 6581: 000-FFF, for 8580/6582: 000-600

An auto detection is not possible

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[julienvoirin]

thanks Thorsten !

if I well understand i have to upload the app on each core (by moving the jumper with the MB6582 base part) with the appropriated configured application. In this case the cloning function is not applicable (??)

[Wilba]

I would suggest you upload setup_mb6582.hex to each Core (with cloning) as this contains the correct setup for the MB-6582 control surface. Then for each ensemble you use, change the filter range to 000-FFF for the SID channels with 6581.

Remember, the only difference is in the default filter range, afterwards it is stored in the ensemble.

This will be a lot easier, since you can use "upload and clone" method for future releases and the ensemble will remain unchanged (i.e. the SID channel with 6581 will still have a different range).

The alternative is to recompile setup_mb6582.hex with a default filter range of 000-FFF, but then I believe this would make all the ensembles have this range, even for the other SID channels, and then maybe only if you install a blank BankStick in bank 8, I don't think it changes any existing ensembles.

[julienvoirin]

well i have once again crucial questions :

1- considering the picture of Narwhal, how do you do to put a display with a height of 10 mm in contact with the panel ? i have bought this display, the one recommended in the wiki as surface control partlist and done all the assembly, not yet jb weld. Moreover, i have soldered all the switches , and a good alternatvie would have been to put smaller ones and grind the encoders..

just to understand :

spacers = 10mm

but display screwed to the CS PCB has only a height of 5/6mm (10mm -- PCB thickness which is 2mm -- soldering blurb of the alps tact switches which makes 2mm == 6mm). So there are 4mm missing ! that's a big hole. I've been thinking to put a piece of glass or plexiglas in order to reach the down face of the panel but it isn't aesthetical.

2- relative to the 4 screws jb-welded in the 4 corner of the panel : how do you do to fix them to the pactec ???? if you let them like this, when you'll shake the box, panel will move.

I wonder if i shouldn't drill the panel...

Any good trick welcome.

Cheers

[Wilba]

1. There will be a gap of 2.5mm for standard sized LCDs mounted behind the CS PCB, as discussed in lengthy detail on the forum when discussing the design changes I made to accommodate LCDs, since my original MB-6582 used a now-discontinued PLED display which I mounted in between the panel and PCB.

2. That's what the corner screws are for... you use nuts to hold the panel to the PT-10 case before you mount the PCB.

[Narwhal]

I'm having a hard time posting 3 pictures here in one posts, so I'm going to post 3 times.

Here is a picture of my completed MB-6582.

[Narwhal]

JB Welding in progress.  I seriously doubt this is a picture of the final set of screws since several times the dried screws would pop right off the panel.  Some places the screws were glued/welded rock solid, and in other places I re-glued them 3 or 4 times.  The slow drying/normal JB-weld did seem to work better, but I do have more than a few screws that are held quite strong with the fast drying JB-weld.  Even a few of the slow drying ones popped right off.  There didn't seem to be any one thing I could blame for either one working or not working.  I sanded, scraped up, and cleaned the troubled areas with alcohol and as the last resort used the slow drying JB-weld and eventually every screw I wanted was mounted with extreme strength.

The amount of times I took the panel on and off forced me to bevel the underside of all the LED holes because it was getting too hard to deal with all my flat top leds fitting back into the holes.  I dont recommend this process unless you have a drill press and a lot of patience.  Too much pressure, and too much heat and the panel WILL warp.  My LED's are now mostly mounted flush with the top surface of the panel and I can easily remove the panel and remount it without too much hassle getting all of the LED sit back in their holes.  They all have conical holes they sit in now and I kept the bevel away from the top surface so you really can't see that they've been beveled on the backside.

[Narwhal]

This last picture show my LCD area from the outside.  Also note the letter "L" that litterally fell off the panel a few minutes after it arrived in the mail :-(

If anyone wants to see anything in greater detail let me know and I'll snap a picture for ya.

[suital]

Looks good, especially the black/white knobs look awesome on this box.

[Jaicen]

Looks like some really nice work Narwhal!

Not best pleased with the silkscreening though eh??

How about we get some sound samples up!!!

[Narwhal]

Here is a really cheesy video of me playing with the synth.  Using the play button to audition patches while a drum loop plays.

vYf1iaxbthg

I originally set out to just record audio, but wound up working on a song.

[Wilba]

Congratulations Narwhal! It's great to see it in action!

BTW, I'm not being critical of how you put yours together, but just to clarify to everyone else, what I meant by "threaded spacers" are things that look like this:

so you use a screw to attach the PCB to these (which are glued to the panel).

[Narwhal]

more good info for the builders out there:

I just happened to have a few 10mm spacers with the screws sticking out of them lying around (probably from years of building PC's).  Once I started to use them I realized the benefit of having the screw there.

Using screws and threaded screw spacers makes a lot of sense because once you have about 3 located, dried, and matching to the circuit board, you can use the circuit board for alignment of the later screws.  Let them dry while resting in the hole that they will later be fastening and you guarantee alignment.

Since the threaded screw seems to help out with alignment and I ran out of 10mm spacers, I decided to improvise midway through using flat top angle head screws with a nut JB-welded at the 10mm height.  For fastening the nut at the 10mm height you can definitely use the quick drying JB-weld without any problems.  I used a sliding depth gauge.

The only thing you want to keep in mind is the size of the nut that will screw onto the spacer or screw.  It probably wouldn't be good if they touched nearby trace thru-holes.

[julienvoirin]

the spacers also exist with screw at one extremity : use nuts in this case (M3).

I tested the bassline 1 & 2 patches yesterday with stereo : What a Fuck !!!!!!! but a drummachine behind and your are the new Daft Punk ! It is really much better than sid v1.7 with 6581. TK has won a lot of "this DIY project rocks!" from me and I still wonder if he will present it at NAMM ?!

Cheers

[ganchan]

Here is a really cheesy video of me playing with the synth.  Using the play button to audition patches while a drum loop plays.

vYf1iaxbthg

I originally set out to just record audio, but wound up working on a song.

ehy narwal, i see the orange monster in your rack!  8)