stryd_one

I think I posted in someone else's thread saying I was going to get some, but I can't take credit for the find ;) That said, a number of people have used them and they do come recommended....and seeing them in that case....very nice.

Yeh when he says "cut" he means with a fine tooth saw....

I thought the same thing you know :) If enough end-users are interested, the software companies will support it. Your idea of getting the Open Source community to pioneer support for the protocol is excellent, because nobody but them will build the devices until things are stable. I encourage you to chase that one up. Totally, what a dirty SOB. A big "f*ck you" from me to you, Mr. Steinberg. What I want to know, is what makes these guys stop being musicians and engineers, and start being money hungry businessmen.

Get some practice then :) There are lots of SMD chips on those cards that you don't need, so it won't matter if you fry them. And $1 (the cost of the last of my many SB cards) isn't a big price to pay if you break one anyway :) Keep in mind that desoldering it from the SB card isn't that much harder than soldering it onto the MBFM board.... Otherwise, you can buy NOS OPL3 chips, but it's rare that anyone goes to the trouble, so you might have to wait a long time to get one :(

Niiiice :)

hehehehe Hope you enjoy it mate :) Sorry I was late!!

Oh the packaging is perfect, I was just joking about :) Yeh, like why is it called a pair of pants? There's only one!

Thank you Rigo :)

Ohhhh yeh! I laughed my ass off at that, I've pictured it so many times in my head when I recieve a package ;) Hehehe we had a rack with about a million bucks in drive arrays turn up with a forklift stabwound last year.... All the way through!

Honestly? I think that if you're a newbie and having trouble following well documented procedures for a known-good solution, you'd be mad to start experimenting with it... especially when it comes to power... Maybe we can help with the c64 psu?

VMIDIJoy is an old friend of mine :) I'm glad to see it's still around! It will support a pair of joysticks with three axes and also all the buttons including the directional 'hat', definitely very cool in pairs, I still have my Sidewinder 3D Pro for just this purpose :)

Smash I hope you don't mind that I go public with this, but I've received my order in no time flat, and it's arrived in the best packaging and the best condition I've ever received anything in the mail. Do you bribe the couriers or what?! ;) If I had one complaint it would be that it's too well packed, I had to go and get a knife ;D (as opposed to some of the international shipping I've seen where you can sneeze on the box and it falls open) hehehehehe

OK now you're talking traktor-specific stuff, I don't play with software much, how does traktor support scratching? I don't think you quite understood what I was talking about.... You don't need to measure the speed difference between the platter and record... You already know what speed the platter is doing because you've set it there, so no need to measure that. You only need to measure the speed of the record. Think simple :)

I'm really interested in both of these topics. I was fortunate enough to obtain a number of rackmount blanking panels, the HP ones with that nice dark grey power coating, and I was thinking that they could make nice face panels if I only knew how to mill and screen them... I've milled timber before but never metal, and I've screenprinted before, but again, never on metal or powder coating, so I'm clueless.... If you guys feel like sharing any advice or links etc, it'd be really appreciated :)

No need to measure the speed of the turntable because that could (and should) be constant - like you said, that's what slipmats are for. This is an interesting concept and might just work. Of course you have to have software that supports skipping back or forward by a defined distance, do you have that? You don't need to send the offset between platter and disc (as mentioned above) but just how far the disk was moved... Of course then you have to decide what unit of measurement to use, as you could use time on disc or distance in degrees (which obvious differs depending on the needle position) or lord-knows-what. Then you have to think about what to do with acceleration... do you send a byte every x milliseconds to show how it moved, or do you send a byte showing the time taken between a given distance of measurement, or..... I'll let you think about this stuff and come back to us. Uhm, maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't real vinyl be easier and cheaper and sound better?

You know you can get them from soundcards yeh?

How would that differ from any other encoder attached to a turntable? Keep in mind that MIDI lacks the resolution to be of much use for turntablism.

Try taking the word "root" out of the path....

And the crowd goes wild!!! Less than 24 hours to go now people :D

Because ground loops are bad, mkay ;)

"Denglish" hahahah :) Thx for the vid TK!

No, just most of them :(

No offense taken mate :) The idea was never to make a $1 donation, I'm sorry if I caused confusion... The idea is to donate as much as you can! :) I mentioned the figure of $1 only to demonstrate that even if it was only a small donation, provided that lots of people made that small donation, it would amount to a very worthwhile sum of cash. That way, people would not hesitate if they could only afford a dollar or two. And to make something else clear, as per the thread you linked us to: People, donating does NOT earn you ANY extra entitlements to anything. Just a good feeling :)

Chomsky, you said you want 10-bit resolution but you don't know how to use it... I wonder, what are you actually trying to do here? What's your desired outcome? Maybe we can find an easy way :)

1) You haven't read the wiki have you? ;) That's a MIDI specification thing. I won't re-write the spec here, have a search mate. 2) CC's are 7-bit and RPN's are 14 bit, so I suspect that you won't actually be interested in that.