Steven_C

Why don't you tell us what you want, and where you are located? Remember that this is a not for profit project, so maybe it is better if you find a friend who is electronic literate who can help you. I guess there is nothing wrong in hiring someone's services to put it together for you though. Have you seen the links to Mike's kits for these projects?

If you are using a resolution of 1024*768 or higher, don't go for those cheap passive boxes with a switch! They can't handle the bandwidth!! (well at least the one I tried couldn't) maybe try one if you can return it if it isn't good enough. I bought one, and two monitor extension cords and the screen was way too blurry! (I have room for only one monitor, for two PC's) I made a much better monitor extension cable for free!! ;D I removed the monitor cable from a malfunctioning monitor, and added another D connector to the other end and it worked way better than the bought one!! 8) bye, from Steve

You probably will want to go for the Midibox64SEQ. The application (sequencer firmware) is burnt into the PIC chip. The Bankstick is used for storing setups/configurations (sequences) for the sequencer. If you want to make a fully customizable sequencer, you need to get into programming, you burn the 'bootstrap' (OS) into the PIC, and then write an application in MIOS(or download one that has already been written) and stick it into the PIC over midi. I think you will want to go for the Midibox64SEQ, nice and easy!! Well I hope all that is correct!! :o bye from steve

Yeah! I was kinda thinking that when I posted that! I guess its a learned skill, not really for everyone!! Yeah, its called a nibbling tool, I think a good brand is Adel, but they are expensive, I think! But I think your hand/wrist would be pretty sore after doing 1 or two slots! Maybe a better solution is for one of us to get heaps of modular type panels laser cut.... just a small panel for 8 faders.... if you want 16 faders, you buy 2 panels, which would screw to a front panel, with a big hole cut out by jigsaw... or just screw onto a frame.... then think about how many hobbyists worldwide who would want to avoid cutting slots would want to buy them from you!! And they could be posted in a large envelope, saving money.... an opportunity for someone with a buddy who works at a laser cutter?? I'm a fitter machinist by trade (not an invitation for anyone to ask me to mill slots for them!!!!) maybe I could go and get a job at a laser cutter so I can make free panels for everyone??? (just kidding!!!) bye from Steve

Thanks for those replies, it is appreciated. those data sheets are a bit mysterious to me! (I'm still have a great deal to learn before I feel confident with digital technology!) from Steve

Hi, I'm currently trying to figure this out as well! I think you only need one, but I'm not sure! see also this post...http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=concepts;action=display;num=1046695347 I'm going to make my own boards, so I'm going to make an extra core, just in case. I already have 2 18F452's, which is the expensive bit, so it isn't much extra cost, just to make sure. bye, from steve p.s. hopefully someone who has successfully built a standard logic control will soon make a walkthrough? To get us confused folk up to at least that level before proceeding? (I'm not trying to pressure anyone, as I already know that there are many helpful folk on this forum!)

:)thanks, lucky I have logic 5 then! (just thought others may want to know)

Hi, I cut the slots for my mb64 by drilling 3 small holes in a row, filing them into a slot with a small round file, and then fitting a jigsaw into this hole, and cutting two slits side by side, and finishing with a narrow flat file. It takes a lot of patience though. I still haven't finished the case, though! The front panel is still sitting on two blocks of wood(screwed onto) with all the electronics bolted to the bottom of the panel!! good luck all, from steve

Have a great vacation Thorsten!! I'm glad to hear you are having a break! You deserve it!! ;D "don't leave too many questions open!" .....we will try!! bye from Steve

Hi, FYI, According to the documentation I have for logic, you need logic 5 to be able to use logic control... could someone please correct me if this is wrong?? thanks, from Steve

anyone?? http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=MRE-1&type=store will it work?? why does it have so many output pins?? bye, from Steve

Hey Kent, Why not put jumpers in your PCB design, to allow reversal of the polarity? good luck with it! from Steve

Hey Shawn! It's good to hear you are having fun with electronics! Blowing up that LED must have been cool! Did you know that a measure of current is actually a reference to the number of electrons passing through a conductor? and voltage is a reference to the number of electrons waiting around at a 'potential source' that want to pass through a conductor (ie not moving, but waiting to move)? and these electrons (potential) can only move (from one pole to the other) when there is a conductor to pass through! So, current can only flow if there is a conductor to flow through! And the current will be of high value if the total resistance of the circuit is low, and the current will be lower if the resistance is higher. So when you think about it, if you want to measure current, the meter will need to be IN LINE of the circuit, to give a measurement of the number of ELECTRONS passing through a CIRCUIT over a given TIME PERIOD (like ......how many formula one cars go over the finish line in one second.....well sorta!) So, always measure current through a circuit by breaking the circuit, and placing the meter in series! BTW.... to measure voltage across a component, or circuit, or part of a circuit, put your meter across the component also, your LED burnt(!) out because the resistor was designed to limit the current (Poor conductor, not as many electrons pass through in a given amount of time), and an ammeter actually has its own resistance when it is placed in series with a circuit, which needs to be low (so it doesn't affect the circuit and give false readings)............and when you put it across the resistor, you effectively bypassed the resistor, and let the LED draw too much current, and it therefore blew up! ;D he he! you don't need to be sorry to me for asking too many questions!! can't you see I love raving on about this stuff!!! (unless it gets beyond my knowledge/experience!! ;))

Hey Dan, looks very interesting! I often wonder why features like this aren't implemented into audio software anyway!!! ??? But its nice that there are usually solutions for things! Looks like this demo may help me until I get my LC finished! thanks, from Steve

have you checked all connections, voltage on the supply pin of the chip etc?

Hi everybody! just wondering what software people are using with their midiboxes (and which 'box are you using) , and how well does it improve your workflow? I'm trying to decide which 'box(es) to build, and what software to get! (is logic ok for live multitrack recording of bands etc?) thanks, from Steve

Hi Ian! I have built a midibox 64, and haven't finished the box yet! but I can't use it because I have lent it to a friend! An excuse to finish my other half built 'box! :P I'm planning on building a logic control, but I have so many half built projects....even a half built midi studio! BTW, you can get 2*40 displays from oatley electronics in my hometown Sydney for Aus$25 each. Where are you getting the encoders from? which software do you use? I'd better go and work on some of my half finished assignments.....actually, they are all much less than half finished!! good luck, from Steve

Hi, Welcome to the Midibox community!! This is an open source, do it yourself non profit project, and I don't think Thorsten has the time to build this project for you for money or otherwise! :-[ do you have a friend who could help you build this project? :-/ If not, then go for the mackie control (same as logic control, but also works with cubase) or a generic midi controller (but obviously has limitations) I've heard that the mackie control dosen't integrate well with cubase though. any more questions? bye, from Steve

Hey Ian, Â I have had 2 SB live's and one SB awe64 running together without probs. The awe64 cost Aussie$27 Â .....Steve btw how's your box going? did you go for the midibox link option? another question... is it hard to get a standard midi controller mapped to logic's knobs?

3 Guests, 6 Users Steven_C, Xanboroon, Captain Hastings, LO, joad, tripiale 9 users at once! that's the most I've seen! Hello guys! ;D

tee hee hee!!! ;) cool joke 8) like let me guess... that bridge is an old PC? ;D edit......oops..I didn't see this second page!

tee hee hee!!! ;) cool joke 8) like let me guess... that bridge is an old PC? ;D edit......oops..I didn't see this second page!

Hey sstandfast, I have had wierd problems programming data when I have failed to set all the configuration options correctly. Make sure you set ALL of the options up in accordance with Thorsten's How to program page, noting that it has been updated a few times, and may be different to when you last looked. Failing that, maybe you could post a request on this forum for someone nearby to you to check your chips are ok? good luck..... from Steve ;)

Hey sstandfast, I have had wierd problems programming data when I have failed to set all the configuration options correctly. Make sure you set ALL of the options up in accordance with Thorsten's How to program page, noting that it has been updated a few times, and may be different to when you last looked. Failing that, maybe you could post a request on this forum for someone nearby to you to check your chips are ok? good luck..... from Steve ;)

;D now I can print out pcb patterns for copying onto press/n/peel film, by switching the formatting options around in eagle light! yeah! ;D you better stop talking to myself Stephen, from yourself again!